GIB Build Almost done but

revengencer22

revengencer22

Joined
Sep 7, 2009
Messages
162
Hey guys, I have my GIB up and running. I am still going to add some step pulleys but I thought I would check the tracking with the motor hooked right into the drive wheel (variable frequency drive style). So far it is running pretty good but I do notice a slight (very slight) pulsing movement on the belt. I does stay tracked in the same area without moving though. I took a video and just wanted to know if this is OK or if my alignment is off and my machine is going to explode into a million pieces and melt into the ground:)

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Now lets see if we can embed the video[video=youtube;Hl8qBcbWMB8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hl8qBcbWMB8&feature=g-upl&context=G2570b1dAUAAAAAAABAA[/video]
 
It could simply be your belt.

Try another belt.

But if I were you I would go to Lowes or HD and buy a 69lb spring they sell there and use that for the tension. That little spring just does not provide enough tension.
 
A couple things. The spring might be an issue. The things I see are the lower wheel might be the source of the sound. I have a 4" and an 8" budget wheel and neither are well balanced. I spent a couple hours with a file on mine truing up the 8" but even after that due to the wheel's serrations being uneven depths the wheel still sounds funny but it runs well.

You'll know if your spring is adequate when you push into the belt on the platen. Over all I've found with my GIB that the more spring tension the better.

The belt also could be a factor. I find that different belts all make different noises.

Have fun grinding!!
 
Thanks so much for the help guys! I will try both the spring and the belts this weekend. Its funny how much you learn while you are building one of these things. I had heard about the economy wheels not being as good as other wheels after I bought them already. Its true that the actual build takes only a day or two but problem solving and research seems to take forever to get the optimal machine up and running well. I suppose its something you are always continually building and modding.

I have to say that without all of you guys help, information and experience on the boards I never would have my own grinder. So an extremely honest thanks to all you guys on the makers forum.
 
An easy way to do the spring. Mount a turnbuckle to the bad plate. It will allow easy adjustment of the tension.
You are right, with a GIB build it's the fine tuning that takes the time.

My 8" economy wheel is better after some tuning. I think it's great option for occasional hollow grinds. I'll buy the best wheels I can get in the future for heavy daily tasks.
 
I had problems with springs constantly losing pressure, so I ended up finally modding my gib build with Ed Caffrey's recommended mods. I used a section of pipe to sleeve a compression spring with a shaft, that contacts the tension arm, which I extended out by drilling the end. After some careful drive/tracking wheel alignment, I've been thrilled with the consistent and continual tracking, although, regardless, bad belts will still wobble.

Anyway, its worth considering upfront, if you find you tracking suddenly getting worse, it's likely that spring, but different relationships between tension and tracking wheel height can affect how one tooling arm tracks versus another, and raising, along with bringing forward the tracking wheel can really help that.

I had a long chat with Chris Williams about the differences between the eerf/gib grinders and his wilmont grinder (which is ace btw) and it really helped me get my gib performing as well or better than the numerous commercial options I've used.


I can post pics if you need a visual.
 
This doesn't apply on yours, but you can test "spring pressure issues" easily if you have a longer tool arm. My arm is 24" and extends out the back just touching the spring. If I have a fresh and very stiff belt on (that needs more spring), I take a cheap woodworking slide clamp, the one you have a squeeze handle on, and clamp it between the bottom edge of the tooling arm and the top of the tension arm where the spring attaches. I can gently squeeze the handle to apply more pressure and help straighten out a fresh coarse belt until it breaks in.

I use one of these:
038548103709xl.jpg


I know it doesn't apply here, but something some others may be able to test in a pinch.
 
It looks good! I agree with everything suggested so far, especially the tension.

Javand, I'd wouldn't mind seeing pictures. It's fun to see all the different variations that people have built.

Jamie
 
20120402_211232.jpg20120402_211324.jpg20120402_211415.jpg

I take no credit for these mods, I got the idea from Ed Caffrey who used an open compression spring with some sort of attachment, similar to the kmg I think, I couldn't get my springs to work properly without pushing out, so I housed it in a sleeve, which is just 1" black iron pipe, with a 1" shaft and a heavy compression spring inside. Compression springs don't lose tension like pull springs do, supposedly.

I plan to replace the assembly with a gas spring eventually though.
 
Ha! i never would have thought of that. Its so simple but I guess all the great ideas are. I will buy some more belts and a new 69 pound spring this weekend. thanks again guys (and Jamie for the frame.)
 
javand said:
View attachment 268829View attachment 268830View attachment 268831

I take no credit for these mods, I got the idea from Ed Caffrey who used an open compression spring with some sort of attachment, similar to the kmg I think, I couldn't get my springs to work properly without pushing out, so I housed it in a sleeve, which is just 1" black iron pipe, with a 1" shaft and a heavy compression spring inside. Compression springs don't lose tension like pull springs do, supposedly.

I plan to replace the assembly with a gas spring eventually though.
Click to expand...

Plus the longer length you gain by going to the back hole on the pivot gives that spring greater leverage.

Belt tension is so important for tracking-
 
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