Got 7 'new' tools!!!

G

Glock17JHP

Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
621
Got 7 'new' tools!!!
Actually... they are not new, they are used... but intact 100%...
4 of the tools are hatchets, 3 are tools with a blade opposite a 'hammer head' of sorts... the hammer head business-end surface is 'textured' like a framing hammer head is... so maybe these 3 tools are for roofing or something?

I will post pictures of all 7 tools ASAP right here...
Then... I am expecting some input or info from some of you!!!
 
OK... I took digital pictures of what looks to be 4 hatchets, and 3 hammers...
Some have things stamped, or marked on them... wifey is writing it down, her eyes are better...
I will post this additional info ASAP...
But for now...
Here are the images of the 4 hatchets (poor background color choice, sorry)...

MVC-591F.jpg


MVC-592F.jpg


MVC-593F.jpg


MVC-594F.jpg


And here are the hammers...

MVC-595F.jpg


MVC-596F.jpg


MVC-597F.jpg
 
I don't know anything about them yet, but I like the 1st and 3rd hatchets the most, so far...
Perhaps I will need to re-take the pictures outdoors in sunlight...
 
The third one looks like it might be an older Collins "Homestead" hatchet. The hammer headed ones are carpenter's and/or shinglers's hatchets, I believe.
 
Blue Sky,

You are correct... I took a closer look after reading your post, and there is a partial sticker on the left side of the head (when viewing from the rear of the head) that backs this up... I can see the last few letters of the name 'Collins'... the sticker is shiny silver in color... As for the name 'Homestead', not sure about that part...
 
Blue Sky,

I am asking on a separate post about restoration of these 4 hatchets... if you could give input, please go there...
 
Nice collection, Glock17JHP!

Blue Sky is right, the last three are hatchets too.

#5 is a so called half hatchet:

http://www.vaughanmfg.com/prof_frameset.html


#6 is most likely a kind of lath hatchet or lathing hatchet, similar to the Plumb California Lath Hatchet:

http://www.amazon.com/Plumb-11544P-Expert-California-Hatchet/dp/B000787WL0


#7 is a shingling hatchet.


For some old Plumb models and patterns see the "An Axe to Grind" axe manual:

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/fspubs/99232823/page07.htm#other

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/fspubs/99232823/page08.htm
 
I like the info... I am new to hatchets...
I want to restore them to 'working' condition (rust removal, wood cleaned up a bit, etc.). Any suggestions?
 
I have not done restoration of old tools before, but I would avoid, if possible, the use of power tools while cleaning up the steel heads.

First I would check the hatchets for tightness of the head-handle connection.
If the original handles appear to be sound and the connection tight enough, there is probably no need to replace the handles and rehang the hatchets.

Sand paper, frequent stops, and a lot of elbow grease will remove the rust. Tape up the edge, to protect your hand, and use gloves.

After you've cleaned up the heads, you can move on to the handles. When you have sanded them too, you may wish to soak the head or even the whole hatchet in linseed oil for a week or two (read older posts here about fire hazard, rags and combustion!) to swell the wood fibers and improve the moisture-related stability of the wood. Older posts in this and other forums (e.g. Himalayan Imports Forum here on BF) would direct you to what kind of oil is the best (raw linseed, etc.).

After this step, you may chose to sand lightly the handle surface and then apply several coats of finish (boiled linseed oil, tung oil etc.) to produce a more wear resistant coating. Besides improving the looks, it also helps to preserve better the tool.

Finally, don't store your tools in a very dry or very humid enviroment, or in a place with huge temperature and humidity oscillations.
 
Well, littleknife saved me a lot of typing, he covered it pretty well.:) I will second the "soak the head in linseed oil" tip. Since I've been doing that, the results have been noticeably better. Over all, a little sanding and an oil finish and you'll be pleasantly surprised at the change. If you do decide to re-fit the handle, take your time, it's worth it.
 
The handles are all real tight...
If I sand, should I use steel wool? Or, is sand paper the best? Emery cloth?
And what grit size, etc...
Forgive me, I am detail-oriented... my wife calls it a 'sickness'...
 
To get paint or varnish off, use a coarse sandpaper (80 grit?) and a light touch, otherwise it will load up and glaze over too quickly. Once it's all off you can start going lighter. I think I stopped at 150, it's an axe after all. If you want a finer finish, just keep going. I avoid steel wool on bare wood personally after I had a problem with metal particles imbedding thmemselves. Other people use it though, so maybe I was just doing something wrong.
 
Blue Sky,

I wasn't asking about steel wool for the wood, I thought maybe for the metal...
Your advice on the wood makes sense, and the words you use communicate very clearly to me... thanks!!!
How about what to do for the metal, though? It is light rust, it appears... what grit should I use there?
And then should I do the linseed oil treatment to the entire hatchet after sanding the metal and the wood?
 
Glock17JHP said:
I wasn't asking about steel wool for the wood, I thought maybe for the metal...
Click to expand...

Sorry, fine steel wool is sometimes used as one of the last steps in wood finishing, and that's what I was thinking about. It will buff the head out nicely after you're done sanding, but I wouldn't use it in place of sandpaper at the earlier stages.

Glock17JHP said:
And then should I do the linseed oil treatment to the entire hatchet after sanding the metal and the wood?
Click to expand...

I would, it puts a nice looking, protective finish on the handle. On the metal though, it will dry to a tacky-ish film that I didn't like and sanded off. Probably would have protected it though...

Here's an older Collins Homestead that has a Linseed finish, sanded head (still a little rough) and convex edge:


Not the greatest pic, but you can see some of the pits I was talking about earlier. It did kindling duty last winter for my fireplace and split a lot of wood. Nice little axe. I think I'm going to paint the head again and use it as my walking around axe this fall, if I can make an edge guard for it in time.

Thanks for the kind words, glad I was able to help you out is some small way.:)
 
By the way, #4 is a Kelly Tommyhawk

They made them both with and without the nail puller on the poll. I have one without the nail puller that I have hung on a very short handle. I use it for rough shaping of wood.
 
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