I have an Endura 3 no one wants to trade for and it's a fully serrated edge. I don't care for them much nor do I enjoy sharpening them, so I planned to take them off and make the knife plain edge. Is there anything I should be aware of before I do this, any tips, suggestions, warnings etc?
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Grinding Off Serrations
- Thread starter Vivi
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I would think that grinding off the serrations would seriously affect the temper of the steel due to the intense heat generated in the process. Perhaps you can try to sell it on ebay or through the forums? Unless you are some kind of metallurgist and can maintain the temper (and also the aesthetic lines) of the knife, the grinding you suggest will probabgly ruin it IMHO.
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i'll take it off your hands for you, just mail it to my house...
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Nevermind...I didn't read your post carefully.
I'll be doing it by hand on a concrete block and would take breaks so as to not heat it up that much. If I did this, would that pose any problems outside of the temper issue?
The reason I'm doing this is as a serrated clip knife the only things I've used it for or plan to use it for is cutting up meats and carrying for self-defense, since most my folders are clip free and two handed opening. I have plain edged knives that cut meats up fine with push cuts, and I don't really care about the SD aspects of a knife to begin with. For me, if this project was successful, it wouldn't be ruined but more usable for my tasks. I'd also be doing some serious reprofiling to make it closer to flat ground.
If you're interested in trading for it, I have a thread posted in the trade forums. I've had my eyes on a G10 Byrd and I feel like I'm cursed and will never get offered one, so if anyone has a G10 Cara Cara I'll toss in a Vic Classic too.
The reason I'm doing this is as a serrated clip knife the only things I've used it for or plan to use it for is cutting up meats and carrying for self-defense, since most my folders are clip free and two handed opening. I have plain edged knives that cut meats up fine with push cuts, and I don't really care about the SD aspects of a knife to begin with. For me, if this project was successful, it wouldn't be ruined but more usable for my tasks. I'd also be doing some serious reprofiling to make it closer to flat ground.
If you're interested in trading for it, I have a thread posted in the trade forums. I've had my eyes on a G10 Byrd and I feel like I'm cursed and will never get offered one, so if anyone has a G10 Cara Cara I'll toss in a Vic Classic too.
Chin Mullet
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Dude you've got to be kidding me. 
I would just buy a plain edge. You can find a used one for like $30 or so and a new one for like $44.
I would just buy a plain edge. You can find a used one for like $30 or so and a new one for like $44.
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J85909266 said:
whoa whoa whoa,i didn't say anything about buuuying, just relieving vivi of his endura burden.
Chin Mullet said:Dude you've got to be kidding me.
I would just buy a plain edge. You can find a used one for like $30 or so and a new one for like $44.
I'm broke, that's not an option. I don't see much of a reason not to grind them off and make the knife more usable for me, unless I got offered something that I'd use more than an endura, such as a Buck 110 or Vic Soldier. Link
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Don't you already have plenty of straight edge knives? Why not keep that one the way it is? You obviously haven't been in a cutting situation where the fully serrated blade can show you what it's capable of. Trust me, they arne't useless, and definatly have their strengths. Keep it around for a while before you ruin such a classic, time proven knife.Vivi said:
It wouldn't be ruined, far from it. It would be better for me. I've used serrations and I know when they're handy, and I know those times are incredibly rare for me. I'd rather have another plain edge knife and be redundant than have a knife that isn't going to be used.
Chin Mullet
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Vivi said:
Stop smoking weed then and save for a new knife.
(For those that don't know he admits to smoking weed regularly.)
(For those that don't know I haven't smoked weed in a month and haven't purchased weed in about half a year, not to mention the fact that I've stated time and time again that skateboarding is a higher financial priority to me than knives. That's where the little money I do have goes, aside from food and gas - not to drugs.)
Again, I am broke and buying a new one is not an option. I would prefer we stay on the subject of knives, not your judgements of my life which you've proven to be quite ignorant of. I came here requesting advice for modifying one of my knives, not to be told it would decrease the value of said knife, that I need serrations more than I think or to have people insult my lifestyle.
Again, I am broke and buying a new one is not an option. I would prefer we stay on the subject of knives, not your judgements of my life which you've proven to be quite ignorant of. I came here requesting advice for modifying one of my knives, not to be told it would decrease the value of said knife, that I need serrations more than I think or to have people insult my lifestyle.
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Personally, I'd not be grinding the serrations off any knife.
Ruins resale, makes the blade thinner in depth and affects the edge profile (which can be dealt with, but it is like dealing with a well used knife). Not to mention it just looks like crap in most cases (kills the original proportions).
Look for a trade or ebay it if it is in good condition. Also, have you checked out any pawn shops or fleamarkets or such?
Ruins resale, makes the blade thinner in depth and affects the edge profile (which can be dealt with, but it is like dealing with a well used knife). Not to mention it just looks like crap in most cases (kills the original proportions).
Look for a trade or ebay it if it is in good condition. Also, have you checked out any pawn shops or fleamarkets or such?
Only two small issues that I can see with this plan.
First, a concrete block is not the most efficient abrasive, it's going to take a while to do the job, and it will rough up the side of the blade a bit. But if you've got the time......and the scuffs can be polished out with sandpaper. The blade angle will become more obtuse as you grind unless you lay the blade almost flat on the block as you work. It's a lot of material to remove. But if you don't remove some material from the side of the blade as you grind the edge back, you may find the knife not performing as well in deep cuts as it could.
Second, and a potentially bigger issue, is that the temper of the blade may not be consistent throughout. I use my knives fairly hard and tend to sharpen them away to nothing. I have found that usually it seems the steel gets softer as I get further back towards the spine of the blade. But it just means you have to sharpen it a little more often.
Bottom line, do what you need to to make the knife usefull for your purposes.
First, a concrete block is not the most efficient abrasive, it's going to take a while to do the job, and it will rough up the side of the blade a bit. But if you've got the time......and the scuffs can be polished out with sandpaper. The blade angle will become more obtuse as you grind unless you lay the blade almost flat on the block as you work. It's a lot of material to remove. But if you don't remove some material from the side of the blade as you grind the edge back, you may find the knife not performing as well in deep cuts as it could.
Second, and a potentially bigger issue, is that the temper of the blade may not be consistent throughout. I use my knives fairly hard and tend to sharpen them away to nothing. I have found that usually it seems the steel gets softer as I get further back towards the spine of the blade. But it just means you have to sharpen it a little more often.
Bottom line, do what you need to to make the knife usefull for your purposes.
Halfneck said:
I own a 3 inch sharpening stone, and I thought a longer, more abrasive cinder block or concrete slab would be more efficient.
Mahoney, thanks for the information. I had planned to grind it flat to the stone. The aesthetics and lack of resale won't bother me, as it's not selling in its current form and function takes priority over fashion for me. I'd imagine it will take some time doing it this way, because as you say it's a good amount of metal to remove. I won't really be able to compare the hardness very well because this is my first ATS55 blade, otherwise I'd formulate some sort of test so I could measure that and see if it's like the knives you've experienced.
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I wouldn't do it to a crap knife, let alone such a good one.
1) temper is more an issue that you seem to think. Of course you will stop regularly to prevent overheating (you will get tired and sore anyway) but that will not stop the overheating on the contact point. Best way around that would be an old abrasive wheel (don't know how they are called), the type that wheigh 20/30 lbs ans with water at the base: that should take care of temperatue issue. But still not of the temper one
2) as Mahoney mentioned, blade are differentially tempered. The closer to the spine, the softer the steel. Grind away the serrations, and you effectively grind away the hard steel.
That may not sound as bad as it actually is: if you use your knife, you'll end up with it being dull most of the time, and that is very frustrating (and dangerous).
3) That last comment was made assuming you managed to keep a decent profile on the edge, and that is not a given either. Especially if on top of that you want to reprofile the blade as a flat ground. I would only give that job to an expert (like if I had a friend sharpening the production knives at the Golden factory; I doubt very much he would accept, though).
4) the amount of time and energy it will take: my guess is 4 to 5 hours, assuming you do not polish the blade after :jerkit: .
My best advice (read: what I would do in the same situation as you have described, not some sort of patronising comment!)
Sell your knife on eBay if you can't find someone to trade it with.
Use said money to buy a plain edge Byrd
You will be left with both change and an excellent companion in your pocket.
You will have no blisters or scratches on your hands
You will have enjoyed skateboarding for at least 4 more hours
1) temper is more an issue that you seem to think. Of course you will stop regularly to prevent overheating (you will get tired and sore anyway) but that will not stop the overheating on the contact point. Best way around that would be an old abrasive wheel (don't know how they are called), the type that wheigh 20/30 lbs ans with water at the base: that should take care of temperatue issue. But still not of the temper one
2) as Mahoney mentioned, blade are differentially tempered. The closer to the spine, the softer the steel. Grind away the serrations, and you effectively grind away the hard steel.
That may not sound as bad as it actually is: if you use your knife, you'll end up with it being dull most of the time, and that is very frustrating (and dangerous).
3) That last comment was made assuming you managed to keep a decent profile on the edge, and that is not a given either. Especially if on top of that you want to reprofile the blade as a flat ground. I would only give that job to an expert (like if I had a friend sharpening the production knives at the Golden factory; I doubt very much he would accept, though).
4) the amount of time and energy it will take: my guess is 4 to 5 hours, assuming you do not polish the blade after :jerkit: .
My best advice (read: what I would do in the same situation as you have described, not some sort of patronising comment!)
Sell your knife on eBay if you can't find someone to trade it with.
Use said money to buy a plain edge Byrd
You will be left with both change and an excellent companion in your pocket.
You will have no blisters or scratches on your hands
You will have enjoyed skateboarding for at least 4 more hours
Excellent advice from Saint-Just. I picked up a Byrd G-10 Cara Cara recently for $18 (shipping included). Awsome knife! Nicer than some of the knives I have that cost 5 times as much. Even had some $$$ left over to buy a pair of "es" shoes for my skateboarder. Good Luck!
Vivi said:
It's not a problem if you use a course whetstone. You should reprofile the secondary back bevel to about 30 degrees total (15 per side) and the primary micro bevel to 40 degrees (20 per side).
I have a Spyderco Sharpmaker that makes sharpening serrated edges very quick and easy. You just use the edge of the triangular shaped rod and ride it in and out of the serrations slowly. Works like a charm. I find serrated knives tend to require less sharpening than plain edge knives.