Good Iron Wood Source?

R

rlinger

Joined
Mar 29, 2002
Messages
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, and should I get it stabilized for use on a tactical out door knife?

Thanks.

RL
 
Sandy Tudor from Arizona has the best selection/prices....Pops sells Sandy's stuff as well, if you can't locate Sandy.

Nope, it does not need to be stabilized.....tough enough already. I love working with it for that reason alone, not to mention all the pretty figure. Desert Ironwood is a favorite of my customers as well.

Thanks for all your help to me in the past Mr. Linger. Take care.
 
no need to stabilize it - quite dense already. Won't really change it. At least, that's what I've been told.
 
godogs57,

Mr. Linger don't make knives. He is a master wood worker that lives a few miles from me and I have always called him dad. I'm just plain ol'Roger :eek:

Thanks all for the leads. I'll try to run'em down.

I have never worked iron wood but remember being warned about the dust danger because of naturally produced pesticides(??).

RL
 
It's great stuff Roger. It took me awhile to justify paying $30-40.00 for a block of wood but, once you use it, you fall in love with it. I'm assuming you'll be using scales which are easier to get ahold of than blocks like I normally use. The stuff does clog up belts and bits but, it's a great finish to all the work that goes into a good knife.

I couldn't find any info for Sandy but, I've gotten his Ironwood from Pop's before. Does anyone know if you can see Sandy's blocks/scales before buying them or how to get ahold of him? I hate buying wood without seeing it first.
 
Thanks. I'll do a short search for Sandy and then call Pop's. Yeah, I'll be making scales.

RL
 
Roger,

For What Its worth: Sandy is always at the Blade show each year. I have a business card somewhere...will tear the shop apart to find it hopefully.

Regarding working with desert ironwood. I always wthout fail do two things when working with it: 1) My "attic fan" in my shop window is on high to keep things ventilated, although it is not as bad as cocobolo dust....to me anyway. Sort of like when I am flat grinding stag in my shop...if the air aint moving stuff out of the shop, I will pay the price. And 2) I always bite the bullet and use completely new belts to sand it, no exceptions. Usually, you can use a belt on handle shaping that may not be brand new, but still have a good bit of life left...know what I mean? Not so with ironwood...got to be spank brand new, or you will burn the wood for sure.

My two cents worth from someone that probably is nowhere as experienced as the average poster on this forum...
 
I seem to remember Rene had some very nice presentation grade about a year ago, maybe there's more where that came from... if he'll share his source ;)
 
Mike,

I read through the thread Chuck recommended. I found two links there I liked. One for the more plain Jane wood and one (Arizona Ironwood) for the higher dollar stuff. I sent links to my prospect for his advise. Thank you and Chuck Burrows for that.

RL
 
Roger, that's really cool about your dad! I can see where you get your wood skills and stock making know how.
 
Bill_H said:
I seem to remember Rene had some very nice presentation grade about a year ago, maybe there's more where that came from... if he'll share his source ;)
Click to expand...

Very slim chance on that, Bro. Rene's pretty tight-lipped about his ironwood......but I've seen a few of his "in person" that are tremendous!
 
Ironwood does not need to be stabilized. It is probably my favorite wood for handles. J. Neilson made me a camp style custom that has the best looking ironwood I've ever seen, wish I could post a pic of that custom.
I use my knives hard and have never had any problems with ironwood!
 
This one?
bola%20ironwood%202.JPG

Doing another similar to this right now. This is great wood Roger, you'll get hooked on it, I'm sure.
 
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