Grinding Handles With Bolsters?

Michael J. Spangler

Michael J. Spangler

Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
2,181
hey guys.... i just finished up a knife with bolsters and i found i tend to grind deeper into the handle material than the bolster, which i think if a common problem. so what can i do to fix this??

i know that using the platen and X weight belts will help for straighter handles i hold the knife parallel to the belt to kind of use the bolster as a guide for the belt.

but this seems to be only good for straighter handles... what if i wanted some taper or a little dip or something? how the heck can i keep it nice and even??

i know i can use hand tools and such, but i know there's a faster way

any suggestions would help very much an be very appreciated thanks again guys... i'll post pics of the new knife later
 
Don't grind.
Too many mistakes to be made.
Clamp that blade in a rotating vise.
Using sharp files, shape the handle exactly like you want it!
Put some tape on the bolsters. Let the file just slightly start to touch the tape and then you're done! Stop filing just short of scratching the bolsters. Finsh with sandpaper, starting at 220 or so, and blending your handle material gradually into the bolster.
Don't get caught in the trap of thinking you have to do everything with that expensive grinder!
I may use a sharp 36 grit to just knock the corners off of my handle block to get even just a little handle profile going, but I do 90% or more of the handle with files.
Much more control and far easier to control symmetry.
 
I use different size contact wheels to shape the handle with the coarser belts. When I switch to the slack belt I use J flex belts and let them hang off the wheel so the edge curls around and won't dig into the handle material. When the sharp edge of the belt hits the hard bolster it tends to dig in a bit. Also working from the bolster towards the handle helps, but still keeping the curl on the belt.
Good luck, Joe
 
I have gone full circle on this one. I began with all hand tools from start to finish. Then I began to try and do things faster and began doing all my work on the grinder. Got faster all right, faster to screw things up. Now I am back to Rough grinding and then finish it out by hand. I get a lot of personal satisfaction when i finish it out by hand. I agree with Stacy do it by hand with files and sandpaper.

Chuck
 
Michael J. Spangler said:
:thumbdn::D booo no fun. thats what i did on this one... but it takes too long
Click to expand...


How long is it going to take you make, fit and reattach another set of bolsters?

I don't use bolsters but when fitting a hande with a guard I will shape and take the guard to almost final finish. Then I use a couple layers of tape on it and slack belt the handle until the belt JUST starts to eat into the tape. Using a sanding block (piece of micarta) I sand the handle material flush to the guard by running the paper over the guard and handle at the same time, sanding parrallel to the spine. If you don't use a hard backed sanding block it will sand the wood lower than the guard. I then remove the handle material, finish the handle, finish up the guard, refit to ensure I didn't mess things up too badly then assemble.

edited to add: I split my 2x72 belts for slack belt sanding

There's probably a much better way to do this.

Will
formerly known as badbamaump
 
I found a trick that worked real well for me. I taped up the blade of course, and held the knife vertically blade up, and used my platen to shape the bolsters and the handle. I just rotated the knife around the vertical axis on the platen. This way the bolster and handles are in the same plane at the same time. No divot oalfter the bolster. I did this up to 200 or 400 grit. Hand finished the rest. Try it. Just tape up the blade real good.
-John
 
Karl B. Andersen said:
Don't get caught in the trap of thinking you have to do everything with that expensive grinder!
QUOTE]

Great Advice. I messed up 2 handles this weekend tring to do 90% of the shaping and sanding on the grinder. This morning driving to work, I desided to try only using files.......Guess I was heading in the right direction.

Great post!

Dennis
Click to expand...
 
get it close over a platen on the belt, then glue sandpaper to a steel block and finish it by hand. The steel block will keep the paper from going deeper in the soft parts than the hard part next to it

-Page
 
john i like your idea.. thats basically what i tried to do... i think its going to be a combinations of that with some hand sanding.... i did forget to do some of my bolster shaping prior to putting on the handle slabs... i think that would have helped me also... i could work less agressively if all i had to do blend the handles to the bolster... thanks again guys you're help is always much appreciated.

i think i might look into a rotary platen.... i think that would be a good happy medium betwen the slack belt and a flat platen.... give some good results i hope. now i just need to save up for one:(

thanks again guys. keep the ideas coming. did everyone see the knife i posted? that's the one i was talking about. crappy pictures though. i used my brother inlaw's set-up... its as messed up as he is.

thanks again
 
Michael,
I ordered a rotary platen the other day. I'll let you know if it helps. I think if you work the bolsters a little before putting on the scales it does help. Just be careful not to round of the edge butting up to the scales. I usually flatten and profile mine before adding the scales. There honestly is a little back and forth on the slack belt or half a belt, before going vertical on the platen. I would say just use the platen techniques to remove the dips only, not shaped the whole thing. That is how it worked for me. Good luck.
-John
 
Simple solution..... I usually grind the softer material (99.999% of the time the handle slabs) first and get it all contoured out etc... Then I put on the bolsters and grind and shape them. It eliminates the whole problem.


MT
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top