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Got a new Spyderco today - need some help

The benchmade blues are not hardened either. A large knife store gave me and my buddy one when we went to buy a knife and he sheered three of the bits in the first day. I ended up going to radio shack and getting a torx bit set. Cost me around 20 or a little more but it has been going strong for well over a year.
 
The Kobalt torx driver set in the pic in post # 7 is made in China..............

I have a Husky torx driver set, it works great.
 
You could also try placing an elastic band over the screw before using the too-small bit. Never tried it myself, but apparently it works in some cases.
 
Well now I'm absolutely furious.

I got the Wiha bit driver today to loosen up the pivot screw, but it didn't work. That pivot screw is stuck tight like it's been arc welded into place, and not only did I wind up stripping out the screw, making disassembly absolutely impossible now, I wound up stripping out the Wiha as well. So much for them being one of the best, because now I'm screwed on this deal.
 
Well now I'm absolutely furious.

I got the Wiha bit driver today to loosen up the pivot screw, but it didn't work. That pivot screw is stuck tight like it's been arc welded into place, and not only did I wind up stripping out the screw, making disassembly absolutely impossible now, I wound up stripping out the Wiha as well. So much for them being one of the best, because now I'm screwed on this deal.

Before attempting to loosen a stuck factory pivot screw in the future, I would use a hair dryer or a similar method to heat up the pivot screw. Spyderco uses blue Loctite and it can be a bit stubborn the first time, and the heat will loosen it up.

Ask me how I know...
 
Sorry about your mishap with your knife.

Just wanted to say that I have had a very good experience with my Wiha torx set; perhaps this was circumstantial.

~ edge
 
Likely the same way that I know.

This is so not gonna be covered by the factory warranty.

A stripped screw?

Shoot Spyderco an email or give them a call. Their CS department is small (Charlynn), but they're awesome. They've helped me out of this exact same jam before.

But, I should mention that was with a Para 2, something they made in Golden. I don't know if they necessarily stock replacement screws for knives made elsewhere. That said, it's worth a shot.

Otherwise, there are ways to remove stripped screws. I'm not very good at it, but someone else might come along that is.
 
So how do you go about removing a screw that's been completely stripped out? We're talking the torx pattern being totally rounded out; just like the driver itself now. The only thing I can think of is drilling it out, and that's just begging for trouble.

And even if Spyderco's warranty is on the Cara2 in full force, I'm still back to needing a good T6 torx bit driver, and as I've learned the hard way, the Wiha isn't even worth the cardboard it's packaged in.
 
Shoot Spyderco an email or give them a call. Their CS department is small (Charlynn), but they're awesome. They've helped me out of this exact same jam before.
But, I should mention that was with a Para 2, something they made in Golden. I don't know if they necessarily stock replacement screws for knives made elsewhere. That said, it's worth a shot.
Not sure if the Taiwan made Gayle Bradley uses the same screws, but Charlynn replied to my email saying she would get some mailed out to me. I bought the knife used and noticed a handle screw missing after a week of carry and use. After this, I checked tightness of the other screws and 2 others were not tight. Guess I should have checked them when it was recieved.
... the Wiha isn't even worth the cardboard it's packaged in.
Don't know which wiha driver you got, but the ones I posted above are very good.

There are ways to cleanly get the boogered screw out, with the right tools...
I suggest you send it in and give their customer service a try.
 
There are ways to cleanly get the boogered screw out, with the right tools...
I suggest you send it in and give their customer service a try.

For other models that would make sense, but that doesn't really apply here. From the Spyderco website: http://www.spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/index.php?item=10

For the following repairs please include $20.00USD plus $5.00USD for shipping and handling

Blade or edge- Broken tip from prying or dropping, chipped edge or broken serrations, destroyed edge due to improper sharpening, rust due to neglect or other blade issues. Spyderco does not replace blades. Depending on the blade’s condition we may be able to re-profile or re-serrate.

Clips and clip screws- sheared off screws or broken FRN integral clips (can only be replaced with metal clips).

Handle- Missing Kraton inserts or other handle issues.

It costs more than the Cara2's market value to have it looked at for a broken screw. For those prices I could just buy a brand new one. But I'm still back at square one; needing a good torx driver that's not going to strip itself out the very first time it's used.
 
It costs more than the Cara2's market value to have it looked at for a broken screw. For those prices I could just buy a brand new one. But I'm still back at square one; needing a good torx driver that's not going to strip itself out the very first time it's used.
Well, you might call them and discuss the issue before coming to conclusions, you never know.
As for a torx driver better than the wiha, the only thing that might be better, is Snap-On.
 
So how do you go about removing a screw that's been completely stripped out? We're talking the torx pattern being totally rounded out; just like the driver itself now. The only thing I can think of is drilling it out, and that's just begging for trouble.

And even if Spyderco's warranty is on the Cara2 in full force, I'm still back to needing a good T6 torx bit driver, and as I've learned the hard way, the Wiha isn't even worth the cardboard it's packaged in.

Well, all tools have their breaking point. Next time be sure to heat it up to loosen the Loctite so it doesn't happen again.

Not sure if the Taiwan made Gayle Bradley uses the same screws, but Charlynn replied to my email saying she would get some mailed out to me

Good to know. Just goes to show that OP is best off calling them up.
 
Don't blame the wiha. As others have mentioned, the screws are glued in. You needed to heat them up first. If you didn't do that, it's your fault. Not the drivers.
 
To add to that, torx screws can be a bit finicky. You need to hold the driver completely perpendicular to the knife. Anything other than a 90 and you risk stripping it.
 
I use the Husky set pictured in this thread and have had no trouble.

Must revise my statement. I just used my Husky set for about the 40th time and the teeth on one of the bits started to fold over while trying to loosen a tight screw on the frame of one of my Bokers. Looks like I'm upgrading to hardened bits now.
 
Well in my own defense, not a single one of the screws on my Tenacious were glued into place. Each of them came out without any strain or difficulty, and went back just the same.
 
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