Grinding Cheaply

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Apr 24, 2006
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Would it be possible to begin making knives using a variable speed Dremel for stock removal and grinding? Obviously this isn't optimal, but for a cheap alternative to buying an expensive and space-eating grinder, would it be feasible?

Want to begin making and modding knives, but space and money are limited.
 
Not really, they are hobby grinders for removing small amounts of metal, you guys can get small cheap belt grinders .

Richard
 
Yeah, I think you'll have better luck with a small belt sander than a Dremel.
 
you'll spend more on the dremels you burn up and the dremel bits than you would spend on a good grinder and belts within several knives. buy annealed steel and nicholson files if you want to go cheap

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I tried a long time ago. It's nearly impossible to get a flat bevel with a dremel-type tool, and as said above it will cost you more in the long run.

You're much better off with a cheap belt sander (under $100, I've ground dozens of blades with a Craftsman 2x48 and it's still going strong) for grinding profiles and bevels. And on a strict budget you can get nice flat or convex bevels with good files, just not as quickly.

Keep the dremel for cutting pins, sanding tight inside curves and other light work.
 
An angle grinder and a coarse file would be a start, but you're better off with a cheap grinder (eg. Grizzly).
 
A good handful of Nicholson or Pferd files and a 1x30 belt sander will go a long way for starting off. Dremels are absolutely worthless for that kind of work. They work ok for flushing scales to a handle though. Just be sure to buy bulk sanding drums on eBay--getting them in those little 5-packs is an absolute rip-off.
 
They work ok for flushing scales to a handle though. Just be sure to buy bulk sanding drums on eBay--getting them in those little 5-packs is an absolute rip-off.

Good point. I order 3M sanding sleeves from MSC Supply in bags of 100. They're better quality than the crap at Sears or Lowes and come out much cheaper even considering shipping cost. They're also available up to 240 grit... I've heard of finer grits available from jewelr's supply places but haven't tried them yet.
 
Would it be possible to begin making knives using a variable speed Dremel for stock removal and grinding?

Dremels are good tools, but they are not designed for this kind of work.

You would be far better off using files, or buying an inexpensive grinder from Sears or Harbor Freight.
 
I would agree that Dremel's are not that great for this, they can work, but I would recommend trying a cheap grinder. I think you can get one for around $40 or $50 at a place like Harbor Freight (you can order online).
 
Thanks for the info guys. I'm thinking of picking up a Grizzly 1x42" belt/8" disc combo. For about $170 it seems to be a fair compromise between price and usefulness.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I'm thinking of picking up a Grizzly 1x42" belt/8" disc combo. For about $170 it seems to be a fair compromise between price and usefulness.

Now you're thinkin' :) $170 is on the high side for that type of grinder, shop around a bit for a deal. Take the money you save and stock up on good belts from Tru-Grit or SuperGrit, or Ebay seller BarbKat. All three can get you much better belts than you can find at Sears or HF, and the price will be the same or better.

I would recommend a 2" grinder though, it's easier to make bevels with. You can probably still use 1" belts on it if you want. The price shouldn't be any more than what you're looking at now.
 
Ok, some more research found me a Craftsman 2x42" belt/6" wheel for about $30 less than the Grizzly, and it can be delivered to a local store in about a week and a half. Sounds like I may be in business within the month.
 
Good compromise...many of us have had that same grinder at some point! I made enough knives on mine to buy my KMG...I still use the sears for the disc and for roughing handles.

You'll need good belts. Practice on some of those free paint stirrers before you go to real steel. It's a cheap way to start practicing setting the bevels.

I tended to still do a bit more hand sanding and set plunges with a file when I had that grinder but it's far superior to a 1" belt and you'll eventually use the disc as much as the belt! Good luck!
 
+1 on the Craftsman, I'm still using mine. Put a nice flat hard face on the platen (ceramic tile, fireplace glass, hardened steel... almost anything like that will help) and some good belts and you're in business.
 
Get a Craftsman 2x42. You wont find a better "cheap" way to get started unless you want to do it all with a file.
 
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I use the Craftsman 1" belt x 8" disk 5/8 HP (or 1/3 as it says on the motor) one. I recommended HF because I know how easy it is to get hard up for money. I believe we have had this one for over 10 years and the only problem I've seen with it is if you get a one direction belt and put it on backwards. Luckily it didn't break the belt but the main drive pulley stared popping pretty bad. I would like to work on a 2" just to get a feel before I recommend either one but if you don't need it for a lot of small pieces or more intricate work I think a 2" would do great. I am very thankful I have a 6" belt x 9" disk but those can run pretty darn high and its impossible (for me anyway) to put anything small on it.
 
I know this is a little late, and I don't know if I am going to go this direction because I like the files myself but...

You guys have any links for these suggestions? Every time I take a look at this type of stuff I came across belt grinders/sanders for wood not something that will work with steel?
 
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