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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Greedy Hogs wanted Pics!!!!!
- Thread starter rjd
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I started a thread asking the hogs their advice about which 1911 I should buy and I got a bunch of great advice.
Leave it alone or modify????? That is the question. I went ahead and posted some pics for all the pic-hungry hogs out there!!!!
Keep'em Sharp,
rjd
That is a thing of beauty, just the way it is. Will you ever edc it?
My recommendations:
1. Wilson/McCormick mags
2. Shoot the crap out of it to get a feel for what you like or would prefer to change.
3. If changes include trigger work, make sure you take it to a competant and known smith.
4. Beaver-tail palm-safety, if you absolutely must have it.
5. Busse micarta, of course.
6. 25-30 lines-per-inch checkering on the front-strap might be nice, or it might just be expensive. 3M griptape gives good grip, but it'll eat your hands/gloves up. Grip-tape lets you get rid of it for a range-day or multi-day class, then put it on for edc security. Food for thought. And don't go with imposters, get 3M so it doesn't slide off when you need it most.
7. I wouldn't recommend a fat mag-well if you're edc-ing it, but they're fun at the range.
8. Sights: if they work leave 'em alone.
9. Keep it as stock as possible, and keep the original part from any changes so you can advertise it as "Original" when you sell it to buy college books for kids or a car for your grandkid...
jimmyjones
Gold Member
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Only 1 Colt, 1991-A1, before and after its new slabs !
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Nice snag!
Before you do anything, snag a few hundred rnds of ball ammo and go shooting. You'll figure out what you want or need quick enough.
For me, since I've gotten older, a beavertail is a must or blood just gets everywhere. Funny, when I started shooting 1911's 45 yrs ago, I never had any problems with hammer bite. Now, trying to break in a new RIA, the gun was bloody before the first mag was done.
If it is that new, run at least 500 rnds through it to let the parts mate and wear in. A lot of things that seem like problems go away with use. If they are still there after 500 rnds, or, if there is something that you don't like, you are in a much better position to address it.
Till you can shoot it like a water pistol, that is, by just pointing, stay away from all the Ninja do dads. Lights, scopes, adjustable sights, dots and all that.
Practice beats gimmicks every day of the week.
Just go shoot it and check back.
Rob
Before you do anything, snag a few hundred rnds of ball ammo and go shooting. You'll figure out what you want or need quick enough.
For me, since I've gotten older, a beavertail is a must or blood just gets everywhere. Funny, when I started shooting 1911's 45 yrs ago, I never had any problems with hammer bite. Now, trying to break in a new RIA, the gun was bloody before the first mag was done.
If it is that new, run at least 500 rnds through it to let the parts mate and wear in. A lot of things that seem like problems go away with use. If they are still there after 500 rnds, or, if there is something that you don't like, you are in a much better position to address it.
Till you can shoot it like a water pistol, that is, by just pointing, stay away from all the Ninja do dads. Lights, scopes, adjustable sights, dots and all that.
Practice beats gimmicks every day of the week.
Just go shoot it and check back.
Rob
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2006
- Messages
- 16,703
Depends on what you want it for.
If you're content to own it, to plink a little now and then, then leave it be.
If you want to make it a real shooter, perhaps even learn how to become a real shooter yourself using it, then you should get some basic smithing done -- throated, trigger job, tightened up here and there (tolerances improved), maybe better grips, and possibly even a new barrel (but only if you want tighter groups and intend to shoot a lot). A lot more can be done to a pistol, but you won't need it unless you want to compete -- and, frankly, real 'race guns' are often cranky little divas.
I spent many decades in the military and have put a lot of rounds downrange, mostly through pistols. If it were me, I'd at least have the Commander accurized a bit.
P.S. After rapidly scanning everyone else's advice, I must admit I've missed something. Before you consider any mods, I agree that you should run a 'few hundred' rounds through it. I've never accurized anything, personally, without putting at least 500 rounds through a pistol -- I like to diagnose the 'issues' before I go after 'em. Finally, those Busse-style grips (slabs, etc.) look awfully good to me...
If you're content to own it, to plink a little now and then, then leave it be.
If you want to make it a real shooter, perhaps even learn how to become a real shooter yourself using it, then you should get some basic smithing done -- throated, trigger job, tightened up here and there (tolerances improved), maybe better grips, and possibly even a new barrel (but only if you want tighter groups and intend to shoot a lot). A lot more can be done to a pistol, but you won't need it unless you want to compete -- and, frankly, real 'race guns' are often cranky little divas.
I spent many decades in the military and have put a lot of rounds downrange, mostly through pistols. If it were me, I'd at least have the Commander accurized a bit.
P.S. After rapidly scanning everyone else's advice, I must admit I've missed something. Before you consider any mods, I agree that you should run a 'few hundred' rounds through it. I've never accurized anything, personally, without putting at least 500 rounds through a pistol -- I like to diagnose the 'issues' before I go after 'em. Finally, those Busse-style grips (slabs, etc.) look awfully good to me...