griptilian complete bread down

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kalifornia

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Nov 14, 2013
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I went to a store today and handled three different grips, each ones axis felt alittle different, my question is can the studs you grip to unlock the blade be seperated from the lock bar- are they screwed onto the bar or are they milled out of one piece or welded etc. thank you
 
Never tried to unscrew them. I agree that some are much sharper than others.
 
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I found one thread but was inconclusive regarding the grip. BM has made the axis a couple of different ways. anyone know I'de appreciate it.
 
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The axis studs are most of the time screwed together, and loctited so they usually never come apart. The only exception that I know of that comes to mind is the 530, it has a one piece bar.

I would say that any difference in feel from one grip to another has nothing to do with the bar, they're usually a pretty tight tolerance. It's more likely differences in the plastic handles and how exactly the liners are sitting in them. If the liners sit out of parallel slightly, it can make a difference. Also, if coatings are involved, they almost always take a little more break in time.
 
Grips axis bars are screwed together.
Other BM models do have a solid axis bar as deathofallthings said.
There are many other factors that could explain the reason for a different feel.
Again, as deathofallthings said, the liners may not being parallel, coatings will make a difference or the liners edges are a little sharper on one more than another.
All duplicate pieces, are just that, duplicates. Not identical.
One piece was produce on Monday when the jaws and bits of the machinery were fresh and new.
The other on Friday the last day of production before doing a breakdown, cleaning, adjustment and set up for the next week.
 
I ask because I wiggled the different knives bars side to side and noticed different amounts of play. But what got me is they all bound up to a certain degree when I tried using just my thumb. The way I see it is if some shim stock could be inserted between the stud and liner it could smooth out the action.
 
I think you would find less binding the more the lock is cycled.
All the edges and rough spots would smooth out.
Break in period, again as deathofallthings said. ;)
 
"bread down"??? If you're asking how much money (bread) people have spent on Griptilians, well then, my answer would be quite a bit. I've owned many Griptilians in the last few years and will continue to purchase more.

If you meant "break down", than I can't answer that because the most that I've ever done is a blade swap. You can search "Camp Ritter" to see my post.

BTW, I know what you meant, I'm just having a little fun on a Friday night, no disrespect intended. ;)
 
I've got a new 551 and the axis lock appears to be one piece. I notice the same, it's not smooth with thumb only, and I suspect would be smoother if it were a little shorter. If it did unscrew I would definitely try to do a shim washer. I'm a little disappointed that my Grip isn't as smooth as the BMs I played with at the gun shop previously. I hope it breaks in better... blade at least is buttery smooth though.
 
Just had a thought, maybe a thin nylon washer with a slit cut in it with a razor blade? Don't know if it would catch on the liners if it rotated just so.
 
bread down haha goes to show never proof read your own stuff. N8N did you drop any oil on the axis yet? the cut washer could work but it would probably be easier with the bar removed which is easy. I can't really give any details since Im still not sure if Im gonna buy one. But its looking pretty good. I would disassemble and polish everything first and I'de put a thin layer of grease also I think the blade tang is real rough where the bar rides onto. check it out Ill be interested in your findings. also if you have two pliers see if those unscrew easily. another idea down the road would be if the studs unscrew you could file down the bar itself, of course that would bring the studs alittle more inboard which might not be good
 
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My grip was rough at first but after opening it tons of times over a month or so its now super smooth. When I first got it it was tough to open without pulling back on both sides of the axis lock and it would stick when flicked open with some force. Now I can easily pull back axis with just thumb and no longer sticks when flicking open.
 
Dude it just needs to break in. uncycled knives need to smooth out. My grip is a gravity knife. :thumbup:
 
kalifornia said:
bread down haha goes to show never proof read your own stuff. N8N did you drop any oil on the axis yet? the cut washer could work but it would probably be easier with the bar removed which is easy. I can't really give any details since Im still not sure if Im gonna buy one. But its looking pretty good. I would disassemble and polish everything first and I'de put a thin layer of grease also I think the blade tang is real rough where the bar rides onto. check it out Ill be interested in your findings. also if you have two pliers see if those unscrew easily. another idea down the road would be if the studs unscrew you could file down the bar itself, of course that would bring the studs alittle more inboard which might not be good
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Rough?! On all my axis lock's the tang is without a doubt the most polished part of the knife, I don't imagine there's much to gain, even going to a mirror polish. Infact polishing the tang would probabily have no effect if you didnt also polish the lock bar, and again it'd be so negligible it wouldn't be worth it.
 
I don't think it's the tang that's rough, it's the axis lock sliding on the liners that is causing the roughness, exacerbated by the axis lock being a mm or so wider than it needs to be so that it cocks sideways if you try to actuate it from one side. It's smooth if you pinch it w/ thumb and forefinger, but rough as a cob with thumb only.

Maybe this was a running design change for the worse? I swear that one of the grips that I looked at in the gun shop I took a close look at it and it looked like it had a torx recess in it to screw apart. Mine however does not. If it did come apart I would definitely either add a PB washer or just file the female side a little shorter to tighten it up.

Or do the ones that screw apart not actually have recesses for tools and you need to use e.g. shelf liner to grip them & unscrew? In which case I need to disassemble mine, warranty be damned.

I noticed the same roughness on the REI edition Grip and commented on it in that thread.
 
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Cereal_killer said:
Rough?! On all my axis lock's the tang is without a doubt the most polished part of the knife, I don't imagine there's much to gain, even going to a mirror polish. Infact polishing the tang would probabily have no effect if you didnt also polish the lock bar, and again it'd be so negligible it wouldn't be worth it.
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I think you're right afterall the bar only needs to pop off the tang,
 
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N8N said:
Or do the ones that screw apart not actually have recesses for tools and you need to use e.g. shelf liner to grip them & unscrew?.
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Fiirst get a 10x loop used to inspect diamonds, then pull the scales off both sides, then pull both springs and slide out the bar then inspect everything remove any burrs and do some light polishing. there a couple of utubes showing that process.
 
yeah, I already figured out how to remove the bar, I just haven't done it yet. Probably going to send it off to get an "enthusiast grade" sharpening first as I was a little disappointed in the out of the box sharpness and I have a couple other knives that need some TLC as well, and my sharpening skills can best be described as "adequate." No point in having a knife with "good" steel if it isn't sharp!
 
I'm sitting here playing with the Grip as I'm browsing various forums and putting off doing what I should be doing (paying bills, ugh) and it does feel like it's getting smoother.

FWIW when I got the knife it was a little rough all over and seemed like it had less oil in it than I'd seen on other "out of the box" knives. So I put a little 3-in-1 on all the moving parts and tweaked the pivot screw so it was as loose as possible without perceptible blade play. Still not really smooth. Played with it for a while like that, then *cleaned most of the oil out* and just left a little tiny hint of oil in the working bits and readjusted. Now other than the axis lock, it is fantabulously smooth and fast.
 
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