getting the final edge

ScottRoush

ScottRoush

Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
1,818
Just wondering how people who sell their knives do their final working edge when finishing. Do most folks use their final grit on the grinder for the edge and then hand polish? Does anybody use stones after grinding and then polish? I've decided I don't like the look of secondary edge bevels and am trying to come up with the best technique... I understand that much of it depends upon the application of the blade...

Thanks!
 
I do my blades on the grinder with a well worn 320 grit belt and not on the platen but the slack right below it. Draw the wire edge then I use a paper wheel to remove the wire. Makes it polished and razor sharp. Least thats how I do it.
 
Mossanimal said:
but does your stropping polish the blade well enough to send to a client???
Click to expand...

I do my final edge stropping on a heavy wood block about 2" wide and 10" long. It has an exact size piece of leather glued to each side. One side loaded with black buffing compound the other with green chrome.

The black has some cutting ability to it and works great for removing the micro burr. This is a perfectly acceptable finished edge that will shave hair and slice paper easily (with proper edge geometry).

But the green side will put almost a mirror polish on the micro bevel on the edge.
 
There are cork belts that will polish. They might do well for an edge too.
 
I do as Dan and create the wire edge on the grinder's slack belt. I'll usually go from an edge setting 150 or 220 grit to a 400 grit, and sometimes to a dull 600 grit loaded with white rouge. I draw out the wire edge very fine without breaking it off on the grinder, then take it to the buffer for very light (no pressure really) buffing passes to the wire edge. This tends to draw it out even finer before I make a pass on either side at more severe angle to remove any burr left form the edge. A quick strop with loaded leather can increase the keeness even more.

That is how I do a polished edge (great for push cuts), but not every knife needs or should have a polished edge. I usually leave my camping/hard use knives a little toothier.

--nathan
 
I did all the above until I got the paper wheel, I use a 1 x 36 with 320 to get a wire edge and then polish with the paper wheel, faster and very accurate and sharp.
 
My blades are all flat ground pretty thin. From there, I convex the final edge on with an 80 grit zirconia belt on my 1x42 grinder. I use an 80 grit here, so as to not build up heat on the edge, since I'm still removing a little steel. After that, it's up to a 220 grit belt, and I am being extra careful not to use much pressure. At this point, there will be a visible wire edge. Then, it's up to a 400 grit belt. Truthfully, after the 400 grit belt, most folks would be happy. But, I have a 15 micron belt that I use only to polish the edge. Then, I go to a leather belt with white polishing compound. I can shave easily with the resulting mirror polished edge.
 
This thread raises an old question for my small brain .:D For wheel sharpening . This produces a hollow ground edge . If the blades are ground to a thin edge to begin with, a flat or convex final edge leaves a little meat behind the edge for strength where as a hollow edge will remove the meat creating a more fragile edge . I know the argument will be that the hollow is so minute it will not be an issue , but my small brain still sees a hollow fragile edge .
 
Yup, exactly how I feel Oneill, and that's exactly why I have never looked into buying one of those Tormeks.
Belt sharpeners are the only way to go for sharpening knives.
Even a non knifemaker should invest in a $100 1x42 little setup, which works great for sharpening...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top