Gransfors Bruks

P

Parbo

Joined
Sep 8, 2003
Messages
2
I need some advise on where to purchase GB products, specifically a Small Forest Axe or Hunter...online. Thanks!!
 
It depends on whether you want to look at it or use it. The Forest Axe rocks! Excellent balance, weight, design, steel and sharpness. The Hunters Axe is similar but has the rounded polished poll which is great for separating hide from meat but not much else. The Hunters Axe also has circular grooves in the handle for better traction when your hands are covered with blood and guts.

The Hunters Axe is beautiful but I find the Forest Axe more functional. Then again, I'm not much of a hunter...
 
I think he asked "where" to buy, not "which one" to buy.

There are quite a few vendors online.

Do a search for Tove wrecking bars. These wrecking bars are manufactured by Gransfors Bruks and will show up in your search.

Searching for Gransfors Bruks usually comes up with nothing on google.com.

I bought my Hunters Ax from AGRussell.com. You can probably get it for a few bucks cheaper at another online vendor.
 
Thanks for the help/advise...I just placed an order for the Hunter, it looks to fit the bill perfectly for my needs. These guys make an awesome product, which hope to put to good on a caribou hunt next week.:)
 
I was just up at the LL Bean store in Freeport and the had the best prices I've seen (65 for small forest) and I even got to pick mine out. You can only get them from the Freeport store I was told.

It's a great axe and cut like crazy. The only problem was the the blade chiped and the edge rolled a little. What concerns me was that I was using it to split some kiniling (sorry about the spelling). I wonder whats up with that? Should I contact them?
 
Originally posted by Saberman
I was just up at the LL Bean store in Freeport and the had the best prices I've seen (65 for small forest) and I even got to pick mine out. You can only get them from the Freeport store I was told.

It's a great axe and cut like crazy. The only problem was the the blade chiped and the edge rolled a little. What concerns me was that I was using it to split some kiniling (sorry about the spelling). I wonder whats up with that? Should I contact them?
Click to expand...

What did you hit to chip and roll the edge? You might have a defective ax. Did you fill out the warranty card? I think you might want to get a replacement.

I was splitting wood and inadvertantly hit the edge of my Hunters Ax on the concrete fire platform. The edge was a little rough looking from the impact but I repaired it in 5 minutes flat. No rolling, no chipping.
 
When I was splitting some wood for my campfire I may have hit a rock, I don't remember hearing anything like that though. Also the edge seemed to roll a little.

I havn't had a chance to fill out the warranty form. I'll do that today. Then I'll contact them about the chip.
 
It depends as well on the nature of the wood. I chipped out a Wildlife Hatchet on a regular basis in the first winter it was used on knotty spruce. The very hard knots and cold weather were to much for the fine bevel. The solution was to just increase the curvature in the last fraction of a millimeter to get more durability if you have to cut very tough woods.

-Cliff
 
It could have been the wood. Some of it split really easy and other pieces seemed to stop the axe cold. It was all well seasoned oak. I'm going to give it a good shapening tonight and see if I can get the chip out. Thanks
 
Well seasoned oak can be very tough, even when clear because of twisting grain. The GB axes have edges optomized for softer woods. It however can be easily compensated by thickening the edge just a little. Just go about half to three quarters of the depth of the chip or so.

You get into this problem here locally where there is a massive difference between the soft clean pine and fir trees and the black spruce. Penetration on a swing can be several times to one greater on the softer woods. I usually carry a different axe which gets called into use on the occasion spruce trees with ring knots.

This is also where a double bit axe can be very handy.

-Cliff
 
To remove a chip, if it is in the center of the bit I would grind it out completely. This takes some time with an axe head because the bevel is so wide, use a large bastard file, or some really coarse sandpaper (40 grit ) to make the shape. Then proceed to polish with finer abrasives.

If the chip is towards the ends I would in most cases just round the insides out with a tapered hone to make a pseudo-serration. Rounding it out removes all the square edges which can easily crack under chopping impacts. Since the chip isn't in the main contact area it won't effect performance too much.

The handles are quality wood and if not abused will last a long time, though I doubt twenty years. They however can be broken very easily if impacted off of limbs and such on miss swings.

-Cliff
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top