It is honestly my Fault. I did not watch any videos. I have been sharpening knives about half a Century. I do like a guided system like the Sharpmaker. I think the Wicked Edge is so unnatural. Just my opinion. Perhaps it will grow on me. If it gives me better results than terrific. The motion just seems so odd to me. I certainly cannot do it with both hands at once. I am not giving up on it. I am thinking for the price it must be better than stones and rods. So I will get proficient at it before I make a judgement. Unless a lot of you tell me I can obtain better results freehand. I will not waste my time. I got it from a Friend and he does not mind to restock it.
Got Wicked Edge Pro Pack III, What in the World?
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000Robert
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I love my WE130! I sharpened freehand most of my life and my knives would get sharp. But the edges were nowhere near perfect like the WE130 can make them.
It just takes some practice. Even freehand you can't sharpen both sides at the same time. I like how the WE130 clamps the blade so that you can work both edges of the blade without moving the clamp.
I watched a bunch of videos and read a lot of stuff on their website and forum before I received my Pro Pack III. I wouldn't trade mine for any other system.
I am a drummer so I am kinda ambidextrous and I can see how using the WE could be more difficult for most people. But just keep practicing and you'll get good at it.
It just takes some practice. Even freehand you can't sharpen both sides at the same time. I like how the WE130 clamps the blade so that you can work both edges of the blade without moving the clamp.
I watched a bunch of videos and read a lot of stuff on their website and forum before I received my Pro Pack III. I wouldn't trade mine for any other system.
I am a drummer so I am kinda ambidextrous and I can see how using the WE could be more difficult for most people. But just keep practicing and you'll get good at it.
David Martin
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I would never spend $1,250 on a knife sharpener . Just me. DM
000Robert
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I love it! The $1250 also includes a very nice fitted case. I did cry once though. They have a great resell value also. When someone puts them up for sell on the WE forum, they sell pretty quick.
I said that. I am sure I just have to learn how to use it. For the price I highly doubt that it is junk. It is just my lack of skills on it. Robert, why did you cry once? I was kind of crying a little while ago. The WE130 put a big, deep scratch on the side of a custom layered Japanese Chef's knife! Again, obviously this was my own fault. I need to go hit up YouTube.
000Robert
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Ouch, that sucks! I cried because of the price at first.
But I'm glad that I have it now. I bought some extras from a couple of guys on the WE forum. I bought some stone stops that keep the stones from going too low so that I won't scratch my blades. You can also use some rubber grommets. I used rubber grommets before I bought the stone stops.There are also some nice stone covers and micro-adjusters that extend the range of adjustment. I bought a set of the stainless steel ones. I don't think I'm allowed to link to their forum from here so just go to their forum and search, "Custom Accessories List (made by forum members)".
Watch some videos. And you should be using some knives you don't really care about while you learn and break-in the stones. It usually takes sharpening about ten knives to break-in the stones good.
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Richard338
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I have expensive knives that I haven't yet found the nerve to sharpen on mine for this reason.
Generally I do it carefully, a few strokes at a time, but not with both sides quickly alternating.
Sometimes I'll steady the other side of the blade near the tip (with my other hand) and make sure that I'm really tracking correctly and not heading for a slip and a scratch.
Oh, I see this is not hard to do. I figured I was a complete idiot. Well at least I feel better about myself. If not for my loss. That was a $2,300 knife. I was probably stupid to try that one though. It may not be lost. There is a place that can probably repair it. It is a good ride for me but it will be worth it.
000Robert
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You can see my WE130 in this photo where I'm using the LAA (Low Angle Adapter) to sharpen my Buck 301 pocket knife. Notice the rubber grommet at the bottom of my stone at the lower righthand side. It keeps you from accidently bringing the stones too low and scratching your blade.
afishhunter
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I just visited their website.
I believe I'll stick to freehand sharpening.
a) At a minimum of a few hundred bucks, to call it "$800", plus any applicable options, such as a base, "low angle adaptor", long rods, and stand alone angle finder/gauge, they are all way out of "affordable" for something old, poor, and on a low fixed monthly income, like me.
b) Without the optional "Shallow Angle Adaptor", long rods, and stand-alone angle finder, the least obtuse sharpening angle is 14.5 DPS.
While 29 degrees inclusive is appropriate for my Hoosier pattern single bit axe, my axe is too thick to fit.
14.5 DPS is 4.5 degrees too obtuse for a knife, and at least 7.5 DPS too obtuse for a straight razor, according to what I was taught.
I was taught "5 to 7 DPS on a razor; 9 to 11 DPS (ideally 10 DPS) on a knife; and 14 to 17 DPS on a axe, hatchet, froe, cleaver, scythe, Adze, etc." 60 years ago, by the adults in my family going back 5 generations without a break, to great-great grandmother. I was also taught that 10.9 out of 11, a stone wasn't necessary to "sharpen" or refresh the edge. A dry leather strop usually sufficed.
(the "Tactical" 15 to 25 DPS knife edge, and "batoning" a knife, hadn't been invented yet, when I was taught to sharpen a/my knife/knives.)
I believe I'll stick to freehand sharpening.
a) At a minimum of a few hundred bucks, to call it "$800", plus any applicable options, such as a base, "low angle adaptor", long rods, and stand alone angle finder/gauge, they are all way out of "affordable" for something old, poor, and on a low fixed monthly income, like me.
b) Without the optional "Shallow Angle Adaptor", long rods, and stand-alone angle finder, the least obtuse sharpening angle is 14.5 DPS.
While 29 degrees inclusive is appropriate for my Hoosier pattern single bit axe, my axe is too thick to fit.
14.5 DPS is 4.5 degrees too obtuse for a knife, and at least 7.5 DPS too obtuse for a straight razor, according to what I was taught.
I was taught "5 to 7 DPS on a razor; 9 to 11 DPS (ideally 10 DPS) on a knife; and 14 to 17 DPS on a axe, hatchet, froe, cleaver, scythe, Adze, etc." 60 years ago, by the adults in my family going back 5 generations without a break, to great-great grandmother. I was also taught that 10.9 out of 11, a stone wasn't necessary to "sharpen" or refresh the edge. A dry leather strop usually sufficed.
(the "Tactical" 15 to 25 DPS knife edge, and "batoning" a knife, hadn't been invented yet, when I was taught to sharpen a/my knife/knives.)
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I have had my WEPS for over a decade and am able to get great results with it. I do not use it like most people do, though. I work on one side at a time, keeping the stone on the blade (to avoid chipping). I will switch sides occasionally. After I raise a burr (and switch sides) on each side, I will do a little bit of the 'two-handed method.' I'll then go to the next stone and repeat. It's probably noteworthy that I try to sharpen straight into the blade, not using a sweeping method as much.
I had to go watch a couple videos to see how the device worked after your initial post. In one of the videos he put blue painters tape on the side of the knife blade to keep from scratching the blade. So that is another option for you.
O.B.
I made my own stoppers much earlier yesterday. They function fine. You would think that they would include this. It is too early to tell but I think I like 70+ years of freehand better. It is hard to get used to new things at this point. it may indeed be better. Better for me? Not sure. I already damaged an expensive knife. Of course I should have started on junk ones. Luckily I am sure this place can repair it. Just not sure when I can get by there. afishhunter, I think you might be about my age. Every year tempted to switch Medicare plans but I get cold feet. I don't think I can do better but mine costs too much. Speaking of costs too much I know this is the granddaddy of guided sharpeners but $1300.00 seems steep to me after all. Since even if I keep it, I just do not sharpen knives all day long. A great set of Diamond stones is maximum $400. You can get the same or better results if you know what you are doing. I really do not like oil stones. Water stones are alright. The funny thing is I go buy this. Over the years I probably have collected maybe 10 Grand worth of stones around here. Well, that might be an exaggeration but a lot.
000Robert
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Well, another one of the good things about the WE is their resale value. If you want to sell it just put it on the WE forum and it should sell pretty quick and you shouldn't lose much money. There are some guys that put 3 or 4 WE vises in a row to sharpen swords with. They are always looking for a deal.
I got it from my Buddy's store. He does not mind to take it back. He told me when I bought it if I decide I don't want it just bring it back. I don't feel bad. I had once got him a new car. Although I think I am going to cool off a couple of days while I watch videos and give it another try. I mean obviously a $1,300 knife sharpener could not be some junk. They would be long out of business. I know the problem is me. If it actually is capable of getting my knives sharper. Than it is something I would want to learn and keep. I am flexible. I am open to anything that gives results. I do not usually give up in 2 day's either. I am sure my Friend would rather help me learn it than take it back too. Watch, I will report back in a month I am like MR. MIyagi on the thing. Plus one thing I do like about it is I do not need 50 stones and rods for different types of knives.
This is off topic and nothing like the WE130. I wanted the consensus if this is junk or good for people that never sharpened a knife. Lookup "Warthog classic II knife sharpener". It is a very fancy "Bavarian" style sharpener. It uses full size Diamond rods. It has a manually adjustable angle. The nice one with the wood base is $105. all the rods are about $160. So it is $265. I really can't tell if it is junk or actually commands that much. I was going to give it to one of my Great Grand children. I don't want to give them junk though. Remember, they do not understand a Sharpmaker or similar and do not care to.
This is off topic and nothing like the WE130. I wanted the consensus if this is junk or good for people that never sharpened a knife. Lookup "Warthog classic II knife sharpener". It is a very fancy "Bavarian" style sharpener. It uses full size Diamond rods. It has a manually adjustable angle. The nice one with the wood base is $105. all the rods are about $160. So it is $265. I really can't tell if it is junk or actually commands that much. I was going to give it to one of my Great Grand children. I don't want to give them junk though. Remember, they do not understand a Sharpmaker or similar and do not care to.
000Robert
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Good, I hope you learn how to use it and keep it. When I bought my WE130 I watched many videos and read many articles and helps on the WE forum. On the WE forum page, at the top right you will see, "knowledge base". Click on it and you will find a lot of good stuff.
I have never used the Warthog, but I don't like it. The one that I saw only has 3 angles to choose from. WE does have some less expensive models that your great grandkids could start with. Do they know how to freehand? I believe that it is a good idea for people to learn how to freehand first.
No. The kids can barely use a pull through. I was getting the boy's interested in this. Maybe a Lansky? They are far from stupid. The Warthog looks cool but it is very flimsy stamped metal. I saw this one video on the WE130. The guy was like a ninja. He was done in 19 seconds. That is not my goal. I just want to sharpen a knife. My stops actually work. They came from the ends of a shower curtain rod.
000Robert
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Every knife that I have clamped in my vise so far has had to be reprofiled. But I haven't clamped up my CPK yet because it is still sharp. But, I know it will be good. I don't go fast like some of those guys either. I take my time, but I have gotten faster.
I'm glad that your stops are working. Hopefully you will not scratch another blade. You can put some masking tape on the blades also to help keep from scratching your blades. I also tape up my WE to help keep steel particles and stuff from getting into the internal workings.
Edit: Oops. I haven't clamped up my new Buck 120 General yet neither.
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