Getting to the bottom of this eyelet splitting problem!

[stezann]

You could get away with the usual heat to a dull red and quench. It's the method used for annealing non ferrous metals in order to erase the work hardening.
The quench is only useful to get back to work fast, the real annealing it's just cycling aroung the recrystallization temperature...no problems overshooting it unless you melt the metal
It's a case where a simple torch works, but if you need to do into a kiln, you'll save money by setting the lowest glowing temperature...in any case try to be sure it's at least not under 750 °F to be effective.
If you anneal to higher temperatures the brass will be very soft, you'll find your sweet spot for the eyelet application.

 

[ARMORsheathsLLC]

I know this is an old thread but I have a serious problem. I bought 2000 eyelets from SISKA and I have a 90% splitting rate!!! I still have some old stock that is damn near 0% failure rate, I mean almost perfect to the point a rare split makes me smile, but this time round I am freaking out! This is bad! Has anyone had any issue getting replacements from siska? or do I need to hunt for a new supplier? Who do you guys use?

 

[AVigil]

I know this is an old thread but I have a serious problem. I bought 2000 eyelets from SISKA and I have a 90% splitting rate!!! I still have some old stock that is damn near 0% failure rate, I mean almost perfect to the point a rare split makes me smile, but this time round I am freaking out! This is bad! Has anyone had any issue getting replacements from siska? or do I need to hunt for a new supplier? Who do you guys use?

Knife kits has the best IMHO

Contact Siska, this was a real issue and they may replace them for you with good ones.