Grinding question

Bama

Bama

Joined
May 1, 2009
Messages
450
When grinding the blade bevels Do you complete one side at a time or alternate till finished, just wondering how and why everyone elses does

Roll Tide!!! Anthony
 
Anthony,
I grind an initial 45 at the edge with an old belt to keep the sharp edge from shearing grit off of a new belt. Then I grind with my left hand using a hogger to get close to where I want to be then switch hands (I'm right handed so it's easier for me to match the grinds from my weak hand.) I do one side then the other as I move through the grits. So I guess I'm saying I grind one side, the other side then move up a grit. It's the way I was taught and also it's a lot easier to fix problems with both sides on the same grit, belts grind differently at different grits and also the grinding is a little different at higher grits. Clear as mud!

By the way.... so you're "Bama" and live in Texas.... what's up with that? Military?

Roooolllll Tide Roll!
 
i too cut in a 45 degree "edge" but i go back and forth onside to the other. i have foind that grindign thin stock that it will bend as ai grind from stress
both before HT and after HT
so for me i work both sides
 
Get a Fred Rowe bubble jig It will help you stay level when hang grinding you
can try free hand .I have been grinding 15years have always had touble with
weak side I got one it solve my problem.
Troy Brown
 
ooits not every pass that i swap sides but i dont do one then the other
i might work the grind up a 1/4 of the way then swap sides (sept for my razors)
 
I'm with Butch. I'll take one side up to a certain point, then get the other to that same point. That's how I used to do it before I had my grinder and just used files (luckily, that was only my first few knives), so it was just natural to continue like that. It's also helpful for me to do it like this because I get interrupted a lot it seems, and I find it easier to get back in the groove if both sides are relatively equal.
 
I kept the grinding faily even on both sides. It doesn't stress the steel as bad and chances are it won't warp in heat treat nearly as much. I got a lecture from Paul Bos about 25 years ago about not grinding one side to completion before starting the other side. Seems the blades I sent him warped badly. He also told me it was a new day and to quit pounding my name in the blade with a stamp, but to get an etching machine.;)
 
Troy Brown said:
Get a Fred Rowe bubble jig It will help you stay level when hang grinding you
can try free hand .I have been grinding 15years have always had touble with
weak side I got one it solve my problem.
Troy Brown
Click to expand...

I was glad you called and told me the jig helped you straighten out your grinds. Made my day.:thumbup:
Did that CD ever make it to your place?

Fred

It doesn't matter weather your a switcher or a grind one side first kind of guy. What counts is if the grinds are equal.
To produce equal and centered grinds:

I focus on the base of the shoulders, at the choil and the height of the grind line on either flat.
If your passes are the same on both sides of the blade, the same angle of approach, then you'll end up with a centered blade with equally dimensioned bevels clear to the tip.
It is easy enough to count passes on each side but it is a better indicator if you control the grind by watching the two variables; the choil and the grind line.

In order to get the plunges clean when first ground; you need to make sure the belt slightly overrides the side of the platen when the initial grind is done; do one side, shift the belt and do the other. Then center the belt on the platen and continue.

I grind using the jig I invented and only grind blades that are equally dimensioned. Its easy.:)
I gave up grinder dread years ago.:D


Happy grinding, Fred
 
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