Got bored again.. and did something about it.

Thanks man. The stripper did a lot of the work. I just sanded it down to a decent satin (150, 300, and stopped at 400)

Here's the stuff I used.. stuff turns Crinkle to goo basically after like 2 coats.. drys super fast too.

View attachment 2147584


I appreciate that man! This deep patina is pretty sturdy as well. I batoned through a couple logs today and it didn't do too awful much to it.
that stuff will melt the paint off a speedboat
 
Here it is, at the end of the patina contest thread.


I’ll see if I can find a couple old pics where I did just the blade on some older Swamp Wardens…

ETA - Here’s one:

https://www.bladeforums.com/account/th-attachment-manager/774665/view

ETA2 - And a couple more of another one (the bottom one):

https://www.bladeforums.com/account/th-attachment-manager/779798/view

https://www.bladeforums.com/account/th-attachment-manager/779797/view
I meant to come back and reply to this but forgot until now, sorry about that.

Thank you for sharing those. I especially love that you darkened the exposure in the patina contest example to make the knife appear as it does in real life. A man who is paying attention to details, my kind of guy! Sometimes I feel like perhaps I'm a bit obsessive about things like that but I care about the details and accuracy and such, so it's nice to see others who are of similar mind.

You explanation in that same post was great on how you boiled the knife, but I'm wondering, for knives with the Res-c handles, unless you have a really tall or deep pot, it's probably not possible to force a patina like that unless you're willing to boil the handle at the same time, right? I'd imagine that's not a good idea for a number of reasons.

Is one basically left to go about it as the OP has done?

I'm getting inspired to do my first forced patina at some point but would like to try the more uniform method first with the blade submerged in hot vinegar but the handle is creating a hurdle I haven't yet figured out how to overcome short of getting a really deep pot.

Lastly, SR-101 is obvious why you'd patina it, but what about INFI? Has anyone tried it and how did it turn out? Surely it's been tried before. Does it work as well as SR-101 despite having higher free Chromium in the mix?
 
I meant to come back and reply to this but forgot until now, sorry about that.

Thank you for sharing those. I especially love that you darkened the exposure in the patina contest example to make the knife appear as it does in real life. A man who is paying attention to details, my kind of guy! Sometimes I feel like perhaps I'm a bit obsessive about things like that but I care about the details and accuracy and such, so it's nice to see others who are of similar mind.

You explanation in that same post was great on how you boiled the knife, but I'm wondering, for knives with the Res-c handles, unless you have a really tall or deep pot, it's probably not possible to force a patina like that unless you're willing to boil the handle at the same time, right? I'd imagine that's not a good idea for a number of reasons.

Is one basically left to go about it as the OP has done?

I'm getting inspired to do my first forced patina at some point but would like to try the more uniform method first with the blade submerged in hot vinegar but the handle is creating a hurdle I haven't yet figured out how to overcome short of getting a really deep pot.

Lastly, SR-101 is obvious why you'd patina it, but what about INFI? Has anyone tried it and how did it turn out? Surely it's been tried before. Does it work as well as SR-101 despite having higher free Chromium in the mix?
Infi isn't stainless, but "near" stainless. It will not patina as well as SR101. It will stain a bit though.. but it's honestly not worth the effort.

That's why 99% of the Busse related patina jobs you see done are all to SR101 (which is 52100 with a special HT). You could probably do this to SR77 (which is S7 with a special HT), but that stuff is few and far between.

They did do that one recent knife in 500100-B (also been nicknamed 0170-6 and Carbon V by some companies).. that stuff would patina really well.

They've also done stuff way back in A2 as well as D2 which also patina well. You'll be hard pressed to find their knives in these.. there are a few around but you'll spend a lot for em.
 
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You could use ferric chloride to try on INFI, I’ve done a few stainless blades (and stone washing them) and got a uniform full grey, varying in darkness on different steels.
I have applied some ferric chloride to my stripped user ASH-1, but I only brushed it on and left for a few minutes because I wanted to reduce the shine.
I’ll check if I can find any pics, but I’m away for 4 weeks, so can’t take any fresh ones for a while

Edit:
Sorry, can’t find one on my phone, but I’m pretty sure there will be at least one in the Busse & Kin pic thread… with smashed cucumbers fairly recently
 
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