Gransfors Bruk vs Wetterlings axe which is better

So gransfors vs wetterlings.....I'm going to buy one soon but I still haven't heard anything super substantial on how the two differ. I know they perform nearly the same but what are the differences in quality? I've heard that the fit and finish is slightly better on the Gransfors Bruks. Does anybody have close-up photos contrasting the two? After all, a picture says a thousand words.

I'd really like to see the difference.
 
Hickory n steel said:
Honestly both companies make ugly head shapes,and use unattractive handles without enough curve in them. And aren't GB and wetterlings currently the same thing ? I would rather have a vintage American boys axe, and honestly I'd rather have vintage axes in general because they don't make them like they used to . I think it's the duty of every axe enthusiast to save a vintage axe from the scrapyard ( I wish there was a country wide program that collected vintage axe heads and distributed them in exchange for imported hardware store specials, which they would load into rocket heads and launch at the enemy ) that would be a real tomahawk missile :D
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Your dislike of these Swedish axes comes from your personal preferences, both aesthetics and design, and you claim they have poor head geometry.

Disliking something because it is not your preference is fine but in my opinion, they are much better looking than the other axes you speak of. I enjoy the curvature of their handles. In terms of geometry, they are designed for the climate and forests of Sweden. Scandinavian designs for Scandinavian needs. They will not perform like your jersey patterns on your trees down south because they were never designed to. They are designed for trees like pine, spruce and birch, much smaller in diameter than what a jersey head is designed to work on.

Unfortunately it seems like there is a lot of dislike for these axes on this forums because of their lack of performance. In my opinion these axes perform extremely well in the environment they were designed for. And unfortunately they do not perform as well on some of the larger hardwoods that are found further south. Instead of saying they have terrible edge geometry, remember Swedish geometry is not suited to your environment but does not mean they have poor geometry.

Not trying to single you out HickorynSteel, just a trend of thought I have witnessed.
 
Based off my review of the Wetterlings Hudson Bay, and how it performed, I would lean with going to purchasing a Wetterlings. I did at one time have 3 GBs, and sold them, more for $$$ than anything else. I have been strong anti euro axe in the past, but am coming around to any and all axes. Wetterlings, to my knowledge and last checking, is in the GB family of businesses, however I am not 100% sure of the involvement of GB over Wetterlings when it comes to making axes, setting price, quality control, etc. I will email my contact and try and find out. I do know they are extremely busy and are behind due to demand.

I know a couple guys on here love their handles, and others love the axes overall. More tailored for the bushcraft scene, they can't compare to a vintage USA made axe for more traditional uses, while the vintage USA axes don't compare to the modern euros when it comes to bushcraft and those specifics wants/needs. So it is what it is.

I plan on getting one of the Wetterlings SFA or the AFA, I just can't decide on which one.
 
Quality-wise I rather doubt you'd break or wear out any one faster than the other. Both are made from the same recycled steel. As to balance, ergonomics and profile for actual use only you can be the judge of that. Outward appearance means very little which is why so many novices impulsively gravitate to Hudson Bay-type designs rather than choosing something that actually works for them, and doesn't loosen or come apart through heavy use. Beg or borrow as many types and models of choppers as you can and give them a real good workout before committing to an expensive purchase.

Of course if you're at all like many of us on here your first purchase is destined to lead to many more and 5-10 years from now you will have generated some favourites.
 
Rather than obsess over which company is better, just figure out the pattern or model that appeals to you and your needs and buy it. Either company makes fine axes. If it doesn't work out, sell or trade it for another model.
 
Both are a good axe, Ive owned several of both and sold them all. Not because I didn't like them becaue I had axes of my own to use and I made money off every sale..I do actually miss a few of them and wish I had not sold them..You will still have imperfections in either. I had a GB that was crooked as a dogs leg but still cut great, I just used it and dint worry about it..The two wetterlings Ive owned were arrow straight and nearly perfect..I do like that Gb "generally" has a somewhat thinner bit but that's no deal breaker to me..The Swedish style heads shine in green woodwork like carving and such. you get a lot of cut in a little bit of weight. that's why they are so popular with the bushcrafters. I like them myself. Id like to have a wetterlings Hudson bay to try and Id like to have a few GB's back that Ive had..
Its coming on spring and Ive been plowing today..We need to cut bean poles soon and that 1 pound head with a 3"+ cutting edge of the GB hatchet sure is nice to use over a 2 pound classic Dayton head hatchet with the same cutting edge ;) I use to make a lot of money with a hatchet when I was younger selling bean poles and clearing brush..You would be surprised what that extra pound of weight does to you after a long day of swinging it..
 
jmarston said:
Your dislike of these Swedish axes comes from your personal preferences, both aesthetics and design, and you claim they have poor head geometry.

Disliking something because it is not your preference is fine but in my opinion, they are much better looking than the other axes you speak of. I enjoy the curvature of their handles. In terms of geometry, they are designed for the climate and forests of Sweden. Scandinavian designs for Scandinavian needs. They will not perform like your jersey patterns on your trees down south because they were never designed to. They are designed for trees like pine, spruce and birch, much smaller in diameter than what a jersey head is designed to work on.

Unfortunately it seems like there is a lot of dislike for these axes on this forums because of their lack of performance. In my opinion these axes perform extremely well in the environment they were designed for. And unfortunately they do not perform as well on some of the larger hardwoods that are found further south. Instead of saying they have terrible edge geometry, remember Swedish geometry is not suited to your environment but does not mean they have poor geometry.

Not trying to single you out HickorynSteel, just a trend of thought I have witnessed.
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I didn't exactly say that they have poor head geometry, but vintage American axes have a better head geometry than modern axes do . ( if you were to hang a riggers axe head on a 20-22" curved handle you'd likely match the sfa's performance but have the added utility of an actual hammer ) now the wetterlings Hudson bay axe is a nice looking tool:thumbup:, but cost a lot ( more than it probably should, even for the quality you get )
 
Gransfors now owns Wetterlings, so they're both gonna be of similar quality, but their models have some variation, just go for what suits you needs!
 
W Stelter said:
Gransfors now owns Wetterlings, so they're both gonna be of similar quality, but their models have some variation, just go for what suits you needs!
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I don't think this is correct. Both companies are under the same ownership; neither is controlled by the other. Of course if I was a shareholder and one business was hugely profitable and the other wasn't I would expect collusion to be encouraged. And ultimately you would expect that pretend competition (ie Evinrude VS Johnson, Chev v Buick, Gransfors VS Wetterlings) leads to amalgamation.
 
jmarston said:
I enjoy the curvature of their handles. In terms of geometry, they are designed for the climate and forests of Sweden. Scandinavian designs for Scandinavian needs. They will not perform like your jersey patterns on your trees down south because they were never designed to. They are designed for trees like pine, spruce and birch, much smaller in diameter than what a jersey head is designed to work on.

Unfortunately it seems like there is a lot of dislike for these axes on this forums because of their lack of performance. In my opinion these axes perform extremely well in the environment they were designed for. And unfortunately they do not perform as well on some of the larger hardwoods that are found further south. Instead of saying they have terrible edge geometry, remember Swedish geometry is not suited to your environment but does not mean they have poor geometry.
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I'm going to preface this with Gransfors Bruks makes a fine axe, I'm sure Wetterlings and HB do as well. I say this because I don't want to come across as putting down these companies, and because it's true. These axes are not Scandinavian designs as far as I can tell, they are very much North American. If you scroll through that link you will find one in particular from the civil war I believe that looks like a dead ringer for the SFA made by GB. I'm working on a U.S. stamped head right now with a profile similar to what you would see from these companies. There is little truth to the statement that they aren't made for the Hardwoods of America. Axe makers adapted their designs over the years in America moving to shorter bits, adding poles, and eventually the high centerline all to aid in performance. Axes from these Swedish companies generally have most if not all of these attributes. Some of the designs are a little dated, but I feel that is on purpose. And in all honesty, the axe itself is dated in most people's minds.

I think the reason a lot of us seem to dislike these axes is because we grow tired of hearing about how superior their steel is, and how nicly shaped their handles are and how well they perform. We all know that their handles are okay their steel is on par with your average vintage axe, and their performance is between on par to a little less than a good vintage axe depending on the taks at hand. But you hear things like "Swedish steel is mystical", and GB is the axe to judge all others by.

Now on the other side of that GB, Wetterlings, and HB are still producing axes today and good ones compared to a lot of what is available from your average local hardware store, and that is a good thing.
 
You are very correct, Hacked. I apologize if I came off as condeacending. Nothing magic about these axes. Just a quality tool. Strange, it seems, that a quality tool these days can possess such "magic" properties. A boutique axe, no doubt, but certainly quality.

What I really love is that I can go down to my local hardware store and purchase a GB/Wetterling/etc and immediately, or wih very little work, I can experience what a well built axe can really do. Anyone can. No sifting through a bin of old rusty heads, meticulously cleaning and preparing it, searching through racks of sub part handles for our new antique store find. After all of this, taking it home and spending a couple of hours tuning our fit and finish until it is just perfect. Don't get me wrong, I find great enjoyment in this process but it is not for everyone.

More power to the GB/Councils/hult bruks of the world for the opportunity to own a quality tool that is available locally.
 
jmarston said:
I apologize if I came off as condeacending.
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Not at all. And I've got to admit I was happy to see Council Tools carried in my local hardware store. Most places around me carry Trupers, I would be happy to see Swedish axes over those any day of the week.

Personally I enjoy the cleaning, profiling, sharpening and hafting of the axe just as much as using them. I'm even looking into a local source for kiln dried white ash. I realize that it's not for everyone though.
 
Hacked said:
I'm even looking into a local source for kiln dried white ash.
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Better track some down now while it's still abundant and before Emerald Ash Borer decimates the n. American forests of them. Just like what happened to American Chestnut 100 years ago, Ash will be history 10 years from now. White Ash separates rather easily along the grain (too easy as far as I'm concerned) so maybe extending your search to include White Oak is not a bad idea. It's more difficult to come by but it's very durable and it's rot resistant. White Oak is/was prized for structural purposes by the boat building industry.
 
300Six said:
Better track some down now while it's still abundant and before Emerald Ash Borer decimates the n. American forests of them. Just like what happened to American Chestnut 100 years ago, Ash will be history 10 years from now. White Ash separates rather easily along the grain (too easy as far as I'm concerned) so maybe extending your search to include White Oak is not a bad idea. It's more difficult to come by but it's very durable and it's rot resistant. White Oak is/was prized for structural purposes by the boat building industry.
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I have two local sources for white ash, and one for Hickory in 8/4". I'll keep a look out for white oak, do you think it has any advantages over Hickory?

"White oak machines well, nails and screws well although pre-boring is advised. Since it reacts with iron, galvanized nails are recommended"

One of my local suppliers carries it but that part of the description has me leaning back towards ash or hickory. I'm guessing the ash will be cheaper, and know it will be easier to work.
 
jmarston said:
You are very correct, Hacked. I apologize if I came off as condeacending. Nothing magic about these axes. Just a quality tool. Strange, it seems, that a quality tool these days can possess such "magic" properties. A boutique axe, no doubt, but certainly quality.

What I really love is that I can go down to my local hardware store and purchase a GB/Wetterling/etc and immediately, or wih very little work, I can experience what a well built axe can really do. Anyone can. No sifting through a bin of old rusty heads, meticulously cleaning and preparing it, searching through racks of sub part handles for our new antique store find. After all of this, taking it home and spending a couple of hours tuning our fit and finish until it is just perfect. Don't get me wrong, I find great enjoyment in this process but it is not for everyone.

More power to the GB/Councils/hult bruks of the world for the opportunity to own a quality tool that is available locally.
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But the restoration process itself as well as the satisfaction of saving a price of history from.the scrapyard is half the fun:D
 
I'm a new bushcraft enthusiast which explains why I'm so interested in the Swedish axes.

I never knew how popular and involved collecting old vintage American axes was. Just curious...Where on earth do you find them? Garage sales and swap meets?
 
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