Glaze Coat for micarta

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samuel082799

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Jul 29, 2015
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I found this product called glaze coat and it is marketed for puting it on tables to make a clear finish, it says that it is an epoxy. I was wondering if this would work for making bright micarta because the product is clear unlike the fiberglass resin that is normally used.
 
Sounds like a bar top epoxy similar to System Three clear coat or top coat.

You really don't want to coat a handle with any built up plastic finish, as it will only dull in use and look bad. On a wood handle, what you want is to work the finish into the handle and sand the sealed surface very smooth. On Micarta, all you have to do is sand to a very fine grit, as the surface is already sealed. On the coarser grade Micarta ( canvas), some folks do a sealer coat of thin CA when they reach to 400 grit stage. This seals the cloth fibers and makes for a finer smoothness and look when you get to 800 or 1000 grit.
 
I read it as he was wondering about using it in the construction of micarta, to brighten the entire product- rather than discussing it as a coating on micarta. But I have no more input....
 
Any clear laminating epoxy, like west system or System Three will work. Most consider West system 105 resin and 209 extra slow hardener the best.

BTW, you can't make Micarta at home. It is a phenolic resin product that takes industrial materials and equipment, as well as a registered trademark of Westinghouse.. What is made at home with epoxy is called MyCarta by many folks.
 
Phenolic resin has been around for a long time .For one thing it was used for the early radios in the 1920s. SurviveKnives has handles made of Phenolic/canvas. If there is a objectional smell ,hangit outside for a month or two .That's formaldehyde that you smell ,not good for you or the environment. [ Don't do that with a radio !! LOL ]
 
The question that I have had is how do you get the dark color of canvas Micarta back when it is left rough? I know some people say WD 40, but that seems very temporary arm messy to boot. I HATE the dull gray of rough finished canvas that you see on so many hard use knives. I use Micarta because i want black or green color, not gray or greenish gray. Would something like artist's fixative or a really thin spray of matte polyurethane clear coat do the trick?
 
Sand it to 220 grit and flood with thin CA. Re-sand and take up to the final grit.
 
jdm61 said:
The question that I have had is how do you get the dark color of canvas Micarta back when it is left rough? I know some people say WD 40, but that seems very temporary arm messy to boot. I HATE the dull gray of rough finished canvas that you see on so many hard use knives. I use Micarta because i want black or green color, not gray or greenish gray. Would something like artist's fixative or a really thin spray of matte polyurethane clear coat do the trick?
Click to expand...

If you want to leave it rough for a good grip and want a darker color WD-40 or oil works. It may take a couple treatments(let it "dry" and then reapply) to get it as dark as you want but I've found that it does work.
 
jdm61 said:
The question that I have had is how do you get the dark color of canvas Micarta back when it is left rough? I know some people say WD 40, but that seems very temporary arm messy to boot. I HATE the dull gray of rough finished canvas that you see on so many hard use knives. I use Micarta because i want black or green color, not gray or greenish gray. Would something like artist's fixative or a really thin spray of matte polyurethane clear coat do the trick?
Click to expand...
I just put a thin coat of teak oil on some tan canvas and it darkened up nice and seems to be holding up good.
 
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