Get A Deep Even Black Patina On 1095 Carbon Steel

It doesn't effect the joint as long as you oil the joint after the procedure. As to the cover (stag, bone, etc.), don't get it on the covers. Since you are going to do this deliberately, use a Q-tip when working the fluid around the bolsters and be sure to follow the OP's directions.
 
Hey guys I'm trying this on my carbon steel Schrade stockman, something wiered is happening with the main clip point blade, only the end 3/4 of the blade are coloring, there is a very sharp cut-off above which won't color, I've made 2 attempts the last applying the apple cyder vinegar for ~20 minutes now and the end is very dark, the top part just will not color like its a different steel. The other 2 blades and the back/springs all color just fine, its just the part of the main blade giving me fits.
Prep work was very in depth, VERY good cleaning, Wiped down with alcohol, ~20 year natural patina sanded off.

I don't have photo hosting abilities but if someone takes interest I can email photos if someone can host them, or even just look at it and see if you know what's going on.
 
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I've also tried this to no avail. Im using Heinz vinegar, but it's not the "unfiltered" kind, dont know if it matters. I bring the vinegar to a rolling boil, as hot as can be steam everywhere stinking up the house type boil. And I keep the knife right by the pan so the vinegar is still hot as hell when i wipe it, and ill wipe over and over for 20 minutes.. Just a few random greyish sports and some orange discoloration. I cleaned the blade thoroughly with alcohol too and wore gloves. What gives?
 
What gives?

It makes no difference whether the vinegar is filtered or unfiltered. It is the acetic acid which discolors the knife.

Are you certain of the blade alloy?
 
I've also tried this to no avail. Im using Heinz vinegar, but it's not the "unfiltered" kind, dont know if it matters. I bring the vinegar to a rolling boil, as hot as can be steam everywhere stinking up the house type boil. And I keep the knife right by the pan so the vinegar is still hot as hell when i wipe it, and ill wipe over and over for 20 minutes.. Just a few random greyish sports and some orange discoloration. I cleaned the blade thoroughly with alcohol too and wore gloves. What gives?

Instead of just wiping the hot vinegar on the blade, try dipping the blade into the hot vinegar and WATCH IT CLOSELY. If it's 1095 steel, it'll start to BLACKEN very fast (in seconds); you might even see bubbles coming off the steel and rising to the top. Lift the blade out of the vinegar, and you'll see it continue to darken before your eyes, as the exposure to air accelerates the reaction. Might also see some red rust begin to form.

If the blade isn't 1095, but instead stainless (usually 440A on the older USA Schrades, if stainless), it won't discolor much, if at all, using the method above.

If you're boiling pure vinegar, be careful with the above. I used a mix of 1 part vinegar to 2 parts water, heated to ~180°F (used to de-scale my coffee maker first) when patinating my Schrade 8OT's clip blade. A weaker dilution, but still worked very fast, as I described; the heat is what really speeds it up. With pure vinegar, boiled and with no added water, it'll be much more aggressive.

If your blade does blacken and/or rust quickly, clean it up using a paste of baking soda and water, scrubbing until no red/brown/black discoloration is coming off the blade anymore. The baking soda will neutralize the acidic reaction (most important) and scrub off any loosely-bound oxide (red rust and some of the black). Then wash/rinse/dry everything thoroughly, and lube the joints.


David
 
Nice job! Did you boil it or just dip? I would like to hear how you did it thanks!
 
Nice job! Did you boil it or just dip? I would like to hear how you did it thanks!

Approximately a half cup or so of the lemon juice, and a quarter cup each of the vinegars. Microwaved for about 2 minutes, just shy of boiling, and dipped the blade for 15 minutes. Rinsed blade, and reheated the mix, and dipped again for about another 15 minutes, rinsed the blade again; wiped the blade down with Rusty's Rags oil, and she was done.:)
 
I've also tried this to no avail. Im using Heinz vinegar, but it's not the "unfiltered" kind, dont know if it matters. I bring the vinegar to a rolling boil, as hot as can be steam everywhere stinking up the house type boil. And I keep the knife right by the pan so the vinegar is still hot as hell when i wipe it, and ill wipe over and over for 20 minutes.. Just a few random greyish sports and some orange discoloration. I cleaned the blade thoroughly with alcohol too and wore gloves. What gives?

It's a Schrade schf9, definitely 1095 and performs like 1095.

Hadn't even occurred to me to consider it was something other than the typical Old Timer knives we see here, in 1095. That pattern number is one of the newer Taylor brand knives (Taiwan-made), and actually is spec'd as being 1095 steel. See below, for image and text quoted from product description on knifecenter's site:

SCHF9a.jpg


"Description
SCHF9: Extreme Survival
Schrade

This Schrade Extreme Survival fixed blade knife features a thick 6.4" 1095 high carbon steel full-tang blade with easy-to-grip Kraton handles (...)"

Looking at the higher-res pic on the knifecenter site, it almost looks like the blade is coated* with a textured finish (grey/black?). Reminds me of the black textured finish seen on large Kabar USMC and similar knives. If so, that may be why it's not responding, or barely, to patinating efforts. If it is coated, that will need to be sanded off first, before patinating will work.

( * = Coated blade apparently confirmed in another thread, linked and quoted below... )
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-Survival-Knife-SCHF9?p=11991453#post11991453
"(...) I started to strip it so that I can force a patina on it, and the coating has been a real pain to get off. I have rough sanded and soaked in Citri-strip for 24 hour, 2 separate times and the coating is still holding strong. I will have to sand and buff the coating off once I get some higher grit sandpaper(...)


David
 
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Hey Mr. Rick, I tried this the other day with generic publix brand Apple cider vinegar and I know you've said the Heinz is the preferred, but I got it up to a boil and dippped the cotton in and rubbed on the blade and repeated until all the vinegar had evaporated from my pan.... My results after ten or fifteen minutes was just a dull grey. Is there a trick to the temperature or something else? Maybe the knife wasn't clean enough? I didn't have any acetone so I just used dish soap to clean it...any help would be much appreciated....from anyone....thanks. The steel is either 1084 or 1075 also cause that is all I forge with.
 
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Thanks for the tips and photos! I'd definitely like to try this on one of my user knives. One question, though:

Does anybody know if a blade etch will still be visible after the forced patina or will the etch disappear?
 
Thanks for the tips and photos! I'd definitely like to try this on one of my user knives. One question, though:

Does anybody know if a blade etch will still be visible after the forced patina or will the etch disappear?

Probably depends on how deep the etch is, and how it was applied. Some knives' blade etches are essentially on the surface alone, and probably applied with means similar to how we 'patina' a blade, using some kind of acid. With those, it's possible the acid etch might be completely obscured or even removed by patinating it (seem to recall seeing posts about GEC's blade etches being removed this way). Deeper etches that can be felt as 'recesses' into the steel are much more durable, and the blade would likely have to be sanded/ground to the depth of the etch, to remove them.


David
 
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