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It seems like you've found what you need then. Those husky's have gone UP in quality since the GB acquisition. You'd be good going with one of those.
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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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Good hatchet for camping?
- Thread starter agoutihead
- Start date
It seems like you've found what you need then. Those husky's have gone UP in quality since the GB acquisition. You'd be good going with one of those.
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I have a Kelly Axe and Mfg Co hatchet with a 12" handle from the early 1900s that I would stack up against anything out there today. When I have used it, it is something else. Total price - $18.
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Heres another vote for the older hatchets..Kelly, bluegrass, Plumb, etc..For the most part the steel they are made from is superior to most modern hatchets..Even the legendary Gransfors are made from plain ol' 1050 carbon steel.They are just held to higher standards than other modern axes..Ive re-forged worn out older hatchets for customers before that I know were at least in the 1065- 1075 range...
From a smiths point of veiw Id say find a good ol' american or possibly a swiss hatchet and have at it..Less money than the gerbers and estwings. Not to mention better hatchets..
From a smiths point of veiw Id say find a good ol' american or possibly a swiss hatchet and have at it..Less money than the gerbers and estwings. Not to mention better hatchets..
From another thread on this same issue. An e-mail from an Estwing rep, in response to the question of what steel their tools are made of:
"Our tools are manufactured from 1055 carbon steel, special bar quality, and heat treated to ASME safety requirements, which is 45-60 Rockwell standard."
I haven't ever had any issues with how well they chop or cut; and one of the reasons I like the 26" handled one is because the handle is round farther up the shaft, enabling one to choke up on it if necessary. Got mine for $30 on sale at Home Depot a couple of years ago.
The one-piece steel tool is also full tang, all the way through the handle.
In any event, its primary advantage is obviously durability. Some have commented that the likelihood of wooden or polymer handles breaking during use is not that great; but breakage during use is not my biggest concern. I want to know if I'm on an extended trip, far from the nearest ACE hardware, that virtually anything could happen to my axe/hatchet, and I wouldn't be up a creek without heat or cooking ability.
This thing would survive a fall onto rocks that would shatter the wood and polymer handles of other tools. It would survive if rocks, trees, or logs fell on it; whereas the other materials might not. I've seen the wooden handles of hammers, hatchets, and axes all crack simply from improper or imperfect strikes... that is virtually impossible with an Estwing.
Bottom line, if I'm just using the tool in a casual manner or mild locale, where replacement is a simple feat, just about anything will do. But if I'm really out in the sticks for the long haul, where I'm not going to be doing any shopping any time soon and replacement or repair isn't an option, in an environment where the tool is absolutely vital, I want indestructible... and not just from me, but also from Mother Nature.
As is the case with most tools, I guess the best choice really depends on intended uses and needs.
"Our tools are manufactured from 1055 carbon steel, special bar quality, and heat treated to ASME safety requirements, which is 45-60 Rockwell standard."
I haven't ever had any issues with how well they chop or cut; and one of the reasons I like the 26" handled one is because the handle is round farther up the shaft, enabling one to choke up on it if necessary. Got mine for $30 on sale at Home Depot a couple of years ago.
The one-piece steel tool is also full tang, all the way through the handle.
In any event, its primary advantage is obviously durability. Some have commented that the likelihood of wooden or polymer handles breaking during use is not that great; but breakage during use is not my biggest concern. I want to know if I'm on an extended trip, far from the nearest ACE hardware, that virtually anything could happen to my axe/hatchet, and I wouldn't be up a creek without heat or cooking ability.
This thing would survive a fall onto rocks that would shatter the wood and polymer handles of other tools. It would survive if rocks, trees, or logs fell on it; whereas the other materials might not. I've seen the wooden handles of hammers, hatchets, and axes all crack simply from improper or imperfect strikes... that is virtually impossible with an Estwing.
Bottom line, if I'm just using the tool in a casual manner or mild locale, where replacement is a simple feat, just about anything will do. But if I'm really out in the sticks for the long haul, where I'm not going to be doing any shopping any time soon and replacement or repair isn't an option, in an environment where the tool is absolutely vital, I want indestructible... and not just from me, but also from Mother Nature.
As is the case with most tools, I guess the best choice really depends on intended uses and needs.
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I recently bought a Fiskars X7 14" Hatchet.
I've only used it on a couple ocassions, so far very impressed. It's light weight and comfortable to swing. It came sharp, although I can see it does have a fine edge and may need some maintenance.
Looking at the pictures of damaged plastic handles, I imagine that would be from log splitting. I've used it more for taking branches off fallen branches in preparing kindling, and in the garden for things a bit bigger than the pruner can manage.
I can see that for survivalist purposes, one piece steel, or the tomahawk head that will fit on any old stick has appeal, but for a weekend warrior like myself, the Fiskars seems great.
p.s. I've carried a full sized Fiskar's axe in the 4wd for some time, but fortunately it's seen little use.
I've only used it on a couple ocassions, so far very impressed. It's light weight and comfortable to swing. It came sharp, although I can see it does have a fine edge and may need some maintenance.
Looking at the pictures of damaged plastic handles, I imagine that would be from log splitting. I've used it more for taking branches off fallen branches in preparing kindling, and in the garden for things a bit bigger than the pruner can manage.
I can see that for survivalist purposes, one piece steel, or the tomahawk head that will fit on any old stick has appeal, but for a weekend warrior like myself, the Fiskars seems great.
p.s. I've carried a full sized Fiskar's axe in the 4wd for some time, but fortunately it's seen little use.
45-60 is a huge range. 45 is not very hard. 60 is. Wonder if they don't want to say what they actually do, or if they aren't very precise from batch to batch.
BRab
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Agreed, I am always suspicious when I see such a broad RC range, especially since I doubt they are differentially hardened. Anyone know for sure? I have one that I am considering putting in vinegar to find out. At least they say what steel they use, I wish more companies did that.
Could you explain that? Putting your axe in vinegar is going to determine the RC rating??
BRab
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Not RC, it will just show if it is differentially hardened because the steel near the edge would be a different color. The harder steel will come out darker than the softer steel because of the acidity of the vinegar.
I own 3 hardware store hatchets/axe's. A straight handled double bit axe. An Eastwing 26" axe. A Lowes hatchet w/yellow plastic/resin handle. None of them came from the store with my definition of a sharp blade. I have beat the snot out of them, used & abused them. The Eastwing, IMO is good. It does its job. Just dont use it along with a 3lb hammer to split firewood. It will flair out the hammer side after awhile. They all chop just fine for me after i sharpened them. Will they shave paper ? You betcha. Will the edge last as long as an expensive axe/hatchet ? Probably not but IDK for sure. They are easy to resharpen though. Get what you want. Start cheap. If you no likey, then get a better one. Keep repeating this process until you are happy as a clam ! LOL 
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Peter Hartwig
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I just was on another forum and saw that the Gerber combo is being recalled
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml11/11182.html?tab=recalls
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml11/11182.html?tab=recalls
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Not big on hatchets ('till recently that is), but I've been pleased using this when camping (no need for heavy duty axe for me)
estwing
cold steel frontier hawk
I'm seriously considering a 13" husqvarna and maybe a 19" wetterlings when I'll get some $$ to spare. Don't really need them, just find them very ... appealing.
Besides, I wanna see what is all this fuss about...
estwing
cold steel frontier hawk
I'm seriously considering a 13" husqvarna and maybe a 19" wetterlings when I'll get some $$ to spare. Don't really need them, just find them very ... appealing
.Besides, I wanna see what is all this fuss about...
I read the notice. It's the knife combo version that's recalled, not the saw version. Guess what, the knife can fall out whilst your chopping, who would have "thunk it".
Still, if the design is for the knife to be held securely, and it isn't, then a recall seems appropriate. That's different in my mind from saying, this thing is sharp, and too dangerous for the public to use, which was my pre-conception of the announcement.
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Estwing makes a lot of tools. I took the rep's quote to mean that different tools are treated to different hardnesses, based on the intended use of the tool.
Did you ever notice the warning stickers on new framing and finish hammers, cautioning you against striking another hammer or prybar or screw or anything that's not a soft wire nail? Good framing hammers are relatively hard, and can chip if you pound them on steel or concrete or masonry. Sledgehammers and engineers hammers are designed to hit steel and other hard materials, and are softer than a framing hammer, making them less likely to chip when pounding steel fenceposts or knocking holes in walls.
JR
BRab
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Yeah that makes sense, the rep was talking about "tools" not just "axes."
Haha, when I first saw that design I thought, "If I buy that, every time I'd swing it the knife would slide out and slit my throat."
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I'd VERY much like to know where you heard that...
While GB doesn't disclose their specific steel, it's definitely not plain ol' 1050. A swedish member here named cegga (who forges some amazing axes by the way) has said that the steel he uses for his axes is the same as what GB, Wetterlings, and Hults Bruks uses - I can't remember what the name of the steel was, just that it was in the sandvik naming format (like 14c28 or what-have-you) and that cegga said that it was essentially the swedish version of L6.
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Do you frequently camp in the middle of a highway?
knives-are-quiet
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The old school tools are well built better than any new ones.
Take a look at the way a new home is built these days and then look at a 90 to 100 year one--> "Hello".
I have used many different camp hatchets over the years and finally found the right one that fits me.
It is not even a camping hatchet but an old True Temper Genuine Underhill lath hatchet from the early 1900's.
It is light weight, easy to carry, has a 10" hickory handle, keeps a razors edge and is made of that old world steel that doesn't even scratch.
I suggest a vintage hatchet.
Take a look at the way a new home is built these days and then look at a 90 to 100 year one--> "Hello".
I have used many different camp hatchets over the years and finally found the right one that fits me.
It is not even a camping hatchet but an old True Temper Genuine Underhill lath hatchet from the early 1900's.
It is light weight, easy to carry, has a 10" hickory handle, keeps a razors edge and is made of that old world steel that doesn't even scratch.
I suggest a vintage hatchet.