Going to try my 1st knife

ISKski

Gold Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2011
Messages
1,082
So I thought for mothers day, I was going to try to make my first knife , and make my mother a sort of personal pairing / mini chef knife..

I planned on making it out of the old saw blade i found, i think its 1/16th thick - I was just wondering if there is anything I should know before I start, I've read all the threads I can about blade making - I am going to cut it out with a hack saw, and finish it wil files and sand paper...

If input would be great, THANKS GUYS (and GALS)

ISK

here is the saw blade and pattern

photo8.jpg


photo7.jpg
 
I can see carbide tips, and the brazing the use to attach to the blade.

I'll bet you a wooden nickle that that blade is not useful steel.


since it's a kitchen knife - stainless seems right

Try ATS34, or 154CM or CPM154cm
http://stores.njsteelbaron.com/-strse-Stainless-Steel/Categories.bok



send it to texas knifemaker supply for heat treating

THANK YOU, saw the carbide tips too and wasn't sure if this was good steel to use, that was the main reason i was posting (to see if it was useful steel and any HT info - tho I am going to send out) ... I just wanted to not have to order steel but I think I must -

and I was also thinking about starting from 3/32nd stock..

Would 440c also be a good choice?

Thanks again

ISK
 
440-C makes a good kitchen knife and is inexpensive,when you send it for heat treat make sure and get cryo treatment also.
For that size knife you might also consider 1/16" stock to make it a better slicer.
Since this is your first knife and you took the time to fill out your profile,If you want to send it to me I will H/T it for you.
Welcome to our addiction.
Stan
 
Stan, that would be amazing, you always read about the generosity of the members of blade forums - and this just proves it.. if you like you can email me at ISKNIVES at GMAIL dot COM, or I can email your first either way, I'll keep everyone updated with a WIP thread once i get some real steel!!

THANK YOU

ISK
 
Also if I were to use 1/16th steel would i need to put a primary bevel on the knife? .. and/or could I start making the edge of the blade? Like can I bring the 1/16 down to a convex edge without having ricasso and no plunge lines?

Or do I have to have some sort of grind/bevel to establish a distal taper? I understand why that is important with thicker stock.. so I am just wondering if the same applies to something so thin..

Thanks for the info guys, seriously appreciated

ISK
 
Last edited:
On small and thin kitchen knives you can just bring the sides down to an edge. You do the basic bevel before HT and then finish up the sanding and put on the sharpened edge after HT. Having a flat taper to the main bevel, and just rolling that into an edge works pretty well. On such a knife, you can do without a plunge line,too.
Those of us with grinders often just shape the profile prior to HT, and do all the bevel/edge in one operation after HT. That probably isn't an option for you right now.


Call Aldo, and order a piece of S35VN. It is perfect for kitchen knives.
http://stores.njsteelbaron.com/StoreFront.bok
Ask him if he has any S35VN in thinner stock than the .103" listed on the website. He often has stuff between .065" and .090". The .103" will work fine, but will require more filing and sanding.

On a practical note,give Mom a card with a paper knife in it....the will be what you have in two weeks.
Making a hand made knife, especially in the beginning, isn't a fast project. With some hard work and a fast turn around by Aldo and Stan, you could have the knife done by the end of May.

For a handle, use something simple. Either black linen Micarta or a kitchen type wood, like rosewood, will be good choices for your knife project. I have plenty of both, and will send you a set of scales in each if you want. email me at sapelt@cox.net.

Tools and methods:
The sticky on "How to instructions for making a knife" has a lot of info on the whole process.

For a simple kitchen knife, you will need a second cut and a finishing file, a 2X1X4" block of hardwood to wrap sanding paper around, and a few sheets each of Wet-or-Dry sandpaper in 120/220/400/800/1000 grits.
File the basic bevels in and sand to 400 grit before HT. Drill all tang holes,too. After you get the blade back from Stan, sand from 220 to 1000, dipping the sanding block in water with a little dish soap in it. As you go up the grits, make the edge come down to almost sharp ( watch out ,you can accidentally cut yourself). Once the blade is sanded to 1000, tape it up and fit the handle. When the handle is done, un-tape the blade and put on the final edge with a sharpening stone.
 
Back
Top