Grinder: 110/220?

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May 23, 2008
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I hope this is being posted in the correct section to discuss...

Anyway, I am no where near an electrician and really have limited knowledge of voltage and all, but will need to make a decision: Should my grinder run at 110 or 220 volt? It's a Bader and I need to decide on the motor. For my current "shop" I don't have much 220 access, but for the future things could be different. I am really wondering what the difference will be. Loss of power? It will be a 1.5 hp, and I won't be really digging in for now I don't think. Will I lose anything in the long run if I just get 110? Thanks
 
Yes,110v will do fine! ofcourse it will give you less power and eat for hydro :D but it will work fine.your motor can probably be wired for either.
 
If you can wire in some 220V, do it. It will amke your like easier...now and later.
Stacy
 
I have 110 on my Griz but recently bought a 220v Bader. Like Stacy said, go 220v now and save some time instead of upgrading later.
 
The 1.5HP should be able to be wired for either, so you can upgrade later if you want. That being said, you should put 220 in if you have the ability to do so, it opens up your options later on.
 
220 volt i'm sure works better as (correct me if i am wrong) you won't have power drops like with 110volt ? I know that 220 takes half the amps that 110 does, or so i've heard!
 
My first KMG was a 1.5hp on 110. I reciently ran 220 in my garage and purchased a 2hp lesson for my second. I like it much better. The 1.5 was fine except if I laid into something it would bog down a bit. The 2hp does not bog at all!:D
 
Running your grinder on 115 volts or 230 volts will make no difference in power consumption or the amount of power the grinder will have.

Power = Watts = volts x amps

If your grinder draws 10 amps at 110 volts 10 x 110 = 1100 watts
If your grinder is wired for 220 volts it will draw 5 amps 5 x 230 = 1100 watts

You pay for the amount of watts you consume so it is a wash.

If your motor is 1.5 HP and is a dual voltage motor it will output 1.5 horsepower at either voltage.
Having the right wiring to the grinder is the important thing make sure it is big enough to handle th current draw.

I hope this was of help

Take Care
Charles
 
Running your grinder on 115 volts or 230 volts will make no difference in power consumption or the amount of power the grinder will have.

Power = Watts = volts x amps

If your grinder draws 10 amps at 110 volts 10 x 110 = 1100 watts
If your grinder is wired for 220 volts it will draw 5 amps 5 x 230 = 1100 watts

You pay for the amount of watts you consume so it is a wash.

If your motor is 1.5 HP and is a dual voltage motor it will output 1.5 horsepower at either voltage.
Having the right wiring to the grinder is the important thing make sure it is big enough to handle th current draw.

I hope this was of help

Take Care
Charles

Not trying to be a smart ass I just have no idea here... Whats the point of 220 over 110 if this is true?
 
The point of running 220 is because you're limited in HP on 110V. 1HP = 746W if a motor is 100% efficient which means that a typical 20A circuit could handle right around 3HP. Unfortunately, you only get 60% efficiency or so, maybe close to 70% on a real nice motor. This would put you just a tad under 2HP on a 20A 110V circuit. At that point you'd really want 25A+ to run a true 2HP motor, you could play with the numbers and say "I can run 2HP" but you're just playing the numbers. Most wiring is going to be 14 or 12GA, rated to handle 15 & 20A respectively, which means you'd have to rewire and find a 25A breaker, so why not run 220 at that point?

If you decide to run more HP or decide you'd like some other larger tooling, you'll need 220V. 220V will put you in the 4-6KW range and open up your tooling options, 110V will limit power to about 1.5HP (or two on liberally rated motors).
 
Keep in mind:

The load can only be 80% of the rating for the wire and the breaker.


On my grinder 1 hp, 110 v 3400 RPM, the plate says 12 amps
on a 15 amp circuit - that's my limit before going to heavier wire and larger breakers.

When I shopped for motors, 1 hp at 1750 rpm took more amps (don't know why?)

If you are using a 1.5 HP and your circuits are currently 15 amps, you will likely have to run wire anyway. If that's the case go 220 = cheaper wire thinner wire required.

As already said, most motors are now dual voltage 110 & 220
Buy the motor first then -Call up a few electricians and get quotations for each way, see what they say.
 
You don't have to re-wire the entire shop/house to get 220V in the shop. Just run one 30 amp circuit out to a single box at the bench. It only requires one "10/3 with ground" wire to be pulled. The whole job can easily be done for $50 by someone who knows how, or by an electrician for maybe $150-200. I would be willing to bet you have several friends or electricians who would do it for a knife.

220V in the shop allows you to run a HT oven, or a larger welder, or a bigger motor, etc.
It allows the shop to be run more efficiently and safer.

220V does not cut the electricity use in half ( a common misunderstanding). The amps are half as much, but they are on two lines ,not one. The gain is the ability to deliver twice as much power to the motor without overheating the building wiring. This also applies to the wiring in the motor. A dual voltage motor will run cooler on 220V than on 110V. Any electricity used to make heat energy does not make kinetic energy, and thus the motor is more efficient on 220V ( but the total wattage drawn is the same either way). Above 1.5HP, you really have to use 220V.

220V is not some mysterious current source , like 3 phase. It is just a voltage being drawn from two separate legs of the power feed. Chances are that your shop already has 220V in it if it has a power box of its own. Usually the lights are on one leg and the outlets are on the other. (That way the lights don't go out if you pop a breaker - big safety issue).
Stacy
 
Also, you can easily run the 220v line to a work box, then have one of the legs break out to a 110v outlet or two, giving you the opportunity to use bigger equipment AND have common 110v outlets. Just make sure you talk to an electrician before you start working, or better yet, have them do it! It's not a good idea to let 220v circuits be your opening learning experience with electricity!
 
Stacy's post probably sums it up the best so far. Another item to consider is load on the motor. Take a belt grinder. When you really start hogging material you put a force load on the motor that resists the turning of the motor. This will cause the current to spike. On a 110V system, because you are using twice the amps for the same sized motor, these spikes will, in general, be twice as large as they would for the equivalent 220V system. Due to wire resistance and motor impedence the 110V load current can be even higher.

Bottom line is more breaker trips under heavy load.

Erin

220V does not cut the electricity use in half ( a common misunderstanding). The amps are half as much, but they are on two lines ,not one. The gain is the ability to deliver twice as much power to the motor without overheating the building wiring. This also applies to the wiring in the motor. A dual voltage motor will run cooler on 220V than on 110V. Any electricity used to make heat energy does not make kinetic energy, and thus the motor is more efficient on 220V ( but the total wattage drawn is the same either way). Above 1.5HP, you really have to use 220V.
 
In my experience, the 110V Bader trips the breaker only when you turn it on. Motors have a very high draw when they first start.
 
For an electric motor you do not need 10/3 or 12/3. 10/2 or 12/2 is fine. You actually only need three wire for dryers, etc. No 4 wire for a 2hp lesson motor. I just installed mine a few weeks ago and used 12/2. Also the statement about that it can be done for $50. Have you purchased a 50'-100 roll of wire lately! Holy ****!!
 
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