Golfsmith shafting epoxy question

PIndelicato

PIndelicato

Joined
Sep 16, 2002
Messages
1,577
I have a question for those who have used Golfsmith's shafting epoxy. I glued up my blade about 24 hours ago using this epoxy (this is this first time I've used it), and it feels like it's more or less hard but at the same time like it's tacky or sticky on the surface.

Is this normal for this stuff, or do I need to wait longer before I begin grinding on the scales, or did I do something wrong?

(Ambient temperature is in the mid-60's if that makes a difference.)
 
If you mixed it according to the instructions it will be fine. It may be like Acra glass or marinine tex and will need extra time. Warmer temps will speed the drying too. Bring it inside the house and give it another day.
 
Mr. Bump,

Thanks for the reply. I'll give it some more time and see what happens (mid-60's is where we keep the thermostat inside in the winter!)

Playing with the leftovers in the mixing cup, it's hard but steel feels tacky and a fingernail will leave a fairly faint, shallow mark in the surface.
 
I agree with Bruce. I place my glued up handles in the same room as our wood burning stove and leave overnight. If you mixed epoxy in the correct portions a little warmth will finish hardning the epoxy.
 
I use this epoxy quite a bit. I have noticed that generally the cooler the temperature the longer the time to set. Summertime 24 hours is good but in the winter when it is only 60 in the basement I usually give it 36-48 hours.
 
Thanks for the additional feedback, fellas. It's been about 35 hours now, and still tacky to the touch and I can still make an impression with my nail. This is on the drips and leftovers in the mixing cup, so I guess inside the scales where it's not exposed to the air it could be even softer still.

Hopefully it will be ready to go in the morning.
 
I don't know about this particular epoxy but I have made laminated longbows for years and glue is all that hold these together and they flex thousands of times. The glue I use i cure in a heat box at about 160 to 180 degrees for 3 hours and then let it come back to room temperature and its fully cured then. I usually let it rest till the next day before I string it up though.
When i put overlays on later I set the heat box to about 100 degrees so as not to degrade the epoxy taking it back to the original temperature.
What you might want to do is make yourself a mini heat box, you can do this with a large coffee can and a small light bulb inside or easier yet position the knife so you can position a small desk light on it. Be carefull though, a regular incadesent light bulb puts out a lot of heat, so you will just have to play with it to get it right. In my big heat box its heated with four 200 watt bulbs and will get to a couple of hundred degrees in no time, course its unsulated.

Jerry Fisher
 
I have noticed that some epoxi does not harden well with exotic woods like cocobolo and other rosewoods. I would guess that the natural oils in that wood effects the glue could this be your problem?
 
I know it's a chemical reaction, but wasn't sure if there was any byproduct of that reaction that needs to evaporate off to complete drying/curing.

I should have mentioned that the handles are canvas micarta in this case, so I don't think oil is an issue but I'm not sure exactly what micarta is made of.

I think I will give the light bulb a try, as it's still a bit tacky this morning and we're approaching 48 hours.

Thanks all!
 
Hmm, now coming up on 72 hours and still feels a little tacky. I haven't gotten around to the light bulb trick yet, but I've warmed it a couple of times with a hair dryer.

Shall I go ahead and work it, or is it best to wait it out until it feels like it's complete?
 
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