Getting a lot of rusting with O1 steel blades

Derek15555 said:
Does anyone then know what temperature O1 steel is when a magnet will no longer stick?
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I cant remember right off hand the exact temp but all i do is take it just past non magnetic and get it in oil asap. Blades come out good for me that way. Keep them dry and oiled and you should be fine.

Jay
 
Do those of you who oil your knives differentiate between oils you use for a food-use knife vs. a non-food knife? I guess I'm asking whether you would use a food grade oil if you think the knife might possibly be used for food prep, or just clean the knife before preparing food and use whatever oil you have. Thx
 
Derek15555 said:
Does anyone then know what temperature O1 steel is when a magnet will no longer stick?
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Most - if not all - steels will lose their magnetism around 1400+ F. When I heat treat O1, I bring it up to anywhere between 1500 F - 1550 F, and then try to hold that temp range for 4-7 minutes (depending on thickness), as O1 requires some time for the elements/carbon to be in solution. This seems to work fine for me. By austenizing and quenching from 1700+ F, there was likely some grain growth, which doesn't necessarily ruin the blade (if it's minimal), but can be bad news for the cutting edge.
 
ggoose said:
Do those of you who oil your knives differentiate between oils you use for a food-use knife vs. a non-food knife? I guess I'm asking whether you would use a food grade oil if you think the knife might possibly be used for food prep, or just clean the knife before preparing food and use whatever oil you have. Thx
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I always just play it safe with food knives and use food grade oil. I dont like the idea of using something like motor oil with something you'll be cooking with.
 
1750 is way too hot. Don't guess at your HT, take a minute and look it up. For 01 heat it to 1450, hold it there for 15 or 20 minutes then quench in 135 degree oil. Then I temper mine at 450.

01 is a great steel because of its toughness, ease of sharpening, and its edge holding. Chefs ask for it by name on their kitchen knives. You can't leave it in the dish drainer wet and expect it not to rust. It takes maintainance. If you want a lifeless soulless knife that is a royal pain to re-sharpen, use stainless. Any one is as good as another as SS has no soul. Otherwise, just like the pro's, be prepared and willing to do the maintainance.
 
ggoose said:
Do those of you who oil your knives differentiate between oils you use for a food-use knife vs. a non-food knife? I guess I'm asking whether you would use a food grade oil if you think the knife might possibly be used for food prep, or just clean the knife before preparing food and use whatever oil you have. Thx
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Mineral oil is the best thing for knives. Olive oil will work, but it will go rancid over time. Mineral oil will not.
 
The temp. at which steel goes non-magnetic is ~1414 and is called the Curie point. If you're using this method with O1 you're not getting the most from it. If you're going to keep using this process you would be better off using 1075 or 1084.
 
Fiddleback said:
If you want a lifeless soulless knife that is a royal pain to re-sharpen, use stainless. Any one is as good as another as SS has no soul.
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I did not know one of the attributes of chromium is soul sucking!

I've had some trouble sharpening S30V & 440C. Other stainless steels (AEB-L, S35VN, Elmax, M390) are not a problem. I've stropped AEB-L on cardboard and brought it back to scary sharp. The nitrogen stainless steel are even easier to sharpen. Z-FiNit sharpens like 52100 with the similar edge holding.

I am curious if nitrogen can suck souls like chromium. :confused:

Chuck
 
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