glow in the dark powder

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Mar 21, 2012
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I see this glow-in-the-dark powder on USA knifemaker.

I haven't started making my own blades yet but I'm getting all the supplies together so I'm wondering if I should toss a jar of that in the mix.
I do Like glow-in-the-dark but how does one use this stuff? do you just mix it in with your epoxy? or what?

also, if you do will I need to make a full scale out of epoxy to see its effect or is it strong enough that just whatever I use for fusing the handles to the tang will be enough for some underglow type effect?

thanks!

edit: I see on the website now that you just mix the stuff in with epoxy. still wondering about the strength though, and also if this makes it any harder to work with the epoxy once the powder is added
 
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It is commonly used in making your own handle material, "mycarta." I wouldn't mix anything other than a pigment in with epoxy that will hold the scales on, it wouldn't be worth it. With good fitment, you will barely even see the glue joint.


-Xander
 
Use a clear carrier epoxy. If at all possible get the new Next Gen powder. It is strontium aluminate based, and is much brighter and longer lasting than the old stuff. They are working on making it in plastic sheets to form non-electric store marquise signs, and self glowing magnetic signage. I've seen some demo video, and it is impressive. hours of bright glow. Up to a day of low glow. IIRC, the green is the the brightest, followed by neon blue.
 
Mix it in with epoxy then make a lamination of fiberglass and this is what it looks like

edit to add... shop around and see what is out there, the powder I used to make this lamination slab has a glow time of 12hr

original.jpg
 
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That's a darn good question, and some awesome sounding stuff!

If you were just using it as a glowing "clear-coat", how many applications would it take?

It's new. Do they know the life expectancy?
 
my thoughts now Is that I will try to mill out a section of the handle and just sort of pour it in. my biggest concern is that it will contain bubbles when it solidifies or that it will get too many micro scratches/cracks when I then go to shape it
 
If you use a clear cast resin, or top coat epoxy, you should have no problems with bubbles. The slower the cure the better. I would suggest 209 hardener.

Because the light absorption is at the molecular/atomic level, I would think the life span should be very long.
I really am interested in this being available in thermoplastic sheet. One could mold any sign or equipment case needed and it would glow brightly after dark for hours. Think of what could be done with glow in the dark Kydex.
 
I wonder how the critters see this material.


I read something that mentioned how bambi's have no colour vision (hence range camo works)
but that they do have some vision in the UV range.

The whiteners and brighteners in laundry soap would then stand out to them.


It's a neat material, but I'd hate to carry a neon knife if the critters could get spooked by it.
 
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