Well if you can get your Case knives sharp then you know how to sharpen. So you will know the importance of getting the stone to make contact all the way to the edge of the bevel: if you are holding the knife at too shallow/ acute an angle to the stone you will not be making it all the way to the very edge, you will just be taking material away from the shoulder of the bevel. Try the sharpy trick - colour in the bevel with a marker pen so you can see if you are hitting the very edge. If not you have two choices - either keep going at your existing angle for longer, or raise the angle slightly. Once you start hitting the edge you will feel the burr forming on the opposite side. Keep feeling/ checking for the burr, then you know you're getting all the way to the very edge of the bevel.
Once you've got a burr running the full length of the edge on the opposite side to the one you've been sharpening only then do you change sides. Now keep sharpening the second side and once again feel for the burr: Once you raised the burr then flip her over and give it a couple more strokes to take off the burr which you've now formed on the side you started sharpening. Use lighter pressure at this stage. All this should be done on the course side of your stone.
Then move to the smoother side of the stone and repeat the process: sharpen until you feel a burr forming, then flip it over and sharpen this second side until once again you've got a burr going and flip it over and give a couple of light strokes to remove the burr.
On a really blunt knife that you need to re profile, which is the case here it seems, this is the only way to go in my experience. It is all about the BURR.
Nice trade btw. I would much rather have a vintage endura than a cryo.