I recently got a new Evenheat. I've been doing some searching of stainless steels but from what I've seen most need a cryo treatment. Any suggestions? I'd like to try some stainless and if I need cryo I'll get the stuff to do it. Just wanted to broaden my horizons and have something different to offer people. Anyone wanna guide me into the realm of stainless!?! Thanks guys!
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Got an Evenheat, now what!?!
- Thread starter NickBoyle
- Start date
High temp S.S foil and a cheap Walmart cooler.Lately I've been getting the dry ice pellets directly from Airgas($1 a pound + $5 hazmat fee) $16.20 total for a heavy 10 pounds.I like to soak over night and once in between tempers.(only for an hour)Tip to make the ice last take up the air space inside the cooler by packing with old rags,cardboard ect.Good luck,Lu. Congrats on the oven! Almost forgot Aluminum quench plates.
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Lo/Rez I was looking at the AEB- L and I've noticed a lot of people like it. There's a few welding supply places near me so the dry ice shouldn't be an issue at all. Will a dry ice slurry work for the cryo on most stainless steels that require it? Or do some need to be colder? As you can tell I have no experience with stainless as a knife steel. Now welding stainless is a different story! Tig,mig,stick, I'm your guy, making a knife out of it, clueless!
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2011
- Messages
- 259
There has definitely been a lot of helpful information stated, but definitely consider if it's more cost efficient to just send the blanks out to a reputable company. From what I have gathered from knowledgable individuals in this field is that sub-zero treatment converts some retained austenite to martensite, but cryo treating may convert even more. Praxair and Airgas hubs that pump liquid nitrogen usually have dewars available for rental purposes.
I do believe that Bohler recommends that Elmax and M390 receive true cryo treatments.
I do believe that Bohler recommends that Elmax and M390 receive true cryo treatments.
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- Joined
- Dec 6, 2011
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- 244
AEB-L is good with a sub-zero quench as most data says it needs to get to -95F. I use dry ice and denatured alcohol. AEB-L has become one of my favorite steels.
There is a difference between sub-zero and cryo. For steels that benefit from a full cryo you will need to use liquid nitrogen. See if it's readily available in your area and talk with the suppliers if there are some. Some suppliers are okay with dispensing a small amount into a quality thermos as long as the lid has been vented. LN, like dry ice, sublimates and the volume of vapor is far greater than the solid form, and without venting you get a boom. Some suppliers will require a LN dewar to dispense in to. Some suppliers rent dewars, but from my experience they are usually fairly large units designed for holding a fair amount of bull semen. You can buy a new dewar or look for a used one on places like Ebay. Most dewars have small mouths, with 50mm being most common. If there is the possibility of treating knives like chef's knives in your future it may be worth looking for a wide mouth dewar so the larger blades will fit through the mouth. Typically the larger the dewar the longer it will keep LN. Dewars aren't inexpensive but treated well should have a long life.
There is a difference between sub-zero and cryo. For steels that benefit from a full cryo you will need to use liquid nitrogen. See if it's readily available in your area and talk with the suppliers if there are some. Some suppliers are okay with dispensing a small amount into a quality thermos as long as the lid has been vented. LN, like dry ice, sublimates and the volume of vapor is far greater than the solid form, and without venting you get a boom. Some suppliers will require a LN dewar to dispense in to. Some suppliers rent dewars, but from my experience they are usually fairly large units designed for holding a fair amount of bull semen. You can buy a new dewar or look for a used one on places like Ebay. Most dewars have small mouths, with 50mm being most common. If there is the possibility of treating knives like chef's knives in your future it may be worth looking for a wide mouth dewar so the larger blades will fit through the mouth. Typically the larger the dewar the longer it will keep LN. Dewars aren't inexpensive but treated well should have a long life.
Busto
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Jul 26, 2011
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- 4,234
AEB-L is a good starting point for your first attempt with SS its reasonable and finishes easily after heat treat. If this is going to be an ongoing quest for Stainless Steel heat treating I would recommend looking for a used Dewar and they are available with a wide mouth a must for wide blades. I would recommend also investing in a Rockwell hardness tester because you can invest in all the Heat Treat equipment, but without a way to test for actual hardness there is no verifiable data to ensure you hit the RC for optimum performance.
Thanks for all the information everyone. Busto I have a Rockwell tester. Well it's am Ames portable tester but it actually works really well for me. I think I'll order some AEB-L and see what I can make happen! I've read different heat treats and from what I've gathered I need some aluminum quench plates for this steel correct? Alpha's site says oil, plate or air quench...any input or recommendations on this?
Dry ice is fine. There is a thread somewhere on here where I posted what a metallurgist at Crucible told me over the phone one day. Dry ice is sufficient even for S35VN. I use denatured alcohol with mine.