Great Eastern Cutlery: thoughts & discussion

LuciousClay said:
Now heres my question:
Is there any way to remove the blade etchings? I would love to have just one that didn't have any etchings (or even shiny finish) so I could let a natural patina develop with out feeling guilty. I don't know what process is used to etch blade steel, so this could be a very stupid question, but I'd really like to know.
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The patina on mine has almost covered up the etch, so if you can live with seeing most, then half etc. of the etch for a little while, it won't take long till its not seen.. :)

joe-bob said:
Ya gotta be careful...some of the eBay knives are not the same as the regular production knives.
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Are we talking not the same = fakes, or not the same = limited edition knives?

G.
 

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joe-bob said:
There was at least one batch that were ordered by some people to sell on ebay that weren't 440c blades, they were 420hc. We don't normally consider a downgraded spec knife a "limited edition".

http://blog.tsaknives.com/2008/08/0...tting--440c-stainless-or-420hc-stainless.aspx
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Great info, thanks for the heads up. Fortunately I stick to the carbon blades and have not been ripped off.

I really have no problem with 420 as long as its HC not J2. Paul Bos at Buck knives got 420HC right and I love the stuff; still nobody wants a cheapened version sold as something else.
 
The other thing with e-bay can be that seconds or rejects can find their way onto the market....not seen this with G.E. and I've always been lucky on the bay,but it's always a possibility.
 
I have just discovered GEC through this thread . . . I don't know if I should thank you all or curse you for what is about to happen to my wallet!

Those are some very attractive and impressive looking knives - I partiularly like the barlow patterns with the long nail pulls. I figured they'd all be priced out of reach, given the handle materials and short production runs, but some are quite reasonable.

Just how strong are the backsprings? I like a good, solid snap, but I don't like them excessively strong, or they become inconvenient to use.
 
joe-bob said:
There was at least one batch that were ordered by some people to sell on ebay that weren't 440c blades, they were 420hc. We don't normally consider a downgraded spec knife a "limited edition".

http://blog.tsaknives.com/2008/08/0...tting--440c-stainless-or-420hc-stainless.aspx
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Interesting... I'd say its something worth picking up for the collector value, depending on how many were made..

but I'd use it too.... I am sure GEC would have the proper HT of the 420, and probably never tell the difference. Yeah, though, its nice to get what you think your getting..


Here's something interesting about the etches; aparently they are quite easy to polish off; http://blog.tsaknives.com/2008/10/11/gec-blade-etch-is-fragile.aspx


G.
 
Foilist said:
I have just discovered GEC through this thread . . . I don't know if I should thank you all or curse you for what is about to happen to my wallet!

Those are some very attractive and impressive looking knives - I partiularly like the barlow patterns with the long nail pulls. I figured they'd all be priced out of reach, given the handle materials and short production runs, but some are quite reasonable.

Just how strong are the backsprings? I like a good, solid snap, but I don't like them excessively strong, or they become inconvenient to use.
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On my barlow, the springs are quite firm. It works quite well for the main blade but makes using the small blade difficult for me. The scale and liner on mine are very nicely relieved to give access to the nail nick on the small blade but my nails are just not strong enough to open it without a little discomfort. I don't use the smaller blades on my barlows much anyway so it doesn't really bother me. Other than that I am very pleased with the knife. The fit and finish is very good and the carbon steel takes a great polished edge.
 
just placed an order for a #23L Pioneer in Black Spiral Cut Horn. I had one of their big jacks in Geniuine stag, and they build great knives. I wanted one of these in their stag, but this horn was great looking too. Maybe stag another day when the wallet is fatter :D
 
Durbin, that spiral cut horn is really unusual:thumbup:

No problem with getting a grip on that one:D

I wish they did the No.73 in that bone as the 23 is too massive for my pocket,tremendous looking knife though.
 
My latest just came in, a 2 blade Pioneer trapper with red wine bone scales. Beautiful knife. GEC is doing a great job on these.
 
Anyone else re-profiling their GEC's edges?
Although some are very sharp out of the box, the angles used are very different from the 15(or so) degree edges I'm used to on Case knives. I've been redoing them on my Gatco sharpening system. For the double blade trappers I prefer different angles for different uses. I went with a 25 degree (per side) angle on the primary blade and 15 on the spey blade. I had to take off quite a bit of steel on the spey blade, but I went fairly quick with the diamond hones. I finished that blade with a very fine hone, while I left the primary blade a bit rougher.
For the single blade "beaver tail" I also used 15 degrees and it is RAZOR sharp. A better slicer than my Case sod buster jr. However being a single bladed knife I may need a more durable edge and I'm considering putting on a second bevel. What angles are y'all using, on your GEC's??

Also I've had some success following some advise from this thread. My etchings are almost completely gone off of my Beaver Tail #73. Brasso and steel wool, followed but a slight patina, and they are hardly visible!
 
Okay, I am now officially addicted to the GEC #73 pattern. I've been carrying and using mine a lot lately, I love, love, LOVE them. I used one of my #73s for a bunch of projects around the house over the weekend, and it performed like a champ. I had to cut through a bunch of assorted computer cables and wires, and the carbon blade just zipped through every time, with hardly any resistance. And zero damage to the edge, or even scratching. The plain 'ol 1095 blade with old school geometry does a better job cutting than any of my newfangled tactical folders with "supersteels". Color me impressed.
The only "problem" I have with these knives is that the carbon steel does patina up a bit too fast for my taste. Even though I painstakingly maintain/ oil them, after just a couple days of heavy use, they build up enough "patina" on the backsprings that it is noticeably rough. It's easily cleaned off with Flitz, but the corrosion is enough to concern me. I just know there's some rust going on between the springs and in the pivots. I like my knives shiny and clean. I think I may have to stick to stainless, even though the carbon performs great and is easy to sharpen.

My latest just arrived, a Great Eastern (stainless) with the "Goldenrod" paper micarta scales and endcaps. It is spectacular. I like it so much, I went ahead and ordered another, but with Ivory Casein scales. Does anyone have any experience with Casein scales on knives? I know it's a milk-based plastic, but I don't know anything else about it. Does it stain, or shrink, or crack, or have problems if you get it wet?
 
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