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- Dec 11, 2000
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Never mind...Thanks for looking. Answer provided on Knifenetworks.
When building a liner lock, can you grind the blade's lock face against a flat plattern, or do you need to use a hard wheel for best results?
If you can grind on the plattern, are there any pros or cons to having the steel approach the belt from either an acute, or obtuse angle?
Everyone seems to agree that for a liner lock, the locking face of the blade needs to be set at about 8 degrees, give or take 1/2 a degree. Bob Terzoula's book shows him using a jig to grind using a 4-inch hardwood wheel, or to use a milling cutter. Other sources show the use of special high Shore hardness rubber wheels and carefully adjusted tool rests.
Right now I have access to a mill at work, but at home I have only a 10" diameter Coote grinder, which does not lend itself to swapping wheels. It does however have a work rest against the plattern (ceramic faced) that can be adjusted between 90 and about 135 degrees from the belt. Setting this to 98deg would be approaching at an obtuse angle.
To approach the platter from an acute angle I would need to set the rest to 90deg and make a jig that would hold the blade at 82deg to the belt. To use the wheel I would need to construct a better tool rest/jig.
Before I start so much as laying out knife designs, let alone cutting metal, I want to know that I have at least most of the jigs and tools to do a reasonable job, and anyway, planning the job is half the fun
Anyway, I have searched through the forum fairly extensively, but if someone has answered this already I would be just as happy with a link to the older info...no need to re-hash if you don't have to
When building a liner lock, can you grind the blade's lock face against a flat plattern, or do you need to use a hard wheel for best results?
If you can grind on the plattern, are there any pros or cons to having the steel approach the belt from either an acute, or obtuse angle?
Everyone seems to agree that for a liner lock, the locking face of the blade needs to be set at about 8 degrees, give or take 1/2 a degree. Bob Terzoula's book shows him using a jig to grind using a 4-inch hardwood wheel, or to use a milling cutter. Other sources show the use of special high Shore hardness rubber wheels and carefully adjusted tool rests.
Right now I have access to a mill at work, but at home I have only a 10" diameter Coote grinder, which does not lend itself to swapping wheels. It does however have a work rest against the plattern (ceramic faced) that can be adjusted between 90 and about 135 degrees from the belt. Setting this to 98deg would be approaching at an obtuse angle.
To approach the platter from an acute angle I would need to set the rest to 90deg and make a jig that would hold the blade at 82deg to the belt. To use the wheel I would need to construct a better tool rest/jig.
Before I start so much as laying out knife designs, let alone cutting metal, I want to know that I have at least most of the jigs and tools to do a reasonable job, and anyway, planning the job is half the fun
Anyway, I have searched through the forum fairly extensively, but if someone has answered this already I would be just as happy with a link to the older info...no need to re-hash if you don't have to
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