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Gloves for knife sharpening?
- Thread starter getgloves
- Start date
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- Apr 4, 2023
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- 317
I'm a paramedic, in recent years I've been working with necropsy, opening corpses and examining their organs. I wear steel mesh gloves. As well as the people who work with the slaughter and deboning of animals, they use it.
But for manual sharpening I never used gloves. The tact and lightness of having nothing in your hands, it's much better for sharpening blades.
But for manual sharpening I never used gloves. The tact and lightness of having nothing in your hands, it's much better for sharpening blades.
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2023
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- 317
The detail, I use the steel mesh glove only on one hand, the one that holds the organs for slicing. The hand that holds the knife is only wearing biological protection gloves.
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- Sep 13, 2021
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- 953
I agree with the guys above who don't wear gloves for sharpening, and with the guys who said they wouldn't insult their friend by buying him gloves if he doesn't use them or see the need for them.
But, to answer the OP's question, I would go with West Chester brand A2 cut resistant gloves. They're available from Lowe's and similar places for under $10 a pair. I don't wear them while sharpening, but they have been the best work glove I have tried for tree/chainsaw work. Comfortable, good grip, not bulky, cheap so I keep a pair in every vehicle, bag, etc., and they offer some level of cut/abrasion protection. It's probably not going to give much protection from a full-throttle chainsaw mishap, but it's good for brushing against a chain that's not running, getting the saws in/out of vehicles, etc. Good dexterity for rigging, tying knots, and things.
This brand also offers higher levels of cut protection, as well.
The levels indicate how many grams of cutting load a glove can withstand from a sharp blade before being penetrated. (from Google)
But, to answer the OP's question, I would go with West Chester brand A2 cut resistant gloves. They're available from Lowe's and similar places for under $10 a pair. I don't wear them while sharpening, but they have been the best work glove I have tried for tree/chainsaw work. Comfortable, good grip, not bulky, cheap so I keep a pair in every vehicle, bag, etc., and they offer some level of cut/abrasion protection. It's probably not going to give much protection from a full-throttle chainsaw mishap, but it's good for brushing against a chain that's not running, getting the saws in/out of vehicles, etc. Good dexterity for rigging, tying knots, and things.
This brand also offers higher levels of cut protection, as well.
The levels indicate how many grams of cutting load a glove can withstand from a sharp blade before being penetrated. (from Google)
- A1: 200 - 499 grams.
- A2: 500 - 999 grams.
- A3: 1000 - 1499 grams.
- A4: 1500 - 2199 grams.
- A5: 2200 - 2999 grams.
- A6: 3000 - 3999 grams.
- A7: 4000 - 4999 grams.
- A8: 5000 - 5999 grams.
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- Apr 12, 2009
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- 13,393
I'm also in the 'no glove' camp - firmly. Gloves simply erase all the feel & feedback in the fingertips necessary to gauge what you're getting for results.
I initially learned my freehand touch using small, thin pocket stones held in the hand - usually supported between one or two fingers at one end and my thumb at the other end as pictured below with a Fallkniven DC4 hone, for example - and with one finger bent underneath to support the hone from below. Most of them have just enough thickness to help me keep my fingertips & thumb just below flush with the surface, so the blade can pass over the end of the stone without biting me. But with some hones that are extremely thin like a diamond 'credit card' hone, that meant I had to really focus on maintaining steady control - not too fast or hasty with the sharpening passes and keeping pressure light to avoid forcing the hone to slip in my fingertip grip. I HAVE nicked myself many times using hones like this - but I consider those 'accidents' preventable via good technique and avoiding the carelessness and absent-mindedness that will always bring mistakes. It always reminds me to stay focused and maintain a steady, controlled pace while keeping pressure light. I consider the occasional bleeding finger or thumb to be part of the learning curve in sharpening. Kind of like learning to ride a bike while also accepting that you might occasionally get thrown on the pavement - it all makes you pay attention to what you're doing.
BTW, I also switch hands between stone & blade, to keep the edge always facing me for the sake of visually confirming flush contact. So the idea of using just one glove for my stone hand wouldn't work for me either, as I'd have to keep switching the glove between hands.
As for sharpening on bench stones or thicker stones used in-hand, there's very little risk for cuts as compared to the in-hand use of smaller, thinner hones as I described above. Most any small stone thicker than 1/4" or so will usually allow the fingertips to be kept out of the way, so long as you're paying attention and not trying to rush things.
I initially learned my freehand touch using small, thin pocket stones held in the hand - usually supported between one or two fingers at one end and my thumb at the other end as pictured below with a Fallkniven DC4 hone, for example - and with one finger bent underneath to support the hone from below. Most of them have just enough thickness to help me keep my fingertips & thumb just below flush with the surface, so the blade can pass over the end of the stone without biting me. But with some hones that are extremely thin like a diamond 'credit card' hone, that meant I had to really focus on maintaining steady control - not too fast or hasty with the sharpening passes and keeping pressure light to avoid forcing the hone to slip in my fingertip grip. I HAVE nicked myself many times using hones like this - but I consider those 'accidents' preventable via good technique and avoiding the carelessness and absent-mindedness that will always bring mistakes. It always reminds me to stay focused and maintain a steady, controlled pace while keeping pressure light. I consider the occasional bleeding finger or thumb to be part of the learning curve in sharpening. Kind of like learning to ride a bike while also accepting that you might occasionally get thrown on the pavement - it all makes you pay attention to what you're doing.
BTW, I also switch hands between stone & blade, to keep the edge always facing me for the sake of visually confirming flush contact. So the idea of using just one glove for my stone hand wouldn't work for me either, as I'd have to keep switching the glove between hands.
As for sharpening on bench stones or thicker stones used in-hand, there's very little risk for cuts as compared to the in-hand use of smaller, thinner hones as I described above. Most any small stone thicker than 1/4" or so will usually allow the fingertips to be kept out of the way, so long as you're paying attention and not trying to rush things.
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- Joined
- Aug 28, 2023
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- 1,193
Imagine wearing gloves. Getting comfortable with them with a false sense of security. Then going back and sharpening without gloves.
Stitches ain't fun at all. Trust me, I know from experience.
Thinking, "Did I just cut myself?". " Man, That SOaB is sharp".
What's an emergency room visit cost these days? $3000?
Stitches ain't fun at all. Trust me, I know from experience.
Thinking, "Did I just cut myself?". " Man, That SOaB is sharp".
What's an emergency room visit cost these days? $3000?
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2015
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- 16,208
Just speculation but if someone has poor enough motor control that sharpening a knife poses a safety risk, they aren't going to have much success sharpening in the first place.
Yeah well you would think it's pretty self evident, but I've tried telling people this before and it never seems to be received very well...
it also applies to using the knife.
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- Mar 8, 2008
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- 25,897
You should never be handling a knife during sharpening in a way that allows you to cut yourself. There's essentially no need to ever be in a position that puts you at risk in the first place, so if you need cut resistant gloves not to cut yourself while sharpening you are already failing badly.
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2023
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- 70
I’ve not cut myself while sharpening but have when processing animals. I have never thought I needed anything when sharpening other than a better light which I have purchased. I have gloves that a do wear when processing certain animals especially if I have a lot to process and am in a hurry.