Grinding tip struggle. (updated Pic)

Battle Creek Knives

Battle Creek Knives

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Feb 23, 2010
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trying to finish a scandi grind after heat treat..

first of all I may have left it a little thicker at the tip(before HT), but regardless when I pass the knife across the belt I'm happy with everything except getting the grinds even at the tip..

I've tried tilting the knife up, down and pulling away as I get closer to the tip..

I think this has got to be the biggest struggle yet, and I thought making a knives was easy:o

what is the best approach...??what am I missing (besides the point:D)?? btw, I'm using a 2x72..
 
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rob, i'll give you a ring later and give you some more tips but try slowing down the belt as slow as you can get it and not have it bog down. take your time and use light passes.
 
Make a simple jig and you will never look back. Put a fresh belt on.
 
+1 on the fresh belt, 50 grit is usually what I am using at this point. It sometimes helps to get the weak hand side ground first, then match it on the strong hand side where you have a bit more control. If all else fails you can go to hand sanding for fine tuning but this becomes a crutch if you don't come to grips with the issue on the grinder.
I have yet to see a jig that solves this problem. They can aid in maintaining the same bevel angle, which makes one less thing that can go wrong when you arc the tip, but you still have to make the arc itself by hand and eyeball.
 
Buy a Ronco Scandi-matic automatic scandi grinder. Takes any piece of steel and turns it into a razor sharp blade.

Watch as we take this ordinary butter knife and give it new life. One pass through the Scandi-matic and it will slice tomatoes flawlessly. Two passes and any surgeon would be proud to use it as a scalpel. Just look at it cut!!!! It's that easy and fast!

You'll find thousands of uses for Scand-matic around the house. You can use it to turn your screwdrivers into carving tools. Turn tin cans into hole punches. You can even use it to sharpen your cat's claws. He'll never lose another back alley fight!

You might think you'd have to pay hundreds of dollars for such convenience. But with this special offer you can get Scandi-matic for six easy payments of $19.95 (plus $79.95 shipping and processing).

But wait, there's more. Order now and we'll throw in all these extras:

* A free first aid kit, complete with 78 bandages, two rolls of gauze, 5 ounces of antibacterial ointment and a handy blood spatter mask
* Two boxes of nitrile golves
* And a special wall mount for your Scandi-matic to keep it out of the way when not in use

You get all this, and the satisfaction of knowing you can Scandi-grind anything, any time for only six easy payments of $19.95 (plus $79.95 shipping and processing).
 
Wow! What a deal! The first aid kit alone is worth that much!!! Ron Popeil must be going crazy!
 
What is wrong with a jig?..... I don't get it. Many good makers use them.... especially for Scandi grinds.

this config seems to get past the tip problem...

IMG_09y78_op_776x643.jpg

DozierGrinder0725-03.jpg
 
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rick, i never was much for using jigs to grind. i made an adjustable rest for my sander that would probably work great for scandi grinds but i have never used it. i learned how to grind freehand instead of relying on a jig. i'm not much for scandi grinds either but i have ground a few many years ago.
 
Well that sounds more reasonable than "real knifemakers don't use jigs" It is just a personal preference on your part. Some folks use jigs for grinding(even if just a tool rest for profiling), jigs for filing, sharpening, press jigs for forging, etc.... I don't see a problem, unless they are claiming otherwise. Making knives is supposed to be fun. We are supposed to be encouraging knifemakers... that is what Shop Talk is about.

Rick
 
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Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast.

Tips are just plain tricky. Jig or not, I think it just takes practice and patience. I would advise using up a bunch of mild or scrap steel, or even wooden paint stirrers and grinding a few dozen tips only until you find what works for you. By that I mean, just try to make a good tip profile and edge on the end... if it sucks, grind it back square and try again.
 
Yo....someone here dissin' jigs? :p

For me, James Terrio explains it the best. Just go slow and smooth.
 
Tony can scandi grind to closer tolerances using the simple jig (below) than ANY freehand operation.

Meet Tony:

octpm2011.jpg


IMG_1319.jpg
 

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I think the Scandi grind is a great candidate for a jig. The nature of the grind is simple with little room for individual interpretation outside of approach angles and stock thickness. I admire folks who can do it freehand but the Monkey is right.... It will never match the tolerances of a proper jig. I'm sure there are folks who can sharpen an iceskate freehand, too but a machine/jig can do it more accurately and consistantly.
 
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