Getting Another BK21 (Dyed Strap)

[The Warrior]

Thanks man. Should be here Friday.

 

[gmoneyluv]

Good looking sheath! Can't wait to see pics of your setup!

 

[The Warrior]

It really is a nice looking sheath.

 

[FAL'ER]

Oh hell ya.
Saw that on bcusa.
Sorta wanted it, but just for the sheath.
Legit sheath

 

[The Warrior]

Word.

 

[The Warrior]

Supposed to be here Friday, out for delivery today. Nice.

 

[The Warrior]

Got it in. Sweet setup. I had forgotten how weight forward the 21 is. Sun didn't cooperate with the photo taking:

 

[daizee]

ooh yeah!!

 

[Jonny1280]

That’s purdy…
Makes me wish I still had one. Kinda…
As much as I love everything about the 21, there was a lot of “tingy-ness” when it came to chopping. I’d get more “tings” than deep bites. The angle had to be just right and the sweet spot seemed very small for such a large knife.
It’s thin though. It’s geared more towards snap chops on smaller branches more so than hammering into large pieces of wood.
It’s a great knife for what it’s intended for. Plus it’s sexy. It’s just a good lookin’ knife.

 

[The Warrior]

That’s purdy…
Makes me wish I still had one. Kinda…
As much as I love everything about the 21, there was a lot of “tingy-ness” when it came to chopping. I’d get more “tings” than deep bites. The angle had to be just right and the sweet spot seemed very small for such a large knife.
It’s thin though. It’s geared more towards snap chops on smaller branches more so than hammering into large pieces of wood.
It’s a great knife for what it’s intended for. Plus it’s sexy. It’s just a good lookin’ knife.

That's why I sold my first 21. Got a lot of shock in the handle at times. I've seen here, and on youtube where they would resharpen at a different angle, and get some good bites. Thinking of sending it to 91bravo for one of his sharpening sessions.
Also, I'm gonna dye the dangler strap black.

 

[Tanker 1/66]

Super nice Dubz. I have the same setup but with a dangler from Al. I have 91Bravo’s old 21.
I was getting some shocks thru mine while chopping big timber. I remedied the problem by convexing the edge. More awe than shock now.
I can’t wait to see some cabin pics.

 

[Xr6x]

The 21 takes big BITES something wrong if it doesn’t

love at first swing


One of my favorite little tree remove’s for sure.


The 20 also nice for little trees as is the Parangatang and the 4 and the 9 the list keep’s going.

 

[The Warrior]

Super nice Dubz. I have the same setup but with a dangler from Al. I have 91Bravo’s old 21.
I was getting some shocks thru mine while chopping big timber. I remedied the problem by convexing the edge. More awe than shock now.
I can’t wait to see some cabin pics.

Convexing sounds like a good idea. I wish I were better at sharpening.

The 21 takes big BITES something wrong if it doesn’t
View attachment 1762611
love at first swing
View attachment 1762627

One of my favorite little tree remove’s for sure.
View attachment 1762625
View attachment 1762626
The 20 also nice for little trees as is the Parangatang and the 4 and the 9 the list keep’s going.

My experience with it, was hit and miss. Sometimes it bit in, but most times it didn't. Reprofiling seems the way to go.

 

[91bravo]

I haven't used my 21 in quite some time. I usually grab my BK9, 1311, or Medium Chopper first. I may just end up selling it, since it doesn't see much use anymore.

Dubz, send on that 21 if you want it sharpened.

 

[daizee]

I think Ka-Bar's recurve sharpening isn't the best out of the box, from what I've seen. I think their process is (rightly so) optimized for convex vs. concave curves, which would be totally normal.

My plan for Tank's proto is (after knocking it back on the belt) to chuck it upside-down in the vise and dial it in with a long, ovoid diamond kitchen steel. In fact, I should touch up my own BK-21 that way too. Hmmm.

 

[Xr6x]

Daizee hit the nail on the head Most high production edges aren’t what you think out of the box. They might feel some what sharp. You will see right away what a mess of an edge you have when go to sharpening it yourself It makes a World of difference to have a good straight edge. So important a centered one. It’s understandable someone in a hurry belt sharpening a long recurve all day is going to slip up and it doesn’t take much to mess up and if you keep following there curves it won’t get and better.

 

[Jonny1280]

I do remember Ethans prototype was convexed by Jerry Fisk. It definitely hit harder than the production models.
Convexing that edge is probably key.

 

[The Warrior]

I haven't used my 21 in quite some time. I usually grab my BK9, 1311, or Medium Chopper first. I may just end up selling it, since it doesn't see much use anymore.

Dubz, send on that 21 if you want it sharpened.

I may end up doing just that. Can you convex a recurve? Dumb question?

I think Ka-Bar's recurve sharpening isn't the best out of the box, from what I've seen. I think their process is (rightly so) optimized for convex vs. concave curves, which would be totally normal.

My plan for Tank's proto is (after knocking it back on the belt) to chuck it upside-down in the vise and dial it in with a long, ovoid diamond kitchen steel. In fact, I should touch up my own BK-21 that way too. Hmmm.

Is a steel the best way to sharpen a recurve?

Daizee hit the nail on the head Most high production edges aren’t what you think out of the box. They might feel some what sharp. You will see right away what a mess of an edge you have when go to sharpening it yourself It makes a World of difference to have a good straight edge. So important a centered one. It’s understandable someone in a hurry belt sharpening a long recurve all day is going to slip up and it doesn’t take much to mess up and if you keep following there curves it won’t get and better.

I agree, especially towards the end of the day, when you've already sharpened several.

I do remember Ethans prototype was convexed by Jerry Fisk. It definitely hit harder than the production models.
Convexing that edge is probably key.

I think so.

 

[91bravo]

I may end up doing just that. Can you convex a recurve? Dumb question?

Is a steel the best way to sharpen a recurve?

I agree, especially towards the end of the day, when you've already sharpened several.

I think so.

You can, but it takes quite a few sharpening sessions to get there.

 

[daizee]

Sure, you can convex anything. There are two strategies:

1) sharpen at a "normal" angle (~20dps in this case) and then roll the edge shoulder back to reduce drag
2) sharpen at a shallower angle (~15dps?) and then roll the edge itself a smidge steeper for more strength at the weakest point

You can do both of these things at once with the sandpaper-on-a-mousepad trick if you want to be aggressive. For convex sharpening, I like to use the $3 soft-core 3-sided nail buffing pads from the drug store. But they don't have enough abrasive to remove a lot of material.

The typical issue with recurves is that rectangular sharpening "stones" only contact the inner curve at two corner points. If you have a rounded-over natural stone that you don't mind making rounder, that can work ok. But if you're using something like a diamond plate it really doesn't work at all.

An ovoid or round diamond rod connects tangentially with the edge vs. at two points, so you get around that problem.
Of course a standard kitchen steel will work to dress the edge just like on a kitchen knife, but certainly won't be aggressive for ACTUAL sharpening that requires removing material.

My armchair suspicion is that the Fisk'd blade was just sharpened better overall, and it wasn't the convexing specifically that was the secret sauce. I mean... a master bladesmith spent a few minutes on ONLY the edge of ONLY that knife - results should be excellent.

I've generally found my Ka-Bar non-recurve edges to be perfectly adequate out of the box. Maybe a wipe on a kitchen steel or a quick strop would be a mild improvement, but they're usually fine. What I'd produce by hand? No. But meeting expectations for a big, mass-produced blade at the price point? Absolutely.