Generating enough heat for HT

Sorry, Matt, I misread your post. I thought Satanite was like a thick clay sort of stuff, so I figured you put Satanite down first, then the kaowool over it. I found a coffe can forge that uses Durablanket (assume it's like Kaowool?) and Unifax QF-180 to coat it. ??
 
Chiro
what everyone is saying is use "Rigidizer" that is what the local shop call it it is like water thich and hold's the ceramic fiber in place . all you need to do is take a piece of Kao-wool soak the whole damn thing in rigidiser and put it inside the "Pipe " use a piece of scrap to close one end about 80% from the top down so you don't get back pressure . let the thing dry out for a day or two and your good to go.
 
I'm getting the impression that darren basically sells kits for these forges right? I'm interested... just one question - in wayne goddards books he gets along just find with the one brick forge... Would it be more efficient to use the one brick vs the coffee can? thanks!
 
Hi Chiro, I had to go out of town, I'm back and catching up on emails today. Basically a lineal foot of Inswool and two pounds of Satanite will do a coffee can forge. You might also want a firebrick or two to close down the opening to just what you need to get your blade in there. Go to the Forge gallery pages and have a look at the two-can coffee can forge that Terry Dodson built:

http://ForgeGallery.EllisCustomKnifeworks.com

:)

-Darren
 
I love my coffee can forge, i have built a few others, even a vertical using a homebuilt mini-sidearm venturi burner, made from 8" black stove pipe, lined with kaowool and coated that with satanite, the bottom is open and sits on firebrick so it will be easy to replace them if flux eats them up, works good. But i usually go back to my coffee can forge for most everything. Maybe if i start doing damascus or welding a lot i will use the verticle, but my little double coffee can one seems to do everything i need. I tried the one brick forge, but fond it too small for some of the things i wanted to do, i have even modified some hatched heads in my coffe can forge. My coffee can forge started out with a solid back, but for some of the longer knives (8-12" sharpened blade - not including the tang) i ended up cutting a triangle into the solid back, when not needing the thru hole i block it with a piece of kaowool coated in satanite that fits the hole to keep more heat inside the chamber. one thing that comes in handy on it is the small piece of pipe that the burner (the Bernzomatic with the flexible hose) fits into lets me slide it in and out to adjust the flame inside a little. I also got an adpter (about $13 from walmart or lowes) so i could use the 20lb bbq tanks, a lot cheaper than the little bottles.
 
Hmmm... Thanks, guys! This is definitely the next project. I'll just have to put up with the way I'm doing it now (open air heating with torch...blech!), sell a few, then upgrade and see if I can't do some real damage.
 
neosporin said:
I'm getting the impression that darren basically sells kits for these forges right? I'm interested... just one question - in wayne goddards books he gets along just find with the one brick forge... Would it be more efficient to use the one brick vs the coffee can? thanks!
Click to expand...


Both work well, and Wayne uses his to forge out big knives in too! That said, if you look at the technical specs of Soft Insulating Firebrick and Inswool, Inswool is a better Insulator, but it's really splitting hairs for a forge that small...either way would work well...the only advantage I can think of for a coffee can forge is that you can position the burner inlet such that the burner flame doesn't impinge directly on the blade...

:)

-Darren
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top