Gotta love batches!!

Bill, thanks. Perfect name. Thanks to IMWILSON's link, I found pics. I can't get it out of my head. I'm thinking it would be great for processing small game, fish, and dressing whitetails. Anyone have experience with that.

I just found BRL's thread from June, that answers the fish part.
 
AHHHH, gotta keep a watch out for that B & T. I also Got my EYE on that little one above the big recurves.
Randy
 
Okay, I just found you sub forum here...didn't think I could possibly indulge in any more of your knives, but I proved myself wrong!

I have two questions for you though. If you don't want to answer them, I certainly understand. I only ask because I'm a beginning knife maker myself and I'm curious.

1. I notice you only drill pin and tube holes in the tang. Do you ever drill relief holes (to lighten the weight) in your handles. I see some makers' tangs that look like Swiss Cheese. Personally I don't mind the extra weight, but I guess some people do. Just wondered if the pin and tubes is all your drill?

2. I've noticed you do a "forced patina" on some of your knives. If I could ask, what is the process you use? I've used spicy brown mustard, Louisiana hot sauce, potatoes, onions and apples but have never got the results on 1095 that you do. I finished the blades to 400 then tried the forced patina. Most of the time, they come out looking like a leopard print!

Thanks for your time.
 
okay, i just found you sub forum here...didn't think i could possibly indulge in any more of your knives, but i proved myself wrong!

I have two questions for you though. If you don't want to answer them, i certainly understand. I only ask because i'm a beginning knife maker myself and i'm curious.

1. I notice you only drill pin and tube holes in the tang. Do you ever drill relief holes (to lighten the weight) in your handles. I see some makers' tangs that look like swiss cheese. Personally i don't mind the extra weight, but i guess some people do. Just wondered if the pin and tubes is all your drill?

2. I've noticed you do a "forced patina" on some of your knives. If i could ask, what is the process you use? I've used spicy brown mustard, louisiana hot sauce, potatoes, onions and apples but have never got the results on 1095 that you do. I finished the blades to 400 then tried the forced patina. Most of the time, they come out looking like a leopard print!

Thanks for your time.

1/8" or 5/32" stock isnt much weight no i dont drill all kinds of holes in my tangs i like solid handles,pins and tubes are all i drill
the patina is 40/40 gun bluing,i dab it were i want it then regrind the blade to get the lines to come out straight and clean,so it isnt globbed all over the blade,
ill do a work in progress on the patina for you here on the forum so you can understand how i do it
thanks bill
 
the patina is 40/40 gun bluing,i dab it were i want it then regrind the blade to get the lines to come out straight and clean,so it isnt globbed all over the blade,
ill do a work in progress on the patina for you here on the forum so you can understand how i do it
thanks bill

A fine idea!
 
1/8" or 5/32" stock isnt much weight no i dont drill all kinds of holes in my tangs i like solid handles,pins and tubes are all i drill
the patina is 40/40 gun bluing,i dab it were i want it then regrind the blade to get the lines to come out straight and clean,so it isnt globbed all over the blade,
ill do a work in progress on the patina for you here on the forum so you can understand how i do it
thanks bill

Thanks for the response Bill! I'd appreciate a WIP! BTW, I used gun blue on one of my first knives (Birchwood Casey's Perma Blu). Liked it, but it did seem to scratch pretty easy.

YOU FORCE IT ON WITH THE BLUING,THEN YOU SCRUB IT OFF UNDER WATER AND REPEAT THE PROCESS TO GET IT DARKER AND DARKER,AS IT GOES DEEPER INTO THE STEEL
 
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Scandi Bushies,Mmmmmmmmmmm.
Looks like business is booming in the backwoods.:thumbup:
I'll keep an eye out for one of the scandies in the future if they aren't for orders.
 
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