Grain direction for wood scales

C

CDH

Joined
Jun 8, 2007
Messages
283
I'm have been cutting some of my own wood (mostly mesquite) for handle scales with generally good results IMO, but I'm no professional. Does anyone have any suggestions for the 'ideal' grain direction for scales? Obviously I was cutting for grain running the length of the handle for strength but how much difference does quarter sawn vs. slab sawn make? Is it just cosmetic, or is there a real strength issue? I have aimed for quarter sawn (on the advice of gunstock makers) but the high waste turns me off.

For pure looks, when the grain runs at about a 45 degree angle as viewed from the butt of the knife it 'feels' right to my eye...but I'm far from an expert.

Or am I worrying about insignificant details?:D
 
Plain sawn (slab sawn) tends to warp and check more. Additionally, in most hardwoods there are rays, very visible in white oak, but present in most hardwoods, and they can't be seen at all when in plain sawn boards. Osage orange, for example, is much prettier when quartersawn. Most hardwoods are prettier that way, and some rays show if they're quartersawn. JMHO.

But, lacewood looses its appeal when quartersawn. So plain saw it to see the goodies. I bet there are others, but I don't know of any.
 
Fiddleback has some good points but IMHO I think its all in what look you want. I have just recently started sending my own stuff to wssi and experimenting with cutting also. The ray point made is valid except in the case of woods that contain eyes, such as Birdseye Maple. You will not see the "eyes" unless you slab it. I've found that you can cut for "rays" or "chatoyence" :confused: (spellcheck:) ) or for the "eyes". There are more "looks" to cut for that I can't "label" due to newbie-ness at this scale cutting technique.These that I listed are what I have found so far. After re-reading fiddlebacks post it seems as though we are coming to the same conclusions ;) Anxiously awaiting other responses. :thumbup:
 
Another consideration is how the wood wants to split. If you let a log dry naturally without cutting it up first you'll notice a likelyhood to split one way more than another. This is important for peening pins in place as this is when and where the handle material will most likely split.

ron
 
All of the logs (smallish, more limbs than logs) I have cut thus far had a small crack in the center, going right down the length of the piece. I make my first cut right down that split since I figure it is the point of highest stress. May as well go with the flow, right? Other than that I've never noticed an unusual tendency to split one direction or another...but I don't peen pins through wood scales either.

With the slabs I got (from a furniture maker's castoffs) I don't have that luxury and have to 'read' the end grain without any other knowledge of log position. Maybe I'll try a couple of each and see what it looks like...I can always use the failures on the BBQ!
 
Good point about eyes David, gotta plain saw to see them. Figured woods and burls are different beasts than regular woods. Checks, chips, twist, warp, tearout, these considerations all change for burls or crotch woods.

Be careful getting wood from limbs. Limbs grow under stress with the bottom in compression and the top being pulled. Try to get your wood from the trunk. Of course, some trunks grow all crazy too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top