Greenhorn trying to keep grind lines straight.

Joined
Nov 2, 2007
Messages
84
Any tips on keeping those grind lines straight? I seem to get a saddle most every time when flat grinding. Also once I go to far at the plunge cut, it seems almost impossible to get it back right. Now do most of you guys grind with the blade edge down or up? :confused:
 
Blade up. Make a file guide or purchase a great one from Riverside Machine with carbide face.
 
I grind edge up and start with the plunge cut using 36 grit, make a defined grind on the plunge leaning the edge in to the belt staying off the center line of the blade. then I always grind frome the plunge to the tip to keep from making the plunge too far back.
 
Most of us grind edge up. It's much easier to see what you're doing when it is edge up. I sometimes use a file guide, but not nearly as much as I used to use one. One trick I learned is to make your initial plunge grind about a 1/4" towards the tip from where you want your plunge to be when you're finished. Grind from your initial plunge to the tip, until you have it almost done. Then you can go back and work your plunge back to where you want it, by slowly feathering your plunge back towards your ricasso to the exact place that you want it. This is the only time I actually put my file guide on, is at the end when I'm working my plunge back towards the ricasso. This saves wear and tear on my file guides, since it isn't on during the entire grinding operation, but only at the very end.
 
Grind edge up and watch the contact of your edge to the belt/platen. Make sure you're making sparks from the center of the platen, not the edge nearest the plunge. It took me a while to figure out to watch the sparks because many of us have a tendency to push too hard on the handle as we're holding it, resulting in a high grind line at the plunge. Pretty soon you'll be able to feel if your grinding in the center of the platen or if you're tipping the blade and be able to manipulate that to achieve what you want.

--nathan
 
Go to Lowes or Home Depot and get a bunch of their BIG paint stirring sticks, think they're like .25 each. Practice on those.
 
Thanks to everyone for your help. I must be putting too much pressure on the handle. I was getting a high cut at the plunge. Also the tip on starting the plunge cuts are good advice. Always helps to have some knowledge before you practice because only perfect practice makes perfect. I just now started grinding edge up. As it seemed easier to make sure I was grinding towards my tip evenly on both sides looking down on the blade. I purchased a video that showed it that way I believe. Maybe I need to go back & watch it again. But even if it did I am now going to practice the right way. Thanks Again! I just for the life of me could not figure how people got that straight line across the top of your cut versus a cut following the curvature of the blade. And my biggest problem was getting too high and a messy looking plunge cut. :thumbup:
 
Also, since wood is so soft you have to develop a "touch" and learn how and where to apply pressure


good logic, i should be doing this myself, i flat grind freehand on a disc, in a very un-orthodox manner. im to cheap to invest in a reversible disc grinder, to dumb to wire the 2-way switch i have, and to lazy to build the knifemakers disc grinder i have the plans for........

anyway when i grind, i grind on a flat disc 9'', and grind the name side of the knife edge down, and the opposing side of the knife edge up, makes things tough, i grind free hand, but i do start and make my plunge cut with a file guide on, but after it's true'd up, i remove it. i feel it throws the knife off balance in my hand when grinding if i leave on the whole time, and i end up not keeping the blade level towards the tip.

doubtful this was any help, but just figured i'd throw it out there, also if ya ever go to the disc, i think the end results are better, imo.....but go with the beveled disc not the flat....well worth it, and i think they cost the same $$$

good luck

andrew
 
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