Got my Patches

bearthedog · May 20, 2008

Here they are. New patches and new knife.

Stephan Fowler Knife

Mikel_24 · May 20, 2008

Nice! That knife looks great and the patches do as well. I am saving these three pictures... I am about to make my first blade and I like this shape a lot. Can you tell us the specs of it?
Mikel

mtnfolk mike · May 20, 2008

great pics bear...:thumbup: i love the patina on that fowler...

Troop · May 20, 2008

Nice patches and sharp, pointing thing laying over there just minding its own business.:thumbup:

texastonydobbs · May 20, 2008

Excellent pics of patches an blade.....

stephanfowler · May 20, 2008

Mikel_24 said:
Nice! That knife looks great and the patches do as well. I am saving these three pictures... I am about to make my first blade and I like this shape a lot. Can you tell us the specs of it?
Mikel

Mikel -
Steel: 1084
Thickness: 3/16
Blade: 4 1/4"
O/A: 8"
Grind: Flat with a convex edge
Finish: High grit hand polish with Hamon
Handle: Natural Canvas Micarta
Sheath: Brown Leather

Any other questions feel free to ask.

Mikel_24 · May 20, 2008

stephanfowler said:
Mikel -
Steel: 1084
Thickness: 3/16
Blade: 4 1/4"
O/A: 8"
Grind: Flat with a convex edge
Finish: High grit hand polish with Hamon
Handle: Natural Canvas Micarta
Sheath: Brown Leather

Any other questions feel free to ask.

Thanks for the info Stephan. I will start with a 5mm leaf spring and I bet it is not perfecly flat, so once I have profiled the blade andNow I have to figure out how to pseudo-flat grind a blade with... no belt sander! LOL... It is going to be a hell of a job with just an angle grinder, files, stones and sandaper.

Instead of making a full flat grind with a convex edge... I was thinking about making it a full convex grind... ala Fallkniven F1... I bet Convex grind is more forgiving. Once I remove most of the steel with the grinder and a file I may just take a dump load of 220 sandpaper and I will finish right for Christmas!...

. Any tips here?

I found some videos showing how to make a Scandi grind with just a file... I will probably make one as well but I think it is a waste of stock material to make a 30mm wide blade out of a 63mm stock... LOL. And making a 23º Scandi grind in such a wide blade seems overbuilt to me.

Ok, enough talking... sorry for highjacking the thread!
Mikel

Troop · May 20, 2008

Mikel_24 said:
Thanks for the info Stephan. I will start with a 5mm leaf spring and I bet it is not perfecly flat, so once I have profiled the blade andNow I have to figure out how to pseudo-flat grind a blade with... no belt sander! LOL... It is going to be a hell of a job with just an angle grinder, files, stones and sandaper.

Instead of making a full flat grind with a convex edge... I was thinking about making it a full convex grind... ala Fallkniven F1... I bet Convex grind is more forgiving. Once I remove most of the steel with the grinder and a file I may just take a dump load of 220 sandpaper and I will finish right for Christmas!... . Any tips here?

I found some videos showing how to make a Scandi grind with just a file... I will probably make one as well but I think it is a waste of stock material to make a 30mm wide blade out of a 63mm stock... LOL. And making a 23º Scandi grind in such a wide blade seems overbuilt to me.

Ok, enough talking... sorry for highjacking the thread!
Mikel

If you're making it with hand tools, and it sounds like you are, stick to a scandi grind...trust me. You can make it "zero edge" with a mouse pad and silicon carbide sandpaper after that pretty easily.

Mikel_24 · May 21, 2008

Troop said:
If you're making it with hand tools, and it sounds like you are, stick to a scandi grind...trust me. You can make it "zero edge" with a mouse pad and silicon carbide sandpaper after that pretty easily.

How many degrees per side do you guys recommend?
Mikel

Troop · May 21, 2008

Mikel_24 said:
How many degrees per side do you guys recommend?
Mikel

Depends on the steel and how hard you are going to use (abuse) the edge. For chopping/slicing on wood, you'd want a thicker edge. For use as a hunting knife, for slicing flesh, you might want to put a finer (thinner) edge on it.
For use on wood, you might want to go as high as 30 degrees, but for a "flesh slicer" you might want to go as low as 18-20 degrees, or even less.
You've got to figure out what works best for you. Personal preference.
If you put a "zero edge" on it, you may find that it'll slice better. If you put a scandi grind on it, then use the mousepad and sandpaper to make it a "zero edge", you're kind of putting a sort of convex grind on it. A "zero edge" is one that primary and secondary grinds are one; there's no readily distinguishable place where you can say, "Now, here is the primary grind, and here is the secondary (edge) grind."
Hope this helps you.

Mikel_24 · May 21, 2008

Troop said:
...Depends on the steel and how hard you are going to use (abuse) the edge. For chopping/slicing on wood, you'd want a thicker edge. For use as a hunting knife, for slicing flesh, you might want to put a finer (thinner) edge on it.
For use on wood, you might want to go as high as 30 degrees, but for a "flesh slicer" you might want to go as low as 18-20 degrees, or even less...

Well... it is going to be made of a leaf spring so I guess is going to be something like 5160. I have four 250x63x5mm so I won't be making choppers, that's for sure. I want to make something about the size of my BRKT Aurora (4" blade). I will use it for bushcraft and food prep. I don't hunt so I won't feel the urge of slicing much flesh either...

I will try to keep them true scandis so no mouse pad this time. My gf's father makes windows and anything out of glass so getting a tempered piece of glass to use as a backing for my sandpaper shoudn't be that hard.

I think I will make it with 12º per side for a 24º edge. I will surely let you all know how they come out.

Thanks!
Mikel