Goofed up my plunge line post HT

shamu

shamu

Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
217
So, earlier knife #1 was a personal success. I went ahead and brought myself back to reality by goofin' up knife #2. While cleaning up the decarb on my grinder I ruined my plunge line. I'm grateful for the learning opportunity, but was curious what you guys think i can do better next time? I suspect i should have hand sanded this bugger post HT.

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It is not ruined.

Back up the plunge a bit and do it again.
 
I was concerned i'd ruin the HT. What belt would you recommend for something like this?
 
I JUST redid a plunge line on a post HT yesterday... and it still had the scales on, lol. i was making a knife for my uncle but didn't like the final outcome, so i ground in a choil and centered the plunge line on it and it came out fine. just don't use gloves and keep it cool enough to be hand held and you won't ruin anything. keep your grit as fine as you can and use a new belt so you don't heat up your steel too much.

good luck.

Royce
 
Use a brand new 100 grit belt.

Many people grind the entire bevel post ht. You will be fine.
 
Thanks all...i'll report back w/the results in a few days or so (eg; whenever the kids/work give me more knife time)
 
I'm not done yet -- I need to work up in the grit progression, polish, and sharpen. Here's a quick update and some thoughts:

1. hsc/// helped me square away the plunge cuts by sending me some tailored videos of a grinder technique. Thanks hsc///
2. corby bolts took me FOREVER to grind down. i obviously went too far on 1 corby, but not sure how i could have avoid this mistake.
3. the crack in the ironwood scale may be from over tightening the corbys or aggressively hammering the scales on at glue-up time. anyone have thoughts on which is more likely?
4. i gouged my blade pretty good, and have no idea how i did it. i stopped trying to fix it because i thought i may make things worse. thoughts?
5. i hate working/smelling ironwood. it looks/feels great, but this is likely my final ironwood handle.
6. my bolsters didn't quite sit flush. i'm not sure if the epoxy or HT changed things slightly, but i was foolish not to test them before glue-up.
7. i used brass bolster pins because that's all i had, but i dig the look.

Thanks all. I definitely learned a lot so far.

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shamu said:
i obviously went too far on 1 corby, but not sure how i could have avoid this mistake.
Click to expand...

Drill the corby hole deeper. Look at how much of the corby barrel on the one and the threads stick out and figure out how much you need to grind them down to fit the tang once assembled.

Many times if you leave the barrel to long or the threads the corby will not seat deep enough so you grind down to much of the body as a result.
 
Adam is right. I set my counter bore so that I have about .040" of material left in my handle material(not the liners)once I drill it out. I grind my handles thin and sometimes the threads of my corby bolts will bottom out before they bottom out in my scales. If this happens you can shorten both the male and female end a little. After grinding the female end down thread a new male end into it to straighten the first threads out. After grinding a male end just thread it into a new female end.
 
shamu said:
I'm not done yet -- I need to work up in the grit progression, polish, and sharpen. Here's a quick update and some thoughts:

1. hsc/// helped me square away the plunge cuts by sending me some tailored videos of a grinder technique. Thanks hsc///
Click to expand...

happy to provide some assistance
like the rest of your work over time, it will become easier and your plunges will look better
 
Nice looking work and a tough project! I think you did great with it.

My tip would be to get some 1" wide scalloped belts and work on the underside of the bolster/bottom side of scales and into the scales to round it a bit more.
 
I really like your knife and I think you did a great job. As for your bolsters not being flush, I'll take a stab at that. This theory also pertains to full handle scales without bolsters.

When did you drill the holes for your bolsters? It appears that you have a nice distal taper going on from the pic looking down at the spine. If you drill holes before you taper or the holes end up out of alignment, you can end up with this problem. I always try and ensure my taper begins ahead of the front of the handle material so I minimize the possibility of that little space at the front of the handle. Otherwise, when you put the pins through everything, they hold it all in place and you can't close that gap in the front. I feel like I'm rambling...and hoping that makes some level of sense?

The last full tang I did, I tapered the tang and the blade. But, I was sure to run the taper of the tang up past where I knew the front of the scales would be. I cheat and use a big fat sharpie to mark both sides of the knife to help me see exactly where I'm at on tapering. Hope some of that helps. Again, nice work.

Jeremy
 
that makes perfect sense gudspelr -- in fact that is probably what happened. thank you
 
Great, just need to fix'er up a bit. I didn't ruin your awesome HT, but I did get beat up by a single corby bolt. Thanks again JT!
 
I know dozens of knifemaker that grind the blades after heat treatment, without any problem. I also after the TT finish the grinding starting over with new belt from 40 grit (before TT finish my blades to 70%).

Riccardo Mainolfi
 
Not a problem at all. I enjoyed working with your knives. Thoes Corbys can get tricky but as long as you take your time and measure everything out thy are not to bad.
 
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