Grinding metal handle spacers

M

milkbaby

Joined
Aug 1, 2016
Messages
644
I'm attempting a handle with spacers of G10 and copper mated to non-stabilized black palm and walnut. The copper has been heating up quickly when I am grinding the scales on my belt and disc grinder, and I've had two different epoxy bonds fail so far from the heat buildup. I only have a cheap grizzly grinder without speed control.

Below is a picture of some glue up on my table right now. The rectangle in the middle is G10 and copper spacers to go between the outer scale assembly and the tang. A lot of places for epoxy to fail... Knowing what I do now, I probably will try use some small hidden pins to help keep things together in the future, but overheating will still be an issue grinding metal spacers.

TP8YAgZl.jpg


Any tips for avoiding heat destroying the epoxy bonds? Just go slower? Use newer abrasive? Skip the grinder and use hand files and/or hard backed sandpaper? The only power tools I have are my grinder and a drill press, so I'm trying to figure out how best to shape the scales to the tang eventually. I don't have a bandsaw to rough shape the scales, not sure how well I can do it by hand sawing with a coping saw or hacksaw...
 
If your issue is with heat building up when grinding to the shape of your tang, or outside handle profile on that hidden tang one, I would try to things, one go to a very coarse grit--that will cut very quick, and they generate less heat than finer grits. Also another angle of attack is using an angle grinder with an aggressive flap disc, say a diamond coated one perhaps. If all else is failing you. cut your scales as close to the profile you need as possible and then go at em with a coarse mill bastard file.
 
i use loveless bolts, i keep a pitcher with water and ice, and dip the handle as i am shaping it. an important point is to dip it *before* it gets too hot. depending on the speed of the machine/sharpness of the belt/ how much pressure see how long you can sand with your particular situation, before it gets hot. dip in water a few seconds earlier to avoid it.
 
Is the grizzly grinder the 2X72" version? If so, it's VERY fast and will build heat rapidly. As said before, use a new coarse belt, make very light cuts each time, dipping in water to cool BEFORE it gets hot. Hand files 'n sandpaper will also work.

Ken H>
 
Use coarse (new) belts to rough shape and then hand sand. Use good slow curing epoxy and let it cure for 24 hours before working with it. You can also try some hidden pins to strengthen things up.
 
Use a file to do most of it and hand sand the rest. A grinder , unless running very slow, will overheat copper in one second.
 
Thanks everybody! I am using a Grizzly 1x30 with a 6" disc too. The epoxy I have is the Bob Smith 30 minute. I didn't realize wooden handles would be OK with dipping in water for grinding.
 
I only dip stabilized wooden handles. Others may have luck with non stabilized wood but I haven't. Seems like it swells and then once it dries the tang and pins are proud.
 
Different solutions:
- use rasps, files, than sandpaper on a stick
- use alignment pins, grind; it is a pro technique worth learning the soonest. glue at the end and just get rid of glue residues afterward.
- use a variabile speed grinder
- the best is a combination of those techniques.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top