Getting rust out of Busse BBDC need your help

COPIUOS

COPIUOS

Joined
Dec 24, 2015
Messages
1,609
Any secrets? I have since learned to oil mine down, just living in South Louisiana.

I have one particular blade that picked up some benign rust just by living in my air conditioned house in my South Louisiana climate, never used or even taken outside, maybe for pics.

I would just make it a user although it is a BBDC MoJo with serrations, so not the first in line. I would like to sell/trade it or at least keep it and bring it back to its natural beautiful state. I have tried to wipe down with oils and a cloth (non-abrasive) and it is not coming out.

I have access to an industrial blasting cabinet at a ship yard, although I don't think it would retain the logo etc, unless y'all have some advice there

Little help here!

Thanks for your time spent in responding in advance.

Cam
 
vigorous hand rubbing with some mothers polish.

works for me down in florida.
 
Mothers or Flitz is what I used when I moved to Puerto Rico and had a little surface rust show up
 
flitz also works really well. i used some to get some rust off a paramilitary 2 that started rusting from just a day hike in the swamps.
 
Thanks all very much, - are these ACE Hardware type purchases, or more specialty than that?

Cam
 
COPIUOS said:
Thanks all very much, - are these ACE Hardware type purchases, or more specialty than that?

Cam
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autozone/oreilley/walmart have mothers polish, its like $5.99 around here. get a microfiber towel to go with it. rub it on till it turns black, get a clean spot of the towel and wipe it away. repeat.
 
I've used plain old blue toothpaste and a pencil eraser with good results. That was on satin finish, though. Polishing on the DCBB finish might leave it looking uneven.
 
Warning...Mothers & Flitz will make DCBB, any bead blast shiny or shinier than flat. If you just hit the rust/oxidized spots, it may look funny. Be prepared to evenly do the whole blade if you go this route. :)
 
If a method you use does alter the DCBB, keep in mind that it isn't that hard to convert to satin. DCBB is the most sensitive of all the finishes to both rust and scratches.
 
I can get darn close to matching DCBB with a 50/50 mix of red garnet and Skat Magic media, Just play with the air settings until you get to the desired look. As you said it will remove at least the darkness in the etching.

Before polishing I would try a solvent first to avoid affecting the finish, just about any oily lubricant has some solvents in it that will break down surface rust. Tuff Glide works well but not easily sourced locally, even gun cleaning solvent like Hoppe's #9 will do a good job on light stuff.

Once resolved Renaissance Wax is a great, I put that stuff on everything and it won't polish out your DCBB unless you really try, hard.
 
Found that Whink stuff on Amazon, may grab a bottle to have around.. my "stainless" Weber grill has some rust spots anyway.. Whink Rust Stain Remover
 
Not a fan of DC....for using and ESPECIALLY for collecting.

I'd sand it down to satin-- about 600 grit. Anything you do to try to "touch it up here & there" is gonna look like hell, imho. Better off adding some battle scars to give it character or erasing all the bb altogether.
 
Well like others what ever you do, I always recommend doing the whole knive. Get wet/dry 1000/1500/or even higher grit and go to town with some strike hold, R.E.M. Oil, etc. strikehold is a brand I picked up a local gun mom and pop so may be hard to find, but it is my absolute fav!!
 
PORNOCARL said:
Well like others what ever you do, I always recommend doing the whole knive. Get wet/dry 1000/1500/or even higher grit and go to town with some strike hold, R.E.M. Oil, etc. strikehold is a brand I picked up a local gun mom and pop so may be hard to find, but it is my absolute fav!!
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Sorry, hand sand.. no tool necessary. Of course a buffing wheel would be tits:)
 
I've used WD40 a cheap horse hair brush with good results. I had to go over it several times but it worked for me.
 
I'd start smashing it through some hardwood. Usualy takes care of any corrosion. Use it and love it for what it is :)

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Thanks all! Looks like I am in for a hand satin/mirror job or just using it and then mess with it. I've got all types of vegetation around the yard that the teefies might do good on, particularly some Of the larger vines I need to clear out of some palms. May just go totally modded out in this when it's all said and done and just make it a project and see how it turns out over time.

Always good to hear all perspectives and thanks everybody for the advice and weighing in.

Cam
 
Here's a couple products I like, Corrosion block, Corrosion X, Gibbs penetrant oil. I use the Gibbs a lot on blades. One A2 blade I edc tends to light rust, I spray on Gibbs and let it sit couple hours or overnight and wipe off with micro fiber. Usually takes it right off. All can be found online
 
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