Gloss Finish on Dymondwood

GibsonFan

GibsonFan

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Jul 7, 2006
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I just finished up a little boot knife form TKS for my lil woman. She likes the blue dymondwood, but wants me to give it a wet look. I could just ployurethane it, but is there a better way? Maybe wax? I have no experience with waxing but for some reason my brain is leaning that way. The finish doesn't have to be super durable, she doesn't beat her knives near as hard as I do :D
 
If it's stabilized buff it out and then throw a dab of Renaissance Wax on it. It'll shine but won't look "plasticy" like the poly will make it. Yes, yes, I know, "plasticy" isn't a word....
 
Well "plasticy" is a word now, because I knew exactly what you meant! I don't want that thick look that poly has.

If I can't get my hands on Recaissance Wax (that's a brand name right?) are there others I can use?

Thanks!
 
I've heard of some using a MinWax, but I think it's a poly that they use. Called Hard Coat or something like that. I just looked at their website and they have a product called Woodsheen. I also just saw they have past finshing wax also. I've never used it, but from the looks, it would work. I'm sure a trip to Home Depot or Lowe's would turn something up.
 
And yea, that's the brand. Expensive stuff but you use such a little ammount that the smallest container will last forever! I like it because it gives rust and corrosion protection for tool steel, brass, etc. also.
 
Dymond wood buffs out pretty much to a mirror finish on it's own.

I wax my blades and synthetic handle materials with car wax and it turns out pretty nice. But, I have never had to put anything on D-wood.
 
Well I don;t have a buffer so I guess I'll keep hand-sanding thru finer grits and see how smooth I can get it. I may as well try one of the waxes you guys have mentioned, I know I'll want some sooner or later anyway.

Thanks as always for your advice, gentlemen!
 
GibsonFan said:
Well I don;t have a buffer so I guess I'll keep hand-sanding thru finer grits and see how smooth I can get it. I may as well try one of the waxes you guys have mentioned, I know I'll want some sooner or later anyway.

Thanks as always for your advice, gentlemen!
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Do you have a drill press? You can get small stitched muslin buffs (about 3" dia.) mounted on a 1/4" shaft from industrial tool shops. Chuck the buff into your drill press, Set your drill press at about 5000 rpm. load up the buff with a compound made for plastic and work the handle on the buff.

As a safety measure wrap a healthy amount of duct tape on the blade (5 or 6 layers) to protect your hands.

If you have a dremel tool you can do the same with the small buffs they have.

I did this once with a dremel tool, it only took a 10 or 15 minutes.

PS wet sand your handle to 600 grit and buffing will go real quick.
 
Doh! I don't have a drill press at home but I do have a Dremel 400 XLR (or something like that) and some white felt "bits" for polishing. I even have the red Dremel compound for them, I'll try that on scrap first. Who knows it might work great.

I have some nice 3M w/d sandpaper up to 800 grit, I thought that would be a good last step before buffing or hand-burnishing.
 
You don't want to use the felt "bits" or the red compound. You want the 1" or 1.5" muslin cloth wheels and use a white or pink compound. The felt may tend to make burn marks, and the red compound (rouge) may stain the wood in places.
Stacy
 
Thanks bldsmth. Luckily I haven't had time to mess with it yet! I'll find my way to a hardware store this weekend and get the right wheels and compound.
 
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