Gloves

Joined
Feb 15, 2010
Messages
696
Do any of you guys use any version of liquid gloves/ gloves in a bottle type hand cream? Though not opposed to getting my hands dirty, having dye and grime stained hands does get a bit tiresome.

I saw an old thread by Salaverria that mentions him using a product resembling what I've mentioned but could not find a brand that seemed suitable for what we do. Thanks in advance for leads.

-Mike
 
Box-o-nitrile gloves... $5 for 50 pair...keeps my hands crack free and clean. Haven't seen the product you're describing though. Sounds neat.

-Eric
 
I have to force myself to use nitrile glove more often. I get all cracky and stained. Back in my machine shop days, I used them and "liquid gloves" religiously. As for knifemaking... the liquid stuff just didn't work for me. Too much solvent, grime and dust collects between my fingers.
 
The only time I wear gloves is when doing an epoxy soaked hemp handle. I don't know about liquid gloves but I have heard good things about "black mamba" gloves from other knifemakers.
 
Delta-Foremost chemical makes a wonderful product called "Hand Shield." Its a foam that you rub into your hands before work. Soap and water will then remove all the grit/grime easily. It's very easy on the skin-actually can be used for hand cream. It's the best stuff I have ever used.
Unfortunately, it's expensive as hell-and it can only be bought in case lots.
Maybe some of the knife suppliers could look into it and sell indiviual cans.
 
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I can't recall the name of the product I used specifically but it was what you are talking about and worked great. I used it while running a screen printing press.
 
I use nitrile exam gloves from costco 100% of the time. $20 for 400 I think?

Then I usually wear a pair of work gloves over them for protection from cuts and burns
 
Depends on what I'm doing. I use nitrile gloves for working with epoxy, etc. but
I use a medical protective hand cream that Ariel Salaverria recommended on this
forum for working with toxic hardwoods.
 
I think that barrier foamy stuff may just be soap

I get the same results of I just rub in drop of ivory dish soap, but I usually forget.


Latex gloves break down with solvents.

Nitrile are really good, but the most expensive.

I had some good experience with vinyl too, but they are much less flexible.
I get them super cheap, $4 per 100.

My biggest gripe is that I have trouble getting XL sized good cheap gloves, I'm stuck with larges and that's tiring on the hands.
 
It easy to find the gloveless fingers though

food-grade-finger-cots.jpg
 
Costco nitrile work pretty wel but like it was stated, they do break down with solvents. I haven't paid attention to which solvents are the worst. I was are them at work and rarely do they tear but I'm not handling sharp objects or solvent there.
 
Delta-Foremost chemical makes a wonderful product called "Hand Shield." Its a foam that you rub into your hands before work. Soap and water will then remove all the grit/grime easily. It's very easy on the skin-actually can be used for hand cream. It's the best stuff I have ever used.
I think it was the same product demonstrated to my work. After applying the salesman put a few drops of sulfuric acid in his palm to show the protection provided. Jess
 
Costco nitrile work pretty wel but like it was stated, they do break down with solvents. I haven't paid attention to which solvents are the worst. I was are them at work and rarely do they tear but I'm not handling sharp objects or solvent there.

That sounds like latex or vinyl, not nitrile. I have never had a problem with nitrile breaking down... I do also have some very sturdy gloves that are used for clan lab clean-up when I'm working with very strong stuff. I will have to look at the name tonight and post it up. They are about $20 for 25 pairs but are semi-reusable.

-Eric
 
I agree, by definition nitrile are the good one s that resist that stuff, latex breaks down with solvents.

You have to watch for them colouring the latex gloves blue to look like the nitrile ones.
 
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