Gransfors SFA Handle

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Mar 11, 2006
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I have just purchased a Gransfors Small Forest Axe and have instantly fallen in love with it. Although I have one question. How much do small knots affect handle strength? There are a couple scattered around the middle part of the handle but seem to be sorrounded by straight wood.
 
Small knots should not be a problem. I doubt that Gransfors would let anything out the door if it was going to be a problem.
 
The main concern is knots which intersect the edges of the handle. In general Bruks doesn't have high quality control on the handles, all three of the axes I bought had horrible alignment.

-Cliff
 
My axe has a very similar knot near the head like the one on the small splitting axe found on Gransfors site http://www.gransfors.com/htm_eng/index.html (pictures section). I didn't think much of it because I thought that if a reputable maker like Gransfors is putting it on the net it can't be that big of a problem...but is it?
 
I'm a tool guy. I grew up on a farm and learned early how to use, maintain, and repair tools. I learned from my Granddad who raised his family in the depression on a farm, and from my Father who served in the Navy in WWII, then came home to be a farmer. Wood handle tools can have the best head in the world, be it tempered shovel, pick, double bit axe, hatchet or hammer, but if the quality of the handle is poor, you have junk. Quality handles are out there for replacements, and they are not hard to fit properly. I buy mine from Mennonite makers who craft them with select grain hickory wood, no knots or checks. I fit them tightly and with the right cast (angle), and pin or wedge them the old fashioned way. Then I treat them with oils and keep them treated, and protected from the weather.

I am in construction now, and have thousands of dollars worth of tools. Very few of the tools I use for the jobs have hickory handles now. Almost all are FRP and carry a lifetime replacement warranty. I just cannot get the workers to take proper pride in the tools, and this is the best way I've found to solve the problem of broken handles. I keep my good wood handled tools at home and use them here on the farm. I add one or two refurbished ones a year to my shed, usually found with a broken or rotted handle at yard sales and second hand shops. These tools all get refurbished at least annually, some after every job. No rust or concrete is allowed to remain, no cracked or splintered handles. Many of the construction tools are six years old or older, and they look and function as new, though they have been used hard.

Check with Lehman's if you don't have a group of Amish or Mennonites living near you. They usually have craftsmen who make handles, and sometimes smiths who will properly install them. That said, I would not consider buying an axe, hatchet, or other tool with a knot in the handle. Shoddy craftsmanship at best. Unreliable and dangerous at worst.

Codger
 
That said, I would not consider buying an axe, hatchet, or other tool with a knot in the handle. Shoddy craftsmanship at best.

Sight down the centerline of Bruks axes, if you know how to hang an axe head you won't like what you see.

-Cliff
 
Different areas of the world haft their axes differently, if you are talking about the cast, or offset in the handle. Most North Americans prefer a centered handle with no cast, left or right. Some Europeans favor an offset to center the axe on a swing and compensate for the long right hand/short left hand grip of the axeman. This may be more prevelant in Canada than the U.S. with the percentage of Fins, Swedes, etc. who work timber there. I have seen a few old-timers who would steam bend their handles to produce a cast they favored. One thing they all have in common is the preference for clear, straight grained hardwood in their axe handles.

Codger
 
I have just purchased a Gransfors Small Forest Axe and have instantly fallen in love with it. Although I have one question. How much do small knots affect handle strength? There are a couple scattered around the middle part of the handle but seem to be sorrounded by straight wood.


What size is this "small" knot? I've made damn nice Bows (if I dare say) with small "pinknots" bout 1/4" or smaller with absolutly no trouble.
 
... if you are talking about the cast, or offset in the handle.

Take the bit of your axe by basically pinching the edge and now rotate your wrist while pulling to the side. All four of the Swedish axes I have seen are randomally off center in that way. Moving the blade to the left or right just effects your entry angle which you can compensate for but actually rotating the head so the edge isn't inline with the handle seems problematic to me. I have not heard that being advocated on a general use axe. I'd even find the left/right skew awkward because if it is really bad and you don't adjust for it the blade will glance because the blade entry angle is a lot more shallow than the handle entry angle.

-Cliff
 
Gransfors Bruks axes are poorly built?
Please name the production company that builds a better axe.

(Although I will concede that handle quality on all tools has decreased in the last 20 years by a marked amount)

GB will also replace handles, in fact I have a Wildlife Hatchet that needs a handle replaced.

Gb axes are about the best on the market (aside from the like of Lee Reeves, etc)
 
Gransfors Bruks axes are poorly built?

The handles are not well aligned yes, both Bruks and Wetterling, four out of four out of what I have seen all had significant problems which would have them all labeled rejects a generation ago.

Please name the production company that builds a better axe.

Fiskars has much better head alignment which you would expect given the way they are fitted.

-Cliff
 
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