Grinding 1/16" 15N20, before or after HT.

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Brian.Evans

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I have a bunch of 15N20 in 1/16" that I want to use for single bevel paring knives, neckers, and "church knives." I'm assuming due to the thin stock I'd profile, HT, then grind the bevels?

I hate doing that because I'm afraid the craftsman is going to run so fast it will burn the edge very easily. Guess I'm going to be doing a lot of hand sanding to thin the edge down?
 
I think if your careful and dip in cool water after every pass you shouldn't have a problem. But, I don't have the craftsmen so I'm not sure.
 
After H/T for sure.Use new sharp belts,light touch,dunk often and you'll be fine.
Stan
 
While I've not worked with 15N20, or made any style of blade as thin as 1/16", I would agree with what has already been said and will just reinforce that advice. From what little I do know about the higher alloy steels, It should be safe to heat treat and then develop an edge - but certainly take your time and keep the edge cool. If you're a little unsure, there's always the option of establishing the start of an edge before treatment and then finishing the edge afterwards. Best of luck in this endeavor.
 
SBuzek said:
After H/T for sure.Use new sharp belts,light touch,dunk often and you'll be fine.
Stan
Click to expand...

^^This^^ though I've never worked that steel I just done a bunch of 1/16" 01... I have 5 gal bucket of water perched up on another 5 gal bucket that reaches really close to my grinder, make a pass dunk and repeat.. and as said start with a new belt, I use 50grit after HT for bevel, then 80, 120 and onward...

I think a lot of people have a negative impression on fast grinders, I actually prefer FAST !!! :)

take care
 
It's not too bad other than burning the tips. I have an issue burning very fine tips. That and getting a bevel very thin prior to sharpening. I'm getting better, but I still want a slower grinder.

Also, battlecreek, how did working 1/16" go with 50 grit belts? Was there enough metal to not burn through trying to get all the deep low grit scratches out?
 
yes not bad at all because the steel will already be hardened is the reason I jumped to 50 grit, don't try to sharpen just cut the bevel and bring it down a few mils.. then jump to 80 to remove marks, the 120 you can pretty much sharpen with if you'd like pending what the knife is going to be used for.. remember if you're burning your fingers its to hot, as far as edges go on 1/16"

here's a solution that may work to bring your grinder to variable speed, look for an old tread mil and retrieve the control off of it.. doubt a light dimmer would work but you never know, may be make shift but that's the name of the game.. a lot can be done with a harbor freight also, just takes more time... the only thing I do slow is sharpening...
 
I'm running the Craftsman right now, but anamachinist/Nick is making some wheels for me, then I'm going to put together my GIB clone! Woohoo variables speed! I cannot wait.

Thank you for your input everyone. Also, battlecreek, get your website done! I want to see specs on those knives!
 
I'm with Stan too. Post HT even for 3/32" stuff, especially on folders. I go to a good 60 grit to start and as long as you don't try and rush things you shouldn't have trouble burning tips or grinding it too thin. Sometimes the best thing is to jump in head first on a grind. And if you screw it up, just chalk it up to a learning experience.

Don't be afraid to take it slow and grind it right.
 
A trick I use for working thin stock is I clamp my blade to a piece of aluminum angle iron to work as a heat sink. It will extend grindin time enough to allow more work on the tip.


-Xander
 
I use that material quite a lot.
If you can do some of the grinding off the platen and still get the edge contour you want, it'll run cooler.
Other than that, what everyone else says: new belts run WAAAY cooler than old ones.
Andy
 
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