GIB 2.0 Question

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probrwr

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Dec 31, 2015
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Any of you that have the GIB. I am almost done building mone and ran into a rather odd problem.

My motor shaft is a standard 56C frame 5/8 shaft. I belive that makes it 1 7/8 inches long. The motor mounts on the side of a 1/2 inch plate. This leaves 1 1/8 inches exposed.

The problem is that the wheel plane for tye tooling arm is another 1/2 inch out from there. This leaves me 5/8 of an inch for the wheel to be put on.

Not enough meat there... any ideas?

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No. Drive wheel came from oregon blade maker on ebay.

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Yeah, same problem on mine. I have about one inch of the wheel on the shaft when all is assembled. My plane is the same where I have about a 1/2" from the motor mounting plate to the inside of the wheel. The motor shaft is keyed and I extended the key stock all the way out to the outer edge of the wheel and this helps. I've seen some people have milled off some of the tooling arm so they could shift the platen to the left and have the drive wheel really close to the motor mounting plate. I considered this, but mine works fine with just one inch of shaft.
 
My drive wheel has the setvscrew in the middle of the wheel. I dont think it is going to reach the shaft. I am considering putting a shaft coupler and a 3 onch stub shaft on it
Then spacing the motor back from the mounting plate

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probrwr said:
My drive wheel has the setvscrew in the middle of the wheel. I dont think it is going to reach the shaft. I am considering putting a shaft coupler and a 3 onch stub shaft on it
Then spacing the motor back from the mounting plate

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Click to expand...

That will put a lot of lateral pressure on the front bushings/bearings of the motor. Perfect alignment would also be very unlikely, so it may run with considerable vibration

I would consider a better alternative would be to mount a shaft with a pulley on one end and the drive wheel on the other.
Make a plate that matches the center of the existing drive wheel hole and mount it to the base plate properly aligned. Put a shaft bearing on each of the plates and mount the shaft through it. Pulley goes between the plates.

Two of these :
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=28

And one each of these:
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=28
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=86
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=21

Look at the KMG to see how Mike does it. Also, check with Polar Bear Forge (GIB maker) and ask if he has a set of plates that will solve your problem.
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/images/KMG-PL2.jpg
 
Stacy,
I have a speed control drive so i am trying to keep it direct drive. Your suggestion got me thinking about putting one bearing in the hole for the motor and using the shaft couoler and shaft. This way thebload ends up on the bearing and not the motor.

The other thing i found was this

http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=78

Not sure how important ot is to have the drive wheel crowned?

Btw. I am going to be in Norfolk doing a collaboration brew with Coelacanth Brewing on the 20th.


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Not often do I EVER dis-agree with Stacy, but this time I beg to differ. "IF" I really wanted the shaft to reach full length of drive wheel, I'd have an offset drive wheel made. I suspect that will be less expensive (AND smoother) than putting the pulleys, shaft, bearings, etc. My shaft extends only about half way thru drive wheel. I did drill my setscrew a bit to one side to be sure it gets a good grip on shaft.

Ken H>
 
probrwr said:
My drive wheel has the setvscrew in the middle of the wheel. I dont think it is going to reach the shaft. I am considering putting a shaft coupler and a 3 onch stub shaft on it
Then spacing the motor back from the mounting plate

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Click to expand...
If your motor is standard 56C you should end up with 1" of shaft into the wheel. The 1-7/8 measurement is from the face of the lip on the motor which gives you an additional 1/8" as the lip inserts into the 1/2" plate. Also your math above is not correct. 1-7/8 minus 1/2" of the plate is 1-3/8" and then minus the 1/2" gap leave you with 7/8" plus the 1/8" you pick up when the motor slides into the mounting plate gives you a total of 1" for the wheel to set on. At least that's how it works on my 56C. You are right though, if your set screw is in the center of the wheel it's not going to hit the shaft. My drive wheel is from knife grinder parts and the set screw is offset so that it is 3/4" from the inside edge of the wheel. I don't know how essential the domed drive wheel is, but both my drive and tracing wheels are domed and it tracks great. IMO the pulley system is a bad idea. Another problem your going to find is that with the gas shock installed and fully compressed the tracking arm will not ride horizontal which skews the tracking. I had to make a new extended tracking arm support to correct this problem.

There are a few tweeks that need to be made, but once you get it set up correctly, it's a great grinder. I hope this info helps and good luck with your build!
 
I just ordered the drive wheel from Knifegrinderparts.com. i will save the other one for anither project in the future.

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Ken,
I totally agree with you that an offset wheel would be better. Personally, I would have someone in a machine shop turn an aluminum wheel with an offset center so that it fully seats on the shaft. But, since he is building a GIB and using an Oregon Blademaker budget wheel, I don't know if that will fit his budget.. I was trying to think up a sub-$100 fix.


probrwr,
Coelacanth is a great brewery. I will have to make sure I come over and say hello. What hours will you be there. I could knock off a bit early and drop by on my way home with an empty growler or two. I can usually be recognized by my beard and my hat.

Even if you use VS, a belt drive can still be used to power the drive wheel from the motor. Ken's suggestion is by far the preferred solution if you can do it.

Using a bearing plate and the motor with an extension may acerbate any vibration due to misalignment. Before doing it, you may want to attach the extension and drive wheel to the motor and test for run-out and vibration.



OT to probrwr ,- I recently tried the Sam Adams Bondfire Blonde. It is what I would call the Laphroaig of craft beers - smoky and peaty. The first one was a bit strange, but they got better once I knew what I was to expect. It certainly is a sipping beer, not a guzzling one. I thought it would be great if done by a craft brewer with a real peat smoked malt. Do you or coelacanth make a smoky beer?
 
Stacy,

OT. I do not know about Coelacanth but we at Parkway do not make a smoked beer... yet. I feel like Coelacanth is not open on Tuesdays but we will be there late morning and afternoon.

On topic. I am trying to save money doing this. Brewers dont make bank. :). But with that being said i do believe in doing things right. I am going to give the knife grinder parts a shot and then may discuss a new wheel with my buddy that owns a machine shop.another option would be to make a flange for the existing wheel that bolts up to the side to give it more support.

One of there days i am going to purchase the lathe and mill i have wanted for years.

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You are right - they are closed Monday and Tuesday. Send me an email and we'll see about getting together.
 
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