grinders

howiesatwork said:
You want a motor, Christof?
I have the Leeson I took off my BurrKing and replaced with a variable speed Baldor.
The Leeson has a minute or two run time on it.
Is gonna cost you, though... a knife somewhere down the road, and you get to come pick it up, unless you'd rather i shipped it...
Howie
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Howie, was it hard to replace the motor on the Burr-King? Aren't they an "integral" design? I mean, not like a Bader, or a KMG, right? Thanks.
- Mitch
 
Nope, it was easy.
It all bolts and screws together. The motor is the base for the rest of the grinder, and eveything is mounted to the motor.
Just a regiular TEFC motor.
 
howiesatwork said:
Nope, it was easy.
It all bolts and screws together. The motor is the base for the rest of the grinder, and eveything is mounted to the motor.
Just a regiular TEFC motor.
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Thanks, Howie. That sounds like you have a sweet setup there! Good to know for the future...in case I hit the lottery or something. (Burr-King= $$$) :D
- Mitch
 
done! kitchen or field, and after christmas?

and now I have yet another reason to drive to Santa Cruz!

And, man, that is a pretty cool gesture.
 
koyote said:
done! kitchen or field, and after christmas?

and now I have yet another reason to drive to Santa Cruz!

And, man, that is a pretty cool gesture.
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Now, if it came with a Gorilla dipped para-cord drive belt, you'd be in heaven! :D
 
koyote said:
I hadn't really looked hard at the Coote before.

The motor is still an issue, but I do have a 6 amp (at 120V) 3450 rpm motor here. way underpowered but with the right pulleys maybe I can get by for a while until I find a 1.5 horse. I'd love input on that, too.

and now I've talked to my sage wife about it, and she has given me sound advice (mostly saying "uh huh") and it's a toss up between a Coote and xmas money for a better motor- then spend next year working on a no weld grinder before selling off the coote.

Or getting a NWG with at least a flat platen done in within 2 weeks from now. With whatever I can build out for $500. You'd think Tracy would have some input here :)
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I'm not sure I should be in this thread. I don't like to try and sell stuff in this forum. No one else wants that either so I'll answer any specfic questions on the no weld grinder plans if some one has one.

I can speak from experience about the grizzly. That was my first grinder. I bought the 10" wheel to hollow grind (the motor gets in the way with 8" whee) and it went so fast I had a hell of a time getting a decent grind line. Any tickle, bump or sneeze was a disaster at that speed. When I'd done around 50 blades with the grizz, I bought a variable speed KMG. The quality of my grinds "doubled" (what ever that means) instantly with the slower speeds. I converted the grizz to a buffer years ago. It works great for that. If you are going low price for a grinder and you aren't going to build, get a coote and use triple pulley set up to control the speed. If you can afford it, I think the KMG is a fantastic grinder for the money.

I think a variable speed on a grinder will improve some one's grinding more than the grinder it's self - at least initially. A better grinder gives you a more solid machine and quick tool changes. Time is money. Still I think most guys looking to set up their first serious grinder past a 1"x30" or sears belt/disc special should set their main priority on controlling the speed and buying a grinder with what is left. Put your money into variable speed, then start saving for top of the line grinder. The variable speed will move over to the new grinder.

If I had to start all over again on a budget, I would start with a minimum triple pulley set up. I played with one all summer working on my grinder plans and I can not get over how well it works for such a little amount of money. If could afford the best, I'd go with a (220volt) 2hp VFD set up. In between, there is a DC variable speed option for 1.5hp.
 
thanks, Tray-

I do already have the NWG plans I bought, and I really want to make one. I was asking more on that level.

From what I've gathered on multiple forums and reading a lot of posts- and emailing Norm- If I get a Coote now and build the NWG over the winter and spring as I go, I'm just going to end up with 2 grinders, which no one who has 2 seems to mind!
 
koyote said:
thanks, Tray-

I do already have the NWG plans I bought, and I really want to make one. I was asking more on that level.

From what I've gathered on multiple forums and reading a lot of posts- and emailing Norm- If I get a Coote now and build the NWG over the winter and spring as I go, I'm just going to end up with 2 grinders, which no one who has 2 seems to mind!
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NO ONE has a problem with owning multiple grinders! hahah that's great.
variable speed = better knives...
 
well, just sent the money order off for the 8 inch coote with a knife rest.

Is it worth trying to track down the triple v belt pulleys or just line up singles?
 
don't have the Coote yet, but Howie has sent me home with this teensy leeetle baldor.

12.6 amps at 120VAC, that's what, 1/8 HP ? :p


Holeee crap, have I got a motor now :D

Thanks many to howie, who is going to get a hell of a knife off of the coote once I get it all up and running.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
if it's drawing 12.5 amps of power, that's a pretty hefty motor . There should be a plate on it which tells you the rating and such. My 1hp baldor draws 13 amps at 110, which means you've probably got a 1hp motor (which is what i use on my coote) a 1/3 hp motor draws 6 amps
 
I believe that's actually more around 2hp, electrical wise

12.6 * 120 = 1512 watts
1 hp = 750 watts if I'm remembering right

it's all marketing BS anyway though, ever seen a 2 hp router? Motor looks a little different than a 2 hp grinder motor doesn't it?
 
Oh, I was joking, I know it's a hefty motor. It's 1HP on the plate, but the math on 12.8 says 1500 watts and change which is technically 2HP.

But Baldor can call it a 1HP, I don't care. it's a big badd ass motor. and it will make the Coote sing.
 
Due to losses in the motor (no motor is 100% efficient) the shaft hp is always less than the electrical hp. It is the shaft hp that appears on the motor name plate.

One also has to take into account the phase difference between the voltage and current when calculating the electrical hp of the motor. the power factor (PF) for 3-phase motors this size is typically in the range of 0.8 to 0.9. I am not sure what it is for single-phase motors but it is probably similar.

electrical hp = voltage * current * PF

The motors in routers turn at much higher speeds than the motors you are using in the grinders so they can be made smaller.

Phil
 
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