Gluing up CNC machined scales without a mess?

[C_Claycomb]

Any suggestions for ways to attach pre-shaped scales to a tang (full or mortice) without getting glue all over the outside of the finished handle? Normally it doesn't matter how messy you are, with epoxy going all over the place when you put blocks/slabs of handle onto the tang, it all gets ground off when shaping the handle anyway. Sure, epoxy wipes off easy with a rag and some acetone, before it sets anyway, but I worry the solvent will weaken the bond at the edges of the tang.

I tried a couple of ways, but no amount of care seemed to cut it. It was just so hard to use so little glue that there wasn't enough squeeze out to cause problems.

Anyone use one of the anerobic adhesives for fitting G10/Micarta scales? Is there much squeeze out? Does it set at the edges, or do you need to grind back to get to a solid bond?

I guess one could make the handle with flanges that move the glue squeeze out away from where the final profile will be, then grind back when all is set, but that seems like a real Rube Goldberg solution.

Thanks

Chris

 

[john april]

i use rubbing alcohol, its a milder solvent so i worry less about it conflicting with the adhesive.

 

[Natlek]

Any suggestions for ways to attach pre-shaped scales to a tang (full or mortice) without getting glue all over the outside of the finished handle? Normally it doesn't matter how messy you are, with epoxy going all over the place when you put blocks/slabs of handle onto the tang, it all gets ground off when shaping the handle anyway. Sure, epoxy wipes off easy with a rag and some acetone, before it sets anyway, but I worry the solvent will weaken the bond at the edges of the tang.

I tried a couple of ways, but no amount of care seemed to cut it. It was just so hard to use so little glue that there wasn't enough squeeze out to cause problems.

Anyone use one of the anerobic adhesives for fitting G10/Micarta scales? Is there much squeeze out? Does it set at the edges, or do you need to grind back to get to a solid bond?

I guess one could make the handle with flanges that move the glue squeeze out away from where the final profile will be, then grind back when all is set, but that seems like a real Rube Goldberg solution.

Thanks

Chris

Maybe this will help ?

 

[kuraki]

I'm not worried about adhesion at the edge from wiping with alcohol or acetone.

I'm generally more worried about not getting something like micarta actually clean and not leaving a skin coat.

 

[Kevin McGovern]

Maybe this will help ?

Odd, that looks like tape, except it isn't silver and holding my bumper on.

 

[kuraki]

Hahaha

 

[nateman_doo]

use a small amount, and dont let it near the edges, and like others have said, alcohol on a q-tip for some of the other parts. I worry about capillary actions drawing in the cleaner, but so far haven't had that present itself to be a problem.

 

[Natlek]

Odd, that looks like tape, except it isn't silver and holding my bumper on.

You should change that bumper , it's not safe to drive that way I often use it around knive ........that thing which look like tape

 

[Busto]

I just use a little Vaseline where I don't want epoxy to stick and it wipes off easy as the epoxy is curing. Just don't contaminate the tang or handle where you need adhesion!

 

[nateman_doo]

I just use a little Vaseline where I don't want epoxy to stick and it wipes off easy as the epoxy is curing. Just don't contaminate the tang or handle where you need adhesion!

Interesting. I think I will try that.

 

[HSC ///]

i've used loctite 324 anaerobic for this type of thing, amount of squeeze out varies and is relative
also, depending on if you have a mechanical fastening method, you can try a silicone glue, I've been testing and using more and more
this glue also just wipes away

 

[Kevin McGovern]

So you don't drive yourself nuts trying to get the tape exactly on the edge and not over, just let the tape go over the edge by 1/4" or so and cut off the overage with a razor blade.

 

[Natlek]

So you don't drive yourself nuts trying to get the tape exactly on the edge and not over, just let the tape go over the edge by 1/4" or so and cut off the overage with a razor blade.

Now , that is good advice Here's an example where the tape is good choice . Blade will be hard chrome , so sanding after I glue scale is no option .Wood is walnut, scale will be finished in advance and I want to left them natural , without any treatment with oil after was glued on tang . ? Any other solution I have except tape ?

 

[C_Claycomb]

Natlek,
Man...I had to wait till I got home to know what you were talking about! The network at work blocks access to photo hosts. Combined with Kevin's tip on trimming to size, that might just do it!

Back up plan is Vaseline or similar. I had been thinking about oils, but didn't like the idea of them getting on to the glue-up face, too easy for them to move around. The grease does leave a little change in color on Micarta, where it soaks into the cloth and doesn't wash out so easy, but not bad. I wonder if a wax would work better, even less likely to migrate or soak in...

I have another couple of handles progressing towards machining, so will have the chance to try both ways.

Natlek again, not sure whether Renaissance Wax leaves a visible sign on natural walnut after it is wiped off, might that work on the wood? Use tape on the glue face while applying the wax to the outer face, then remove tape for glue up? For the tang, what about that Brownells release agent stuff, paint on with a cotton bud and allow to dry to a film. Don't think it works on wood, just metal, but I could be wrong.

Chris

 

[Busto]

I've done a few hundred micarta scales using vaseline to protect machining against epoxy squeeze out. After it's cured I use Dawn Dish Soap which removes any trace of oils on the micarta.

If I were doing a "Hard Chrome" blade I would just use mechanical fasteners and not use epoxy since there should be less concern about corrosion with that finish.

 

[Natlek]

I've done a few hundred micarta scales using vaseline to protect machining against epoxy squeeze out. After it's cured I use Dawn Dish Soap which removes any trace of oils on the micarta.

If I were doing a "Hard Chrome" blade I would just use mechanical fasteners and not use epoxy since there should be less concern about corrosion with that finish.

I will use copper pins.... riveted , pinned /which one is right word / .Now, if you pull out pins , scale will pop off only with lighter hit with hammer because epoxy don t hold very good on steel .....I need epoxy to stop dirt and moisture entering below the wood/scale, not to hold the scale.........

 

[Busto]

That Chrome finish is so smooth the epoxy won't stick to it. The purpose for chrome is stop corrosion eating away at the steel. If the scales are flat and properly contoured to the tang the pins should be enough to hold them. On a build like this I would have used Corby bolts or Loveless style fasteners that screw together to hold the scales and provide additional clamping force to keep the scales tight to the tang. Don't know how much dirt and moisture you are expecting to expose this to but if its wiped dry and clean should not be that big of a problem.