Getting started on big blades: differential 1075-1085 or 1095 thru tempe??

The Kevin guy is not a metallurgist but is a VERY fine blade maker with VERY high amounts of metallurgy knowledge. On rare occasions it takes a real metallurgist like myself to give him correct metallurgy info !!
The discussions about a possible brittle zone in edge quenched are a moot point .While edge quenched is very popular it can be shown that it's not as good as full quench.
Other than 1080/1084 for beginner choppers ,5160 and 9260 will work fine . When you become a very experienced maker then you can use CPM 3V ,that makes a VERY good chopper !
Hammerfall and I were discussing the process of drawing back the spine, Mete... not edge quenching. Full temper, torch the spine to 600-700F with the edge in water.... Would TME be an issue?
 
The maker's ability has more to do with a good blade than the type of steel used. If I was shopping for a blade, the important question would be "Who made it?" rather than "What's it made from?"

Good point Rick.

The Kevin guy is not a metallurgist but is a VERY fine blade maker with VERY high amounts of metallurgy knowledge. On rare occasions it takes a real metallurgist like myself to give him correct metallurgy info !!

By nature, all metalsmiths are metallurgists,… but not all metallurgists are metalsmiths.

Conclusion: I’d rather have a knife made by a metalsmith than a metallurgist.
 
The Kevin guy is not a metallurgist but is a VERY fine blade maker with VERY high amounts of metallurgy knowledge. On rare occasions it takes a real metallurgist like myself to give him correct metallurgy info !!

Sorry mete. Hopefully no offense on your end sir.
 
The Kevin guy is not a metallurgist but is a VERY fine blade maker with VERY high amounts of metallurgy knowledge. On rare occasions it takes a real metallurgist like myself to give him correct metallurgy info !!
The discussions about a possible brittle zone in edge quenched are a moot point .While edge quenched is very popular it can be shown that it's not as good as full quench.
Other than 1080/1084 for beginner choppers ,5160 and 9260 will work fine . When you become a very experienced maker then you can use CPM 3V ,that makes a VERY good chopper !

scroll up mete, i think it started at first page. the discussion was not about edge quenching bring up a brittle zone. its about differential tempering. and the tempering embritle zone is quiet important enough to take note by any knifemaker or manufactures. sometime when the real metallurgists such as yourself are busy making nukes and lightsabres, it takes a not so real metallurgist such like myself to pop up some moot info or thoughts to confuse people :p
 
It is impossible to predict what type of stresses, strains, shock etc., and to what degree any given knife will be called upon to withstand regardless of the maker's intention. Therefore, it is also impossible to accurately predict which thermal treatment would be best or worst. That part is theoretical. However, it is given that different heat treatments will impart different properties to the macrostructure of any given blade.
 
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