Grind Angle advice on Smaller Nessmuk Style Blade

G

g dub

Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Messages
62
I have not been too busy in my workshop lately but I thought that I would put this one up for some feedback. My Son turned 10 this year and will be able to start hunting with a youth license out here in BC this season so we came up with a knife design based off of the Grohman Bird and Trout. We worked on the design and he picked out the handle material. The specs are as follows:

CPM 154 from Knifemaker.ca and HT to 60rc
OAL 7inches
Cutting edge 3 inches
1/8" thick
Handle Material is dymondwood
Tapered tang
machine finished on the bevels with the rest hand sanded to 600 grit
Kydex pancake style sheath


This blade has a great balance point at just where you index finger sits and the CPM 154 I found easy to work with.

So here is where I am looking for some input, with this blade shape I found it hard not to have the bevel grind break the spine without making the back portion of the blade overly thick behind the edge, the height of the blade just in front of the plunge is right around 5/8". So If I want to keep from breaking the spine with the grind lines would I be better of going with a different grind like a hollow or sabre? Or with the rise of the spine from the ricasso towards the point should I be slightly changing the bevel angle? I like the full flat grind on this type of blade just looking for some input from the voices of experience so to speak. You can see in the last photo what I am talking about with the plunge grind breaking the spine.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/Fz7K7o]IMG_20160404_071838 by G dub 1, on Flickr[/URL]

IMG_20160404_071909 by G dub 1, on Flickr


At the end of the day this knife was intended to be a user and has already seen some action on a couple of trout fishing excursions to some local lakes. I am happy with how it turned out I am just looking to improve my skills, General comments and critiques welcome. Thanks in advance.

G Dub
 
I agree on the flat grind for this style of knife. I see you ground distal taper to the rear but not towards the tip; why is that? Doing so would have made for a much better cutter. No distal taper results in to much thickness just behind the tip which results in some wild angle swings in order to get some degree of sharpness thats acceptable to you.

I the 5/8 inch high at the plunge line correct? How thick is the spine above the plunge cuts?

Fred
 
I didn't put a distal taper towards the tip as I was worried that the balance would be too far into the handle and I was not sure how to meet the two distal tapers.

Yes the height of the blade is 5/8" I should have provided something in the photo for reference this is definitely the smallest blade I have made to date. For reference I wear size XL gloves and can't get all four fingers on the handle this is more of what I would call a caper skinner sized blade that I thought would be an appropriate sized blade for a 10 year old
 
On the distal taper forward, leave the ricasso are untouched. The distal taper forward makes the whole grind easier, I think.

Fred
 
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