Getting a Coote

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Jan 10, 2007
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I ran into a little money and I am planning on getting a Coote with it. So I was just wondering if you guys have any advice as far as set up, pulleys, accessories, etc. I am planning on getting the 10 inch contact wheel and then not spending a whole lot after that.

Allen
 
Allen, I've been using a coote along with another grinder for close to 10 yrs.I've been a full time maker for most of those yrs. so its been run a lot and its still as good as the first day I got it. I would suggest that you also order the 3 pulley set up for reducing speeds, and the small wheel attachment, its very handy and both are a must in my book.

Enjoy your new machine,

Bill
 
Hey Bill.I have been wanting to get the small wheel attachment for a while now.I was wondering how the rolling sleeves hold up?
Also what size small wheels do you usually use.
Sorry for hijacking Allen.
Allen I think you will really like the Coote.I really enjoy mine.
Ditto on what bill said about the step pulleys.
 
I like my coote, I got the three speed belt drive from them but you can save a few bucks by getting the same locally or order from Grainger. It needs to be stable so I made a 1 1/2" table from 3/4 ply. Its bolted to the wall and now has as tool box below so I have some storage. I got the ceramic platten with I really like and really shows no wear so far. That is something you can add later.

sixdroppoints010.jpg
 
The Coote is the first real grinder I've got, and so far it's been going several years without a problem. It's well built and produces profesional results. It's probably the best bang for the buck grinder out there. That said I'd love to one day get a KMG, but even then I wouldn't retire my Coote.

Total set-up, you need first and formost a good solid way of mounting it. I built a wood bench with 2" thick white oak for top mounting, and I built the bench hight wise with my prefered grinding hight in mind. Second, a good 1 horse or better, preferably a 1.5 or 2 horse, but I've been running a 1 horse ever since I've had the grinder. A barn door type hing to mount and tension the belt from motor to grinder, I also use a coil spring to keep tension on the belt. And most importantly a set of step pullies, I use 3 steps on each pully and haven't even been tempted to get varible speed. A ceramic platten is money well spent but you can get by for a while without it. The small wheels I used for a long time till I got a horizontal grinder from R. Frink, now I almost never use them, but have never regreted getting them and they show almost no wear.
 
The only small wheel I have is the 1", but that was the only small wheel they offered at that time, what other sizes do they offer now? The 1" small wheel is going strong, never a problem and I use it on almost every knife I make, so it's held up beautifully. :thumbup:

Bill
 
he offers a whole line of sleeves now, from .5" to 2.5" if I remember correctly.


A quick question: How does the small wheel attachment mount to the grinder? I've been looking at it on the Coote website but can't tell for sure.
 
Love my Coote grinder. I do have the 10 inch wheel. If concave grinding I believe I would rather choose the 8 inch wheel. I am a flat grinder but still believe the 8 inch wheel would serve me better if wanting to bevel grind with the wheel. What do I know about that(?). As stated before, do get the step pulley. I use a variable speed motor controller but the step pulley still can come in handy with those too. Without motor speed control you will surely want a step pulley. Especially for tang tapering, get a strip of pyrocerim for the flat platen. That will raise your blade enough above the wheel as you taper the tang (that is the geometry of the Coote). The Coote is a great mid range grinder. I recommend it.

rlinger
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So rlinger would go with the 8 inch contact wheel over the 10. Anyone else have an opinion as to this. I have only made knives with hammer, anvil, and regular shop tools so I haven't had the opportunity to hollow grind yet.
 
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