General slipjoint/folder questions

Steven,

Your enthusiasm is damn infectious. Email me at Minhduc(dot)phan(at)gmail(dot)com; I can get you the book.
 
Stacy, just wanted to take a moment to thank you for that list of tips- I've made a few linerlocks and lockbacks, but there's so much about slipjoints that's different. Working my way through my first one, and this is very helpful.
Andy G.

PS. If you see this, can you explain what you mean by, "be sure to put a shim in before you peen the pivot"- where does the shim go, between blade and frame to keep the joint from getting too tight?
Thanks!
 
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The shim should be a few thousandths thick. Most folks cut the shim stock with a "V" and slip it around the pivot...between the blade and the liner/frame. Then after you peen the pins tight, you pull out the shim. The blade should now have a few thousandths clearance to rotate freely. If it is a little sloppy, a tiny tap on the pin should take care of it.
If you just tried to peen the pivot without the shim, you will get it too tight almost every time.
 
Updating this thread. It has been a while, but I am finally getting started soon. I have a design, and getting it finished has brought up a few questions about the finer aspects. I have gone through Bruce Bump's Slipjoint WIP again, and read the book that MKP sent me about 4 times :D. I am now wondering about dimensions. Is there a general rule about spring width (between the spine and the tang) compared to blade width, width overall, length, or stock thickness? I got inspired by Mike Vagnino's Zip-Slip series and so it isn't exactly classical. This brings up a problem: what width should a spring be? I am using 3/32in 52100 stock.
 
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